Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys and girls :D

Just wondering if anyone has pics of their, or anyone elses R34 Gtt's engine bay with FMIC cooler pipes installed. I'm getting mine done next week and i'm just wondering about the stock air box and air intake pipe. I am guesing they are no longer usable due to the pipes being too big and thus the air intake pipe being unsuable, which in turn stops the airbox getting an air feed. So i am thinking i will have to go for a pod with a head sheild or something, but thought perhaps someone had found a way to use the stock air box.

I'm after pics of either of these set ups, FMIC pipes and still using the airbox (and perhaps the air feed), or with a pod filter set up (with a heat sheild/box, or however you have done it).

Sean

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/125379-engine-bay-pic-of-r34s-with-fmic/
Share on other sites

i think satanic has a pic of a 34 with the fmic pipe going around the neo cover and the stock air feed. what you'll need to do is modify the air feed that goes to your airbox to go around the piping (by chopping about 2 inches from it). depending on the kit the neo cover needs to be sliced a little too.. but it's not too noticable.

someone on sau has posted a stagea with the piping all nice a neat in the engine bay.. it should be the same for the 34.

:P Just trying to help you out buddy.

But I'd think long and hard about it, as you'll save yourself a whole deal of trouble, unless you're aiming for say 300+RWKW i can't see the point. All you'll probably do is introduce reduced throttle response. Plus you can get your extra pipes when you rip out the air-box.

However, I realise not all mods are done for purely logically reasons, if you've got your heart set on shiney new pipes thats ok too. :D But just so long as you're aware of the situation.

yeah ive got pics of a r34 install. used a blitz intercooler. just look in my gallery. imho, thats the best bet cause cross over pipe = headache fabrication to the structure of the car/pipes itself. let me know if you need any help etc etc

search forums, there is a thread on the use/benefits (if any) of pvc as intercooler piping that goes on for pages and pages.

that nots not what your asking, if your doing custom fabrication then what the issue? hence 'custom'

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The oil pressure sensor for logging, does it happen to be the one that was slowly breaking out of the oil block? If it is,I would be ignoring your logs. You had a leak at the sensor which would mean it can't read accurately. It's a small hole at the sensor, and you had a small hole just before it, meaning you could have lost significant pressure reading.   As for brakes, if it's just fluid getting old, you won't necessarily end up with air sitting in the line. Bleed a shit tonne of fluid through so you effectively replace it and go again. Oh and, pay close attention to the pressure gauge while on track!
    • I don't know it is due to that. It could just be due to load on track being more than a dyno. But it would be nice to rule it out. We're talking a fraction of a second of pulling ~1 degree of timing. So it's not a lot, but I'd rather it be 0... Thicker oil isn't really a "bandaid" if it's oil that is going to run at 125C, is it? It will be thicker at 100 and thus at 125, where the 40 weight may not be as thick as one may like for that use. I already have a big pump that has been ported. They (They in this instance being the guy that built my heads) port them so they flow more at lower RPM but have a bypass spring that I believe is ~70psi. I have seen 70psi of oil pressure up top in the past, before I knew I had this leak. I have a 25 row oil cooler that takes up all the space in the driver side guard. It is interesting that GM themselves recommend 0-30 oil for their Vette applications. Unless you take it to the track where the official word is to put 20-50w oil in there, then take that back out after your track day is done and return to 0-30.
    • Nice, looks great. Nice work getting the factory parts also. Never know when you'll need them.
    • Thanks @jtha7 I will have a look around tomorrow but it is a prick of a spot. These are some photos i tried taking 
    • I take it that the knock retard is from bearings tapping a little tune? Thicker oil is a fragile bandaid. You need a much bigger oil cooler and probably the bigger pump being discussed.
×
×
  • Create New...