Jump to content
SAU Community

Power Fc For 260rs

stasis

By stasis,
in Four Door Family & Wagoneers

 Share

Recommended Posts

stasis Mentor

stasis

Posted
  • Author
Posted
R33 gtr would be my guess too.

check the plug when you get it, compared to r33 gtr pinouts and go from there.

i doubt they would use a different ecu/harness just for the stagea given it was an aftermarket modification to stageas by autech.

good idea to look at the pinouts when the car comes. I saw a greddy one for under A$600 in Japan looks good too but tis for a r32 and r33gtrs though

munchstagea Mentor

munchstagea

Posted
Posted
thanks guys. Then next question which brand and model? And average one that will do the job

A "Power FC" is an after market computer that is made by Apexi... there is only one brand of Power FC, if you are talking about other brands of AM computers then I think most people will point you back the the PFC anyway. I hope that helps... try this link seems like the go!

stasis Mentor

stasis

Posted
  • Author
Posted
A "Power FC" is an after market computer that is made by Apexi... there is only one brand of Power FC, if you are talking about other brands of AM computers then I think most people will point you back the the PFC anyway. I hope that helps... try this link seems like the go!

So "Power FC" is the model made by Apexi? Am i right? If thats the case how about othe FC brand? Which ones? Cos i cant read freaking Japanse from the freaking Hyper Rev mag. Cant read the specs

:/

CruiseLiner Mentor

CruiseLiner

Posted
Posted

theres 2 versions of the power fc and one is the air flow meter version and one gets rid of the air flow meters and uses 2 map sensors called the power fc djetro

the AFM'd version is fine for most power unless u are going totally insane and want over 500hp or so at the wheels, and even then the afm'd one is still fine.

djetro is $1600 all up with map sensors etc and normal power fc is about $980 or so

stasis Mentor

stasis

Posted
  • Author
Posted
theres 2 versions of the power fc and one is the air flow meter version and one gets rid of the air flow meters and uses 2 map sensors called the power fc djetro

the AFM'd version is fine for most power unless u are going totally insane and want over 500hp or so at the wheels, and even then the afm'd one is still fine.

djetro is $1600 all up with map sensors etc and normal power fc is about $980 or so

If thats the case i will opt for the one w/o the air flow meter then. Which brand though? Hks?

CruiseLiner Mentor

CruiseLiner

Posted
Posted

its an apexi power fc djetro (non afm'd version) and its like the m800 ecu is a motec and the smc4 is an autronic, and mtx12 is a microtech

power fc is one specific ecu (well 2 versions as i said earlier) by apexi and nuthin to do with the name of aftermarket ecu's in any other brand.

hks make an f con pro ecu but they are not good because no one tunes them except one shop in Oz i think from memory

afm'd power fc is much much easier to tune and comes with a base map to start tuning from where as the djetro is a start from scratch ecu and requires a good 3-4 hours tuning just to get the engine even running.

sydneykid reccomends the afm'd version in every application due to cheaper price and easier/cheaper tuning.

ive actually got a gtr power fc djetro sitting in the box brand new in my room waiting to go on my stagea in the future once i put the other engine setup in :thumbsup:

plenty of over 500hp cars and one 890hp gtr is running a djetro in WA so they are pretty good ecu's :/

just remember over 500hp reliably in a stagea is gonna cost over 20k just in mods easy! thats engine rebuild time if u want it to last as plenty are blowing pistons and the like with that sort of power.

around 450hp is the cheapest and stock engine should last a fair while on that power level.

so what im saying is its best to use the afm'd version in 99.9% of cases, and even the vmax apexi drag gtr that runs 8 seconds still runs afm's.

stasis Mentor

stasis

Posted
  • Author
Posted
its an apexi power fc djetro (non afm'd version) and its like the m800 ecu is a motec and the smc4 is an autronic, and mtx12 is a microtech

power fc is one specific ecu (well 2 versions as i said earlier) by apexi and nuthin to do with the name of aftermarket ecu's in any other brand.

hks make an f con pro ecu but they are not good because no one tunes them except one shop in Oz i think from memory

afm'd power fc is much much easier to tune and comes with a base map to start tuning from where as the djetro is a start from scratch ecu and requires a good 3-4 hours tuning just to get the engine even running.

sydneykid reccomends the afm'd version in every application due to cheaper price and easier/cheaper tuning.

ive actually got a gtr power fc djetro sitting in the box brand new in my room waiting to go on my stagea in the future once i put the other engine setup in :D

plenty of over 500hp cars and one 890hp gtr is running a djetro in WA so they are pretty good ecu's :D

just remember over 500hp reliably in a stagea is gonna cost over 20k just in mods easy! thats engine rebuild time if u want it to last as plenty are blowing pistons and the like with that sort of power.

around 450hp is the cheapest and stock engine should last a fair while on that power level.

so what im saying is its best to use the afm'd version in 99.9% of cases, and even the vmax apexi drag gtr that runs 8 seconds still runs afm's.

Thanks cruiseliner for clariying the terms. I think i will be getting the power Fc commander.

Thanks again

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • PranK
      My BMW E39 528i touring

      By PranK · Posted

      Thanks for that, I'll check it all out. I can always do the brakes last anyway if its a problem.  The 16's are super cool, if they do fit I'll cruise around with them for a bit.  
    • GTSBoy
      My BMW E39 528i touring

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Well, that's kinda the point. The calipers might interfere with the inside of the barrels 16" rims are only about 14" inside the barrels, which is ~350mm, and 334mm rotors only leave about 8mm outboard for the caliper before you get to 350, And.... that;s not gunna be enough. If the rims have a larger ID than that, you might sneak it in. I'd be putting a measuring stick inside the wheel and eyeballing the extra required for the caliper outboard of the rotor before committing to bolting it all on.
    • Duncan
      Neil's R33 Gts-t Build

      By Duncan · Posted

      OK, so again it has been a bit of a break but it was around researching what had been done since I didn't have access to Neil's records and not everything is obvious without pulling stuff apart. Happily the guy who assembled the engine had kept reasonable records, so we now know the final spec is: Bottom end: Standard block and crank Ross 86.5mm forgies, 9:1 compression Spool forged rods Standard main bolts Oil pump Spool billet gears in standard housing Aeroflow extended and baffled sump Head Freshly rebuilt standard head with new 80lb valve springs Mild porting/port match Head oil feed restrictor VCT disabled Tighe 805C reground cams (255 duration, 8.93 lift)  Adjustable cam gears on inlet/exhaust Standard head bolts, gasket not confirmed but assumed MLS External 555cc Nismo injectors Z32 AFM Bosch 023 Intank fuel pump Garret 2871 (factory housings and manifold) Hypertune FFP plenum with standard throttle   Time to book in a trip to Unigroup
    • PranK
      My BMW E39 528i touring

      By PranK · Posted

      I forgot about my shiny new plates!
    • PranK
      My BMW E39 528i touring

      By PranK · Posted

      Well, apparently they do fit, however this wont be a problem if not because the car will be stationary while i do the suspension work. I was just going to use the 16's to roll the old girl around if I needed to. I just need to get the E90 back on the road first. Yes! I'm a believer! 🙌 So, I contacted them because the site kinda sucks and I was really confused about what I'd need. They put together a package for me and because I was spraying all the seat surfaces and not doing spot fixes I decided not to send them a headrest to colour match, I just used their colour on file (and it was spot on).  I got some heavy duty cleaner, 1L of colour, a small bottle of dye hardener and a small bottle of the dye top coat. I also got a spray gun as I needed a larger nozzle than the gun I had and it was only $40 extra. From memory the total was ~$450 ish. Its not cheap but the result is awesome. They did add repair bits and pieces to the quote originally and the cost came down significantly when I said I didn't need any repair products. I did it over a weekend. The only issues I had were my own; I forgot to mix the hardener into the dye two coats but I had enough dye for 2 more coats with the hardener. I also just used up all the dye because why not and i rushed the last coat which gave me some runs. Thankfully the runs are under the headrests. The gun pattern wasn't great, very round and would have been better if it was a line. It made it a little tricky to get consistent coverage and I think having done the extra coats probably helped conceal any coverage issues. I contacted them again a few months later so I could get our X5 done (who the f**k thought white leather was a good idea for a family car?!) and they said they had some training to do in Sydney and I could get a reduced rate on the leather fix in the X5 if I let them demo their product on our car. So I agreed. When I took Bec in the E39 to pick it up, I showed them the job I'd done in my car and they were all (students included) really impressed. Note that they said the runs I created could be fixed easily at the time with a brush or an air compressor gun. So, now with the two cars done I can absolutely recommend Colourlock.  I'll take pics of both interiors and create a new thread.
×
×
  • Create New...