Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 57
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

I'm more confused than when I started reading this thread, I realise you have a vested interest as you are a trader EXAUNV, but could explain to me if there is any difference in quality between a Hybrid, Greddy M-Spec, and your coolers? Or is it just a brand preference thing?

I'm more confused than when I started reading this thread, I realise you have a vested interest as you are a trader EXAUNV, but could explain to me if there is any difference in quality between a Hybrid, Greddy M-Spec, and your coolers? Or is it just a brand preference thing?

I may be a trader, but I am also a user of these items so I won't lie to you in the slightest.

The difference between a Hybrid and what I sell ($699 VS $349) is only the clamps. The Hybrid kits come with really decent looking clamps, our ones aren't as flash.

The Trust version on the other hand is perfect. It is a trust item afterall and there quality assurance is amazing and for the same price as a Hybrid, the Hyrbid is not a match.

Alternatively you've got the cheaper option of the gktech kit which does do the job, is very good quality (I wouldn't say perfect like the Trust units), fits well, and is just cheap.

At the end of the day it's really up to what the end user wants.

Greg

P.S We just got 2 containers in last week so there's plenty in stock now ready to go.

P.P.S here's the list of some of the guys that purchased intercooler kits from us during a group buy. I'm sure they'll be able to tell you the ups and downs to the gktech kits.

1. EGA41T - R34 GT-T

2. hayden49 - R33 GTS-T

3. Promax - R33 GTS-T

4. BiAsA - R33 GTS-T

5. Paradizzle - R33 GTS-T

6. mass_iv - R33 GTS-T

7. the_barman82 - R33 GTS-T

8. khunjeng - R33 GTS-T

9. Musky - R33 GTS-T

10. l0WRB - R33 GTS-T

Edited by EXAUNV

Time for me to chuck in my 2cents :sick:

Hybrid are a joke :(

They price their kits in the same league as ARC and Blitz, yet offer nothing to justify doing so.

They use the same piping setup as GKTech kits, which can be bought for a fraction of what hybrid charges.

I see absolutely no reason to buy a hybrid, ever. If you dont mind the common piping route, get a GKTech and blow the rest of the cash you saved on more mods to go with it...

if you want to spend big on an intercooler, get an arc, blitz etc :huh:

Ive got a Hybrid kit and im happy with its quality. Having said that if the Greedy kit was available at the time i bought my Hybrid(only ~3 mths ago) i would have gone for that instead. Reason being, with the Hybrid kit, its not a simple case of bolt on and off u go. In most cases the fan blades have to be cropped to clear the top pipe& brackets have to be modified to fit. In my case i manage to get away with chopping the fan blades on my 34 but had to get some brackets made up to have it fit properly. The washer bottle also had to be moved to clear the pipes.

So i think wot the guys here r trying to say is, u could save $100 on the Hybrid but be prepare to spend more on fitting it, possibly more than the $100 difference. So IMO, i'd go with the Greddy, assuming that it fits well without any extra butchering.

well i dont know what the whole fuss is over in aussi about intercoolers, but i run a Blitz intercooler (fckin huge piece of shit). i got mine for a quite resonable price as these things are a tad cheaper in the US (where i get most of my things from). i got it with all the piping ans silicone joiners for about $980

I sort of though the Blitz coolers were meant to be pretty good. Am I correct in assuming that the ARC and Blitz coolers are some of the few that do not require cutting a whole under the battery tray on a R33?

Hmm well I'm getting more & more put off by the hybrid kit & liking the sound of a Greddy or even custom setup.

Just curious though, if the Hybrid intercooler isn't a tube & fin cooler, what the hell is it? Some sought of in between moungrel thing?

The Blitz system doesn't require cutting a hole as it has a return pipe to the original SMIC feed pipes. Fairly smart setup but you pay for it & I believe if you want to go for the front facing plenem like I eventually intend to do (probably in like 2 or 3 years) then you have to change the cooler again too.

However from memory the standard plenum is good for up to 300RWKW so if you have no intention of going over this kind of power it would be a good choice from an asthetic point of view. Don't know what they flow like though.

Edited by JazzaR33
Hmm well I'm getting more & more put off by the hybrid kit & liking the sound of a Greddy or even custom setup.

Just curious though, if the Hybrid intercooler isn't a tube & fin cooler, what the hell is it? Some sought of in between moungrel thing?

The Hybrid is more of a bar and fin..

I guess you could call it a *Hybrid*

Greg

Edited by EXAUNV
I sort of though the Blitz coolers were meant to be pretty good. Am I correct in assuming that the ARC and Blitz coolers are some of the few that do not require cutting a whole under the battery tray on a R33?

you are correct. also dont understand that guys comments, as arc and blitz are known as 2 of the best cooler kits in the market.

Hmm well I'm getting more & more put off by the hybrid kit & liking the sound of a Greddy or even custom setup.

Just curious though, if the Hybrid intercooler isn't a tube & fin cooler, what the hell is it? Some sought of in between moungrel thing?

i always thought hybrid had bar and plate, and a more expensive kit with the tube and fin, but dont quote me.

either way, i wouldnt waste my money on a real hybrid...if u dont mind the hybrid set up, save ur $ and get the gktech.

u can get greddy mspec for $650 on ns.com sponsers :)
yep $650 is correct i was referring to the prices (delivered), cheers for the post though.

greddy spec M kit is $635 DELIVERED from a certain sponsor on ns.com

told so many ppl bout this and everyone seems amazed =/

you are correct. also dont understand that guys comments, as arc and blitz are known as 2 of the best cooler kits in the market.

Yeah like I said I don't know what they work like I've just seen what they look like. This is early days for me on the research side of intercoolers for R33's.

Just to clarify what I mean with the piping (& I am only going by memory from when I saw one ages ago in a shop), I think the right hand end tank actually has it's outlet facing left (ie elbowed around) for the pipe going to return through the original cutout & up to the intake plenum the same as the original SMIC.

If this is so it is no good for if the intake plenum in changed for one that the inlet points to the front of the car rather than back across to the left hand side of the engine bay. The intercooler pipe then has to come through the right hand side just like the hybrid kits etc but no longer has to travel across to the other side of the engine bay again as this is right near the plenum inlet (ie similar setup to what a GTR has standard). For this setup the pipe work would then need a second elbow from the right tank so it heads the correct way, not really ideal.

Now I've said all this I'm gonna go check it out & will probably find I'm wrong but anyway, hope that makes it a bit clearer.

Edited by JazzaR33

no need to explain piping to me...I know how they work...my blitz LM is in the mail...

blitz lm/arc with the cross flow design (cross flow = utilising stock piping) have the return pipe running underneath the core (on the 33's) and behind the core (on the 34's).

if you have an aftermarket plenum that faces forward, then a blitz lm/arc wont do you any good, as the piping will head the wrong way...with a forward facing plenum, you'll be going for a normal hybrid style kit

no need to explain piping to me...I know how they work...my blitz LM is in the mail...

blitz lm/arc with the cross flow design (cross flow = utilising stock piping) have the return pipe running underneath the core (on the 33's) and behind the core (on the 34's).

if you have an aftermarket plenum that faces forward, then a blitz lm/arc wont do you any good, as the piping will head the wrong way...with a forward facing plenum, you'll be going for a normal hybrid style kit

why not get a piping kit to suit a gtr, if u have aftermarket plenum?

' date='15 Sep 2006, 10:14 PM' post='2500483']

why not get a piping kit to suit a gtr, if u have aftermarket plenum?

It would depend on the plenum used.

If the plenum intake isn't located in roughly the same spot, then the GTR kit just became useless without mods anyway. GTR plenum is different in that it doesn't have the throttle body bolted onto the front of it too. May change things a bit as far as length is concerned.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Who did you have do the installation? I actually know someone who is VERY familiar with the AVS gear. The main point of contact though would be your installer.   Where are you based in NZ?
    • Look, realistically, those are some fairly chunky connectors and wires so it is a reasonably fair bet that that loom was involved in the redirection of the fuel pump and/or ECU/ignition power for the immobiliser. It's also fair to be that the new immobiliser is essentially the same thing as the old one, and so it probably needs the same stuff done to make it do what it has to do. Given that you are talking about a car that no-one else here is familiar with (I mean your exact car) and an alarm that I've never heard of before and so probably not many others are familiar with, and that some wire monkey has been messing with it out of our sight, it seems reasonable that the wire monkey should be fixing this.
    • Wheel alignment immediately. Not "when I get around to it". And further to what Duncan said - you cannot just put camber arms on and shorten them. You will introduce bump steer far in excess of what the car had with stock arms. You need adjustable tension arms and they need to be shortened also. The simplest approach is to shorten them the same % as the stock ones. This will not be correct or optimal, but it will be better than any other guess. The correct way to set the lengths of both arms is to use a properly built/set up bump steer gauge and trial and error the adjustments until you hit the camber you need and want and have minimum bump steer in the range of motion that the wheel is expected to travel. And what Duncan said about toe is also very true. And you cannot change the camber arm without also affecting toe. So when you have adjustable arms on the back of a Skyline, the car either needs to go to a talented wheel aligner (not your local tyre shop dropout), or you need to be able to do this stuff yourself at home. Guess which approach I have taken? I have built my own gear for camber, toe and bump steer measurement and I do all this on the flattest bit of concrete I have, with some shims under the tyres on one side to level the car.
    • Thought I would get some advice from others on this situation.    Relevant info: R33 GTS25t Link G4x ECU Walbro 255LPH w/ OEM FP Relay (No relay mod) Scenario: I accidentally messed up my old AVS S5 (rev.1) at the start of the year and the cars been immobilised. Also the siren BBU has completely failed; so I decided to upgrade it.  I got a newer AVS S5 (rev.2?) installed on Friday. The guy removed the old one and its immobilisers. Tried to start it; the car cranks but doesnt start.  The new one was installed and all the alarm functions seem to be working as they should; still wouldn't start Went to bed; got up on Friday morning and decided to have a look into the no start problem. Found the car completely dead.  Charged the battery; plugged it back in and found the brake lights were stuck on.  Unplugging the brake pedal switch the lights turn off. Plug it back in and theyre stuck on again. I tested the switch (continuity test and resistance); all looks good (0-1kohm).  On talking to AVS; found its because of the rubber stopper on the brake pedal; sure enough the middle of it is missing so have ordered a new one. One of those wear items; which was confusing what was going on However when I try unplugging the STOP Light fuses (under the dash and under the hood) the brake light still stays on. Should those fuses not cut the brake light circuit?  I then checked the ECU; FP Speed Error.  Testing the pump again; I can hear the relay clicking every time I switch it to ON. I unplugged the pump and put the multimeter across the plug. No continuity; im seeing 0.6V (ECU signal?) and when it switches the relay I think its like 20mA or 200mA). Not seeing 12.4V / 7-9A. As far as I know; the Fuel Pump was wired through one of the immobiliser relays on the old alarm.  He pulled some thick gauged harness out with the old alarm wiring; which looks to me like it was to bridge connections into the immobilisers? Before it got immobilised it was running just fine.  Im at a loss to why the FP is getting no voltage; I thought maybe the FP was faulty (even though I havent even done 50km on the new pump) but no voltage at the harness plug.  Questions: Could it be he didnt reconnect the fuel pump when testing it after the old alarm removal (before installing the new alarm)?  Is this a case of bridging to the brake lights instead of the fuel pump circuit? It's a bit beyond me as I dont do a lot with electrical; so have tried my best to diagnose what I think seems to make sense.  Seeking advice if theres for sure an issue with the alarm install to get him back here; or if I do infact, need an auto electrician to diagnose it. 
    • Then, shorten them by 1cm, drop the car back down and have a visual look (or even better, use a spirit level across the wheel to see if you have less camber than before. You still want something like 1.5 for road use. Alternatively, if you have adjustable rear ride height (I assume you do if you have extreme camber wear), raise the suspension back to standard height until you can get it all aligned properly. Finally, keep in mind that wear on the inside of the tyre can be for incorrect toe, not just camber
×
×
  • Create New...