Jump to content
SAU Community

E80 Head Questions

noddle
 Share

Recommended Posts

  • 2 weeks later...
discopotato03 Grand Master

discopotato03

Posted
Posted

This is from a couple of American books I have by Frank Honzowetz .

L24 with single 2 Bbl Carburettor 38mm intake 33mm exhaust valves .

L24 up to 7/73 42 and 33mm .

L24 after 8/76 42 and 35mm .

I'm told that the best L24 head in Australia was the one from the 1981 only build Skyline MR30 2.4E . I can't remember which casting number it has but someone in here will quote . Im opretty sure it used the larger 35mm exhaust valves and has closed heart shaped chambers like the 1600 SSS had .

If you can find one in good nick its the one to use . Basically most L heads need help in the exhaust side and the best available combustion chamber shape is a huge bonus .

Cheers A .

paulmac Community Regular

paulmac

Posted
Posted
This is from a couple of American books I have by Frank Honzowetz .

L24 with single 2 Bbl Carburettor 38mm intake 33mm exhaust valves .

L24 up to 7/73 42 and 33mm .

L24 after 8/76 42 and 35mm .

I'm told that the best L24 head in Australia was the one from the 1981 only build Skyline MR30 2.4E . I can't remember which casting number it has but someone in here will quote . Im opretty sure it used the larger 35mm exhaust valves and has closed heart shaped chambers like the 1600 SSS had .

If you can find one in good nick its the one to use . Basically most L heads need help in the exhaust side and the best available combustion chamber shape is a huge bonus .

Cheers A .

are you talking about the N47 head???

SteveL Mentor

SteveL

Posted
Posted
are you talking about the N47 head???

No, he's talking about the E88 head fitted to local spec R30 Skylines. The N47 is a round exhaust port, US spec head (shudder). The R30 type E88 has a 'small' combustion chamber similar to the early 240Z E31, but with 42mm inlet and 35mm exhaust valves. It's an easy matter to fit the bigger 44mm inlet valve used in L28 heads (eg N42) and it's a bolt-on compression increase for an L28 engine, even with dished pistons.

For the OP, what you have is an E30 head...there's no such thing as an L6 'E80' head. The E30 is fitted to stock, L24S (single carb) engines used in 240K and C210 Skyline. It uses very small valves and inlet ports, but has the one redeeming feature of a 'small' combustion chamber, similar to the E31 head. So it also gives a bolt-on CR increase for an L28, but is otherwise a good boat anchor. In the early days of Z performance builds when E31 heads were scarce and expensive (still are...), we used to port E30 heads and fit bigger valves, but it was a LOT of work.

noddle Rising Star

noddle

Posted
  • Author
Posted
No, he's talking about the E88 head fitted to local spec R30 Skylines. The N47 is a round exhaust port, US spec head (shudder). The R30 type E88 has a 'small' combustion chamber similar to the early 240Z E31, but with 42mm inlet and 35mm exhaust valves. It's an easy matter to fit the bigger 44mm inlet valve used in L28 heads (eg N42) and it's a bolt-on compression increase for an L28 engine, even with dished pistons.

For the OP, what you have is an E30 head...there's no such thing as an L6 'E80' head. The E30 is fitted to stock, L24S (single carb) engines used in 240K and C210 Skyline. It uses very small valves and inlet ports, but has the one redeeming feature of a 'small' combustion chamber, similar to the E31 head. So it also gives a bolt-on CR increase for an L28, but is otherwise a good boat anchor. In the early days of Z performance builds when E31 heads were scarce and expensive (still are...), we used to port E30 heads and fit bigger valves, but it was a LOT of work.

You are right, it is a "E30" Head, thats what you get when looking in the dark with a torch..

You mentioned a N42 head, (I have one of these, with the injector cut into the intake port, on an old tired L28) will this fit on my L24 and Is it worth putting on it if it does fit ?

post-13098-1153902353.jpg

SteveL Mentor

SteveL

Posted
Posted
so the n47 is a US spec head :happy: i got one on my car but its an aussie ti hatch, so its not meant to be there or is it?? Paul.

Other than yours, I've never seen or heard of one fitted to an Oz spec car. The N47 uses stainless steel liners in the exhaust ports designed to 'glow' and burn-off any un-burnt fuel. This was required to meet more stringent emission specs in the US.

SteveL Mentor

SteveL

Posted
Posted
Is it worth putting on it if it does fit ?

No...it will drop the CR on your L24 and performance (already not great) will suffer.....

If you want to improve performance with the L24, get a good E88 head from an R30 Skyline and bolt that on. With a cam (nothing wild) and upgraded fuel system (240Z carbs are a good option, but can be hard to find), plus extractors and a reasonable exhaust system, the car will be transformed. But at the end of the day, go L28 if you can as that's the ideal upgrade for these cars.

noddle Rising Star

noddle

Posted
  • Author
Posted
No...it will drop the CR on your L24 and performance (already not great) will suffer.....

If you want to improve performance with the L24, get a good E88 head from an R30 Skyline and bolt that on. With a cam (nothing wild) and upgraded fuel system (240Z carbs are a good option, but can be hard to find), plus extractors and a reasonable exhaust system, the car will be transformed. But at the end of the day, go L28 if you can as that's the ideal upgrade for these cars.

If I got my hands on a L24E (R30 engine ?) and put the Electronic Injection on a L28, would this be a better option than a straight L24E ?

I’m after a little more power but not wanting to reduce my fuel economy by to much.

  • 3 weeks later...
shane_cummings Contributor

shane_cummings

Posted
Posted

Hi,

I'm building an L28 at the moment. This website is the most informative and simple I've come across.

The cylinder head section gives comp ratios, combustion chamber cc's, valve sizes, describes ports for every L series head. A must read.

http://www.geocities.com/zgarage2001/z.html

  • 2 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • 04-LOOX
      R34 GTR Vspec Garage Sale - All must go!

      By 04-LOOX · Posted

      Hi, is the HKS  Tower Bar still available ? negotiable ? 🤔
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      Place the new daughterboard in the case and mount it using the 3 small black rivets provided, and reconnect the 3 factory ribbon cables to the new board Then, use the 3 piggyback cables from the daughterboard into the factory board on top (there are stand offs in the case to keep them apart. and remember to reconnect the antenna and rear cover fan wires. 1 screw to hold the motherboard in place. Before closing the case, make a hole in the sticker covering a hole in the case and run the cable for the android unit into the plug there. The video forgot this step, so did I, so will you probably. Then redo the 4 screws on back, 2 each top and bottom, 3 each side and put the 2 brackets back on.....all ready to go and not that tricky really.      
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      Onto the android unit. You need to remove the top screen because there is a daughterboard to put inside the case. Each side vent pops out from clips; start at the bottom and carefully remove upwards (use a trim remover tool to avoid breaking anything). Then the lower screen and controls come out, 4 screws, a couple of clips (including 3 flimsy ones at the top) and 3 plugs on the rear. Then the upper screen, 4 screws and a bunch of plugs and she is out. From there, remove the mounting brackets (2 screws each), 4 screws on the rear, 2 screws top and bottom and 3 screws holding in the small plates on each side. When you remove the back cover (tight fit), watch out for the power cable for the fan, I removed it so I could put the back aside. The mainboard is held in by 1 screw in the middle, 1 aerial at the top and 3 ribbon cables. If you've ever done any laptop stuff the ribbon cables are OK to work with, just pop up the retainer and they slide out. If you are not familiar just grab a 12 year old from an iphone factory, they will know how it works The case should now look like this:
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      Switching the console was tricky. First there were 6 screws to remove, and also the little adapter loom and its screws had to come out. Also don't forget to remove the 2 screws holding the central locking receiver. Then there are 4 clips on either side....these were very tight in this case and needed careful persuading with a long flat screw driver....some force required but not enough to break them...this was probably the fiddliest part of the whole job. In my case I needed both the wiring loom and the central locking receiver module to swap across to the new one. That was it for the console, so "assembly is the reverse of disassembly"
×
×
  • Create New...