Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys and girls :D

Just wondering if anyone has pics of their, or anyone elses R34 Gtt's engine bay with FMIC cooler pipes installed. I'm getting mine done next week and i'm just wondering about the stock air box and air intake pipe. I am guesing they are no longer usable due to the pipes being too big and thus the air intake pipe being unsuable, which in turn stops the airbox getting an air feed. So i am thinking i will have to go for a pod with a head sheild or something, but thought perhaps someone had found a way to use the stock air box.

I'm after pics of either of these set ups, FMIC pipes and still using the airbox (and perhaps the air feed), or with a pod filter set up (with a heat sheild/box, or however you have done it).

Sean

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/125379-engine-bay-pic-of-r34s-with-fmic/
Share on other sites

i think satanic has a pic of a 34 with the fmic pipe going around the neo cover and the stock air feed. what you'll need to do is modify the air feed that goes to your airbox to go around the piping (by chopping about 2 inches from it). depending on the kit the neo cover needs to be sliced a little too.. but it's not too noticable.

someone on sau has posted a stagea with the piping all nice a neat in the engine bay.. it should be the same for the 34.

:P Just trying to help you out buddy.

But I'd think long and hard about it, as you'll save yourself a whole deal of trouble, unless you're aiming for say 300+RWKW i can't see the point. All you'll probably do is introduce reduced throttle response. Plus you can get your extra pipes when you rip out the air-box.

However, I realise not all mods are done for purely logically reasons, if you've got your heart set on shiney new pipes thats ok too. :D But just so long as you're aware of the situation.

yeah ive got pics of a r34 install. used a blitz intercooler. just look in my gallery. imho, thats the best bet cause cross over pipe = headache fabrication to the structure of the car/pipes itself. let me know if you need any help etc etc

search forums, there is a thread on the use/benefits (if any) of pvc as intercooler piping that goes on for pages and pages.

that nots not what your asking, if your doing custom fabrication then what the issue? hence 'custom'

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I've never played with one, but I would expect that you are correct. That slot looks like it is intended to be used to unscrew the end, and the flats on the body would be better than grabbing it around the round bit with a pipe wrench. So, yeah, probably unscrews. You'll probably have to make a tool to drive in that slot.
    • A bit late but A disk S13P fit over stock R32 GTR brakes, usually A disk front, O disk rear works.
    • Or, the height of the release bearing is not correct for your combo. Start with the bleeding and checking the slave moves throughout its range when you press the pedal (2 person required), but it is possible for the height to be internally wrong too (box back off to measure.
    • Yes, there's quite a few things that can go wrong during a clutch install. Very unlikely. I have a similar clutch. They (ACS) make good gear. No, it is not normal. It is possible that you just need to bleed the clutch slave. But the new clutch will also have a more aggressive actuation force/pressure, and so your old slave cylinder might be a bit leaky or otherwise compromised, and not up to the extra force required. Or the master cylinder, same.
    • Hi...so a "development" here aswell The swap is "done" and car went "test drive" BUT it seems the clutch(maybe gearbox?) is a little bit sad? I bought this clutch kit https://justjap.com/products/xtreme-heavy-duty-organic-clutch-flywheel-kit-nissan-skyline-r31-r32-r33-push-type "Problem" is that the first gear is hard to put into and it seems that the clutch is not disengaged. It was not the problem with the old clutch...(or like sometime the first gear would not get as easy specialy when the fluid was cold) So? Can it be like...bad "install" or is the clutch wrong ((it should not have been) i done research to get the right one) Or is this "normal" with new clutch and needs to be break in? 
×
×
  • Create New...