Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Fate has forced my hand! The R32 just blew its turbo so R33 wheel studs need to be fixed so I can drive it while the R32 gets its upgrades done!

Does anyone have any useful advice for me on how to do this?? Or does anyone want to come and help me do it on Saturday afternoon? Rewards of course will be offered for the helpers :D Thanks guys

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/125048-stripped-wheel-studs-on-my-r33/
Share on other sites

1. Take wheel off

2. Take caliper off disc

3. take disc off

4. get big hammer

5. belt old stud out

6. slide new stud in from behind

7. use old stripped stud as a punch to push new stud in (or alternatively get a rattle gun and do up a wheel nut onto the new stud to pull it through)

8. put disc back on

9. put caliper back on disc

10. put wheel back on

11. ????

12. Profit

Where do I buy the new studs from??

Jason there is alcoholic rewards if you come help me :D

try repco they will normally have a range of wheel studs...

i got mine from option1garage over @ hamilton (although i have slightly longer ones 70mm i think)

make sure you get ones with the correct spline, as you'll have a mission of a time bashing them in, or drilling bigger holes etc...

the rattle gun method Azzura mentioned is good, just make sure you dont over tighten and end up ruining your thread as a fair bit of heat is generated. a rubber mallet is also handy - dont know when i used it but i know i used it heaps. after you've replaced the studs remember to periodically tighten up your bolt nuts as they settle in.

not a big job, just time consuming ;)

good luck

try repco they will normally have a range of wheel studs...

i got mine from option1garage over @ hamilton (although i have slightly longer ones 70mm i think)

make sure you get ones with the correct spline, as you'll have a mission of a time bashing them in, or drilling bigger holes etc...

the rattle gun method Azzura mentioned is good, just make sure you dont over tighten and end up ruining your thread as a fair bit of heat is generated. a rubber mallet is also handy - dont know when i used it but i know i used it heaps. after you've replaced the studs remember to periodically tighten up your bolt nuts as they settle in.

not a big job, just time consuming ;)

good luck

Yeah don't try to put a front stud in the rear hub, and waste two hours of your time before you realise that they are actually different!!! Like I did at the track day!! :D

Studs are only about $5 each... Once you know how its pretty easy - like anything I guess.

You dont HAVE to use a rattle gun, but it makes it much easier.. You will have to pack the wheels stud up with washers or a big nut so that you can wind the nut onto the stud without running out of thread on the nut. I hope that makes sense?

i'm happy to help out Andy.

I got my wheel stud from Nissan, as they are the same as R32 GTR ones.

was cheap as chips... think it was like $7 or something

don't know if they'd have R33 ones though, or if they're the same etc (though one would assume they would be?)

Yeah don't try to put a front stud in the rear hub, and waste two hours of your time before you realise that they are actually different!!! Like I did at the track day!! :D

Oh dears! I was wondering what you were gonna do! I felt so bad for ya too, you were having an awesome run!

Hey Andy,

You got my number, gimmie a call if you need a hand. I am but 5 mins from your house.

Thanks mate ;)

Yeah don't try to put a front stud in the rear hub, and waste two hours of your time before you realise that they are actually different!!! Like I did at the track day!! :D

Studs are only about $5 each... Once you know how its pretty easy - like anything I guess.

You dont HAVE to use a rattle gun, but it makes it much easier.. You will have to pack the wheels stud up with washers or a big nut so that you can wind the nut onto the stud without running out of thread on the nut. I hope that makes sense?

I should have watched you fix that!! By the way....Watching your car on the track got my mouth watering, gave me a preview of my engines future :)

i'm happy to help out Andy.

I got my wheel stud from Nissan, as they are the same as R32 GTR ones.

was cheap as chips... think it was like $7 or something

don't know if they'd have R33 ones though, or if they're the same etc (though one would assume they would be?)

Thanks mate! ill give you a call later in the week??

I should have watched you fix that!! By the way....Watching your car on the track got my mouth watering, gave me a preview of my engines future :D

Hehe yeah, if only you were psychic and knew you were going to need to know how to do it! ;)

I can promise that you wont be disappointed with the turbo! :)

Hehe yeah, if only you were psychic and knew you were going to need to know how to do it! :D

I can promise that you wont be disappointed with the turbo! ;)

I knew at the time that it needed doing...I just didnt know that is what you were up too!!!!

we can have "comparisons" at EC in October Woooooot

if you need to know details of the studs that are required check out the www.niceproducts.com.au website - all the info you need is there

I am having mine replaced, but the biggest problem has been finding wheel nuts to suit my mags ..

A workshop told me it's only a 20 minute job to preplace all studs to both rear wheels .. sounds like the easy option to me

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I would just put EBC back on the "I would not use their stuff" pile and move on.
    • Can I suggest you try EBC directly again and link them to as many competitor catalogues as you can to show their listing is incorrect, eg https://dba.com.au/product/front-4000-series-hd-brake-rotor-dba42304/ If you have access to an R33 GTST VIN and your VIN, you could also use a Nissan Parts lookup like Amayama to show them the part number is different between 33 GTST and 34 GTT which may get their attention
    • So i got reply from EBC and they just this site where you can clearly see those 296mm fronts on R34 GTT. I send them photos and "quotes" that 296mm are not for 34 GTT and they are too small. But it will be very hard to return them cuz nobody here knows 100% and they just copy those EBC catalogue :-D https://ebcbrakesdirect.com/automotive/nissan/skyline-r34
    • Hi, is the HKS  Tower Bar still available ? negotiable ? 🤔
    • From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
×
×
  • Create New...