Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey ok here goes ill try explain best i can what problem im getting

sunday just gone i was driving along and my fuel pump died and car stalled

so i order a new walbro intank pump, i got the pump yesterday and we attempted at installing it

which i thought we done a alrite job, we wired in a new relay aswell with new wiring, but what was

strange was before we started wiring the pump in, we could not get power to the 2 pin plug at ALL which

left me and my mate stuffed, then 15mins later havnt done anything we get power, then 5mins later no

power again and again and again, we had no idea what was happening, anyway we thought stuff it and

put it all back together and started wiring in the new relay, we run a power wire straight from the battery > relay,a

earth from relay straight to the battery,a earth to relay then earth 2 chassis from the pump and a power wire to the relay from the

pump, now the pump flows constantly while car is running, just before driving home from work, car decided

to stall 3 times just conk out instantly,i pulled over the side of the road and tried crankin the car over and

over but it wouldnt start,the pump was priming,eventually after about 10 x at kicking it over it started and i

noticed that the pump DID not prime the time it started, wat im wanting to know is, is the stock fuel

regulator having a heart attack with a constant flow of fuel? im scared 2 drive the car incase i stall at set of

lights and spend next 5mins trying to get it to start again :( also the way we wired up the relay does this

sound right to you all? who have exp putting a new pump in. hope u guys can help me out cheers

Justin

Edited by l0WRB
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/124961-need-help-with-my-r33-guys/
Share on other sites

the fuel regulator will be fine with the flow, it will just return any unused fuel back to the pump return line. have you checked for other obvious causes of stalling (it might not be the pump). stock ecu diag would help. also check airflow meter and plug

the fuel regulator will be fine with the flow, it will just return any unused fuel back to the pump return line. have you checked for other obvious causes of stalling (it might not be the pump). stock ecu diag would help. also check airflow meter and plug

do i just turn on the car and kick it over and take the ecu outta kick panel will it have lights if its showing any errors? ive just recently cleaned the idle valve thing on back of plenum like it says in the DIY section, fixed my idle but now im worried about the car just dieing in the middle of driving :(

do i just turn on the car and kick it over and take the ecu outta kick panel will it have lights if its showing any errors? ive just recently cleaned the idle valve thing on back of plenum like it says in the DIY section, fixed my idle but now im worried about the car just dieing in the middle of driving :(

Sure you put the hoses etc back on properly? Could be a leak in there. Double check everything you touched first. Then check the AFM is plugged in (although the ECU diag will tell you that).

Sure you put the hoses etc back on properly? Could be a leak in there. Double check everything you touched first. Then check the AFM is plugged in (although the ECU diag will tell you that).

yep i checked all hoses and there all on there fine, i cannot hear a vacum leak at all, when car is idling fuel regulator is screaming! because fuel pump is pushing constant fuel to it, swear this cant be good? should i upgrade the fuel reg? maybe the reg is over working itself then shutting down therefor stallin the car, then when i prime it more it finally kicks over?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi guys . Can someone help me  I bought an Android screen for my Nissan fuga but it won't turn on   
    • My guesstimate, with no real numbers to back it up, is it won't effect it greatly at all.its not a huge change in position, and I can't see the air flow changing from in turbulence that much based on distance, and what's in front of it. Johnny and Brad may have some more numbers to share from experience though.
    • Which solenoid? Why was it changed? Again, why was this done? ...well, these wear..but ultimately, why was it changed? Did you reset the idle voltage level after fitment? I'm just a tad confused ~ the flash code doesn't allude to these items being faulty, so in my mind the only reason to change these things, would be some drive-ability issue....and if that's the case, what was the problem? Those questions aside, check if the dropping resistor is OK ...should be 11~14 ohms (TCU doesn't throw a flash code for this) ~ also, these TCU designs have full time power (to keep fault code RAM alive), and I think that'll throw a logic code (as opposed to the 10 hardware codes), if that power is missing (or the ram has gone bad in the TCU, which you can check..but that's another story here perhaps).
    • Question for people who "know stuff" I am looking at doing the new intake like the one in the picture (the pictured is designed for the OEM TB and intake plenum), this design has the filter behind the front bar, but, the filter sits where the OEM duct heads into the front bar, and the standard aperture when the OEM ducting is removed allows the filter to pulled back out of the front bar into the engine bay for servicing, a simple blanking plate is used to seal the aperture behind the filter This will require a 45° silicone hose from the TB, like the alloy pipe that is currently there, to another 45° silicone hose to get a straight run to the aperture in the front bar Question: how will it effect the tune if I move the MAF about 100-150mm forward, the red is around where my MAF is currently, and the green would be where it would end up Like this This is the hole the filter goes through  Ends up like this LOL..Cheers    
    • Despite the level up question, actually I do know what that is....it is a pressure sender wire.  So check out around the oil filter for an oil pressure sender, or maybe fuel pressure near the filter or on the engine. Possibly but less likely coolant pressure sensor because they tend to be combined temp/pressure senders if you have one. Could also be brake pressure (in a brake line somewhere pre ABS) but maybe I'm the only one that has that on a skyline.
×
×
  • Create New...