Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi guys

I have a 95 GTST Auto (boo I hear you say)

It's a daily driver, but I am keen to draw some cheap (ish) power from it.

I have decided to go with the usual bleed valve (along with a gauge so I don't fry the donk) boost it to around 10 psi.

What would be the next step? Is there any point in getting a 3" dump pipe - but connect it up to the std exhaust?

I have heard that the hotter gases need more room to move, so going from 3" to 2.25 (or whatever the std is) maye not cause the restriction?

Any thoughts on this?

Cheers,

Brett

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/12514-my-first-upgrades/
Share on other sites

Deffinetly from here you would go with:

* A'Pexi / HKS Pod Filter

* Pod Filter Box with a cold air feed (also so u dont get a yellow canary)

* FULL Exhaust system

That will add around 10-15% more power instantly. It will also make your car sound alittle nicer.

This'll cost you in the low $1300-1500.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/12514-my-first-upgrades/#findComment-228146
Share on other sites

*Full zorst (not real cheap but, very good for $$$). +20HP @ motor.

*Bleeder valve set to 10psi

* K&N panel filter in the std airbox (no defects and just as good as a partitioned pod filter for power). +5HP @ motor.

* Remove the panel behind the stock intercooler for better air flow.

* thermal cover the 'hot pipe' from the turbo to the intercooler. And wrap the new dump pipe in thermal tape.

Yes there is a point to doing the dump pipe first even if it's a 3 inch dump into a 2.25 inch std pipe. You can always do the rest of the zorst later when you have the money.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/12514-my-first-upgrades/#findComment-228198
Share on other sites

Hi Guys...

this is my first reply to any forum...(be nice)

I've JUST got a full stainless 3 inch system off the turbo on my totally stock R33 - besides a K&N filter element change.

Bottom line...I think its loud and can get really annoying when sitting in traffic with people staring at you and closing their windows...

I didn't realise I would lose so much of my subtleness by upgrading my exhaust...

All of the boyz love the sound of it, but its not really my thing...

is there something I can put on it to keep the low end bass note down ???

Its got a hot dog and a straight through muffler...

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/12514-my-first-upgrades/#findComment-233694
Share on other sites

I have a 3.5inch dump which narrows to 3inches (Exhaust Technology) just before the 3inch cat, then through the first then the second muffler and out the tip (3inch stainless cat back, JASMA). This system is quiet and has a nice low humming sound to it at idle. I have heard other systems (on GTS25t's) which have a loud crackly sound.

The other day as i got out of my car i actually had someone come up to me and comment how nice and quiet it was. Obviously he had heard a lot of loud and crackly skylines aswell. What i am trying to get at here is go the twin muffler system (in series) since it is much more comfortable on the ears and the canary collection. I should know i used to have a RX7 ser3 with 12A (large carby) and an almost straight through 2.5inch press bend exhaust. I still get a headache thinking about the loud crackling sound it made when revved.

You should easily be able to pick up a Jasma cat back unit cheap and then take it to an exhaust place and get them to make up a mild steel dump pipe.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/12514-my-first-upgrades/#findComment-235305
Share on other sites

I've had it for a few days now and have had non stop headaches...

I have had to change my whole driving standard to make the revs stay out of the 2.5-3.5K RPM rev range, as this is when the constant bass of it gets to me...

I am interested in a cheap mod to minimise this or even better - eliminate it...without spending much more money, nor with going backwards too far...

any suggestions would be appreciated...

Am thinking about adding something in the straight piping between the cat and the straight-through resonator...it would seem to be the place to add something - but I haven't checked for room in an under-body cavity yet...

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/12514-my-first-upgrades/#findComment-236480
Share on other sites

How can u tell if u have an aftermarket front/pipe. My car is extremly loud at idle, (only cat and rear muffler), and my reasoning is that theres only a rear muffler. What is the diameter of the stock front pipe, or has anyone got a photo of it so i can compare mine to the stock one.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/12514-my-first-upgrades/#findComment-237163
Share on other sites

Guest Sir Bean

EnricoPalazzo and others.

The material of the exhaust HAS signifiance to the sound an exhaust makes.

I have had experience with exhaust systems in V8s and turbo vehicles, and the difference in most cases is very noticable.

Stainless tends to exude a more metallic sound, whereas mild steel tends to create a more rounded sound.

This is due to the inherent resonance of the material and the way sound waves are reflected and absorbed by the material.

I know it is difficult to describe noices like these, but those who know the difference will understand. Others will have to use their imagination.

My descriptions of the noises may be wrong to some, but the fact remains that stainless steel and mild steel generate different sounds in an exhaust system.

Bean.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/12514-my-first-upgrades/#findComment-237483
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • perhaps i should have mentioned, I plugged the unit in before i handed over to the electronics repair shop to see what damaged had been caused and the unit worked (ac controls, rear demister etc) bar the lights behind the lcd. i would assume that the diode was only to control lighting and didnt harm anything else i got the unit back from the electronics repair shop and all is well (to a point). The lights are back on and ac controls are working. im still paranoid as i beleive the repairer just put in any zener diode he could find and admitted asking chatgpt if its compatible   i do however have another issue... sometimes when i turn the ignition on, the climate control unit now goes through a diagnostics procedure which normally occurs when you disconnect and reconnect but this may be due to the below   to top everything off, and feel free to shoot me as im just about to do it myself anyway, while i was checking the newly repaired board by plugging in the climate control unit bare without the housing, i believe i may have shorted it on the headunit surround. Climate control unit still works but now the keyless entry doesnt work along with the dome light not turning on when you open the door. to add to this tricky situation, when you start the car and remove the key ( i have a turbo timer so car remains on) the keyless entry works. the dome light also works when you switch to the on position. fuses were checked and all ok ive deduced that the short somehow has messed with the smart entry control module as that is what controls the keyless entry and dome light on door opening   you guys wouldnt happen to have any experience with that topic lmao... im only laughing as its all i can do right now my self diagnosed adhd always gets me in a situation as i have no patience and want to get everything done in shortest amount of time as possible often ignoring crucial steps such as disconnecting battery when stuffing around with electronics or even placing a simple rag over the metallic headunit surround when placing a live pcb board on top of it   FML
    • Bit of a pity we don't have good images of the back/front of the PCB ~ that said, I found a YT vid of a teardown to replace dicky clock switches, and got enough of a glimpse to realize this PCB is the front-end to a connected to what I'll call PCBA, and as such this is all digital on this PCB..ergo, battery voltage probably doesn't make an appearance here ; that is, I'd expect them to do something on PCBA wrt power conditioning for the adjustment/display/switch PCB.... ....given what's transpired..ie; some permutation of 12vdc on a 5vdc with or without correct polarity...would explain why the zener said "no" and exploded. The transistor Q5 (M33) is likely to be a digital switching transistor...that is, package has builtin bias resistors to ensure it saturates as soon as base threshold voltage is reached (minimal rise/fall time)....and wrt the question 'what else could've fried?' ....well, I know there's an MCU on this board (display, I/O at a guess), and you hope they isolated it from this scenario...I got my crayons out, it looks a bit like this...   ...not a lot to see, or rather, everything you'd like to see disappears down a via to the other side...base drive for the transistor comes from somewhere else, what this transistor is switching is somewhere else...but the zener circuit is exclusive to all this ~ it's providing a set voltage (current limited by the 1K3 resistor R19)...and disappears somewhere else down the via I marked V out ; if the errant voltage 'jumped' the diode in the millisecond before it exploded, whatever that V out via feeds may have seen a spike... ....I'll just imagine that Q5 was switched off at the time, thus no damage should've been done....but whatever that zener feeds has to be checked... HTH
    • I think Fitmit had some, have a look on there (theyre Australian as well)
    • Hah, fair enough! But if you learn with this one you can drive any other OEM manual. No modern luxury features like auto rev-matching or hillstart assist to give you a false sense of confidence. And a heavy car with not that much torque so it stalls easily. 
×
×
  • Create New...