Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys and girls :D

Just wondering if anyone has pics of their, or anyone elses R34 Gtt's engine bay with FMIC cooler pipes installed. I'm getting mine done next week and i'm just wondering about the stock air box and air intake pipe. I am guesing they are no longer usable due to the pipes being too big and thus the air intake pipe being unsuable, which in turn stops the airbox getting an air feed. So i am thinking i will have to go for a pod with a head sheild or something, but thought perhaps someone had found a way to use the stock air box.

I'm after pics of either of these set ups, FMIC pipes and still using the airbox (and perhaps the air feed), or with a pod filter set up (with a heat sheild/box, or however you have done it).

Sean

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/125379-engine-bay-pic-of-r34s-with-fmic/
Share on other sites

i think satanic has a pic of a 34 with the fmic pipe going around the neo cover and the stock air feed. what you'll need to do is modify the air feed that goes to your airbox to go around the piping (by chopping about 2 inches from it). depending on the kit the neo cover needs to be sliced a little too.. but it's not too noticable.

someone on sau has posted a stagea with the piping all nice a neat in the engine bay.. it should be the same for the 34.

:P Just trying to help you out buddy.

But I'd think long and hard about it, as you'll save yourself a whole deal of trouble, unless you're aiming for say 300+RWKW i can't see the point. All you'll probably do is introduce reduced throttle response. Plus you can get your extra pipes when you rip out the air-box.

However, I realise not all mods are done for purely logically reasons, if you've got your heart set on shiney new pipes thats ok too. :D But just so long as you're aware of the situation.

yeah ive got pics of a r34 install. used a blitz intercooler. just look in my gallery. imho, thats the best bet cause cross over pipe = headache fabrication to the structure of the car/pipes itself. let me know if you need any help etc etc

search forums, there is a thread on the use/benefits (if any) of pvc as intercooler piping that goes on for pages and pages.

that nots not what your asking, if your doing custom fabrication then what the issue? hence 'custom'

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • For once a good news  It needed to be adjusted by that one nut and it is ok  At least something was easy But thank you very much for help. But a small issue is now(gearbox) that when the car is stationary you can hear "clinking" from gearbox so some of the bearing is 100% not that happy... It goes away once you push clutch so it is 100% gearbox. Just if you know...what that bearing could be? It sounding like "spun bearing" but it is louder.
    • Yeah, that's fine**. But the numbers you came up with are just wrong. Try it for yourself. Put in any voltage from the possible range and see what result you get. You get nonsense. ** When I say "fine", I mean, it's still shit. The very simple linear formula (slope & intercept) is shit for a sensor with a non-linear response. This is the curve, from your data above. Look at the CURVE! It's only really linear between about 30 and 90 °C. And if you used only that range to define a curve, it would be great. But you would go more and more wrong as you went to higher temps. And that is why the slope & intercept found when you use 50 and 150 as the end points is so bad halfway between those points. The real curve is a long way below the linear curve which just zips straight between the end points, like this one. You could probably use the same slope and a lower intercept, to move that straight line down, and spread the error out. But you would 5-10°C off in a lot of places. You'd need to say what temperature range you really wanted to be most right - say, 100 to 130, and plop the line closest to teh real curve in that region, which would make it quite wrong down at the lower temperatures. Let me just say that HPTuners are not being realistic in only allowing for a simple linear curve. 
    • I feel I should re-iterate. The above picture is the only option available in the software and the blurb from HP Tuners I quoted earlier is the only way to add data to it and that's the description they offer as to how to figure it out. The only fields available is the blank box after (Input/ ) and the box right before = Output. Those are the only numbers that can be entered.
    • No, your formula is arse backwards. Mine is totally different to yours, and is the one I said was bang on at 50 and 150. I'll put your data into Excel (actually it already is, chart it and fit a linear fit to it, aiming to make it evenly wrong across the whole span. But not now. Other things to do first.
    • God damnit. The only option I actually have in the software is the one that is screenshotted. I am glad that I at least got it right... for those two points. Would it actually change anything if I chose/used 80C and 120C as the two points instead? My brain wants to imagine the formula put into HPtuners would be the same equation, otherwise none of this makes sense to me, unless: 1) The formula you put into VCM Scanner/HPTuners is always linear 2) The two points/input pairs are only arbitrary to choose (as the documentation implies) IF the actual scaling of the sensor is linear. then 3) If the scaling is not linear, the two points you choose matter a great deal, because the formula will draw a line between those two points only.
×
×
  • Create New...