Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys and girls :D

Just wondering if anyone has pics of their, or anyone elses R34 Gtt's engine bay with FMIC cooler pipes installed. I'm getting mine done next week and i'm just wondering about the stock air box and air intake pipe. I am guesing they are no longer usable due to the pipes being too big and thus the air intake pipe being unsuable, which in turn stops the airbox getting an air feed. So i am thinking i will have to go for a pod with a head sheild or something, but thought perhaps someone had found a way to use the stock air box.

I'm after pics of either of these set ups, FMIC pipes and still using the airbox (and perhaps the air feed), or with a pod filter set up (with a heat sheild/box, or however you have done it).

Sean

Hey guys and girls :D

Just wondering if anyone has pics of their, or anyone elses R34 Gtt's engine bay with FMIC cooler pipes installed. I'm getting mine done next week and i'm just wondering about the stock air box and air intake pipe. I am guesing they are no longer usable due to the pipes being too big and thus the air intake pipe being unsuable, which in turn stops the airbox getting an air feed. So i am thinking i will have to go for a pod with a head sheild or something, but thought perhaps someone had found a way to use the stock air box.

I'm after pics of either of these set ups, FMIC pipes and still using the airbox (and perhaps the air feed), or with a pod filter set up (with a heat sheild/box, or however you have done it).

Sean

My cooler returns to the stock pipes. I know many of the Jap brands do this with their kits. Various pics available in the link in my sig.

Yes mine is going to return the stock route, but i wont be using the stock piping. I will be having some stronger thicker piping made up using mild steel. This will be the same size as the Jap kits which also come back the stock route, and i've noticed that the air box etc isn't used when these kits are.

Yes mine is going to return the stock route, but i wont be using the stock piping. I will be having some stronger thicker piping made up using mild steel. This will be the same size as the Jap kits which also come back the stock route, and i've noticed that the air box etc isn't used when these kits are.

you sure? its usually the hybrids that dont allow you to use the stock snorkel, and because of that people usually ditch the stock airbox and make a CAI using the hole freed up under the airbox.

So what brands of intercooler allows us to use the stock piping?

Choyda u wish to clarify on that please?

blitz lm

arc kits

there may be others, but those are the 2 i know of.

there's 2 types of kits

Turn Flow = pipe goes through the battery tray

Cross Flow = using stock pipe position

In this pic you can see the R33 and R34 kits go behind/under the cooler to return to the stock piping, and not come up through a hole in the battery tray area and over the fan blades

ica2.gif

Hey guys and girls :nyaanyaa:

Just wondering if anyone has pics of their, or anyone elses R34 Gtt's engine bay with FMIC cooler pipes installed. I'm getting mine done next week and i'm just wondering about the stock air box and air intake pipe. I am guesing they are no longer usable due to the pipes being too big and thus the air intake pipe being unsuable, which in turn stops the airbox getting an air feed. So i am thinking i will have to go for a pod with a head sheild or something, but thought perhaps someone had found a way to use the stock air box.

I'm after pics of either of these set ups, FMIC pipes and still using the airbox (and perhaps the air feed), or with a pod filter set up (with a heat sheild/box, or however you have done it).

Sean

here is a pic of mine, with the ugly pipes...... im going to get a greddy plenum to do away with the pipes over the engine...i hate them...

post-1416-1152600197.jpg

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • 1/8NPT drill size = 8.7mm. Since the hole got messed up by me, it’s probably around 9mm.    So 1/4” NPT would be next step. A drill size of around 11mm would be preferred there which is not way of my M12 (drill 10.5mm and tap M12 threads) 
    • 3 Kids are starting to hit that ages. I wanted to get them something special to learn on, put down the screens and have some fun. 4Door 2001 R34DE Black Pearl GV1 Jap Import, AU 2nd owner. Pre Work done. Suspension - Wheels Pedders SportsRyder Coilovers   Wheels TSG Spokey Boi 18'x9.5"+15 Body JASI Aero 4 door Type R Full Kit LED Conversion - Parker, Blinkers, & Reverse Exhaust Hurricane Headers 100 CPI high flow cat 2.5" Piping Cannon muffler Internal Bride low max stradia ii - front seats  Bride RO seat base and Rails (R/H) Cube short shifter LED Conversion - Interior   
    • Why are you so adamant on going M12? Why not follow Brad (GTSBoy) suggestion. You're talking moving from a 1/8" size, to a 1/2" effectively. 4 times bigger. Why skip the commonly available sizes in between? The bigger you go, the more likely you are to strip the threads out at a later date, as guaranteed, someone will put a huge spanner on the M12 and really tighten it up, and you're only in thin wall, so not a lot of threads to engage!
    • Hi. Yeah thanks. Car is already at tuners and it staying there to resolve "many" issues they do not like. So it is in a good hands. Getting a good tune on that Nistune ECU too so the car would be good. Just needs a little tune up and love.
    • Probably gonna remove manifold and turbo. I’m not sure if I can get M12 x 1.5 air tight. Could use high temp Loctite 246 or something similar, but I don’t know. Maybe it’s just best to remove everything again and weld an 1/8NPT on there instead.
×
×
  • Create New...