Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • 2 weeks later...

This is from a couple of American books I have by Frank Honzowetz .

L24 with single 2 Bbl Carburettor 38mm intake 33mm exhaust valves .

L24 up to 7/73 42 and 33mm .

L24 after 8/76 42 and 35mm .

I'm told that the best L24 head in Australia was the one from the 1981 only build Skyline MR30 2.4E . I can't remember which casting number it has but someone in here will quote . Im opretty sure it used the larger 35mm exhaust valves and has closed heart shaped chambers like the 1600 SSS had .

If you can find one in good nick its the one to use . Basically most L heads need help in the exhaust side and the best available combustion chamber shape is a huge bonus .

Cheers A .

This is from a couple of American books I have by Frank Honzowetz .

L24 with single 2 Bbl Carburettor 38mm intake 33mm exhaust valves .

L24 up to 7/73 42 and 33mm .

L24 after 8/76 42 and 35mm .

I'm told that the best L24 head in Australia was the one from the 1981 only build Skyline MR30 2.4E . I can't remember which casting number it has but someone in here will quote . Im opretty sure it used the larger 35mm exhaust valves and has closed heart shaped chambers like the 1600 SSS had .

If you can find one in good nick its the one to use . Basically most L heads need help in the exhaust side and the best available combustion chamber shape is a huge bonus .

Cheers A .

are you talking about the N47 head???

are you talking about the N47 head???

No, he's talking about the E88 head fitted to local spec R30 Skylines. The N47 is a round exhaust port, US spec head (shudder). The R30 type E88 has a 'small' combustion chamber similar to the early 240Z E31, but with 42mm inlet and 35mm exhaust valves. It's an easy matter to fit the bigger 44mm inlet valve used in L28 heads (eg N42) and it's a bolt-on compression increase for an L28 engine, even with dished pistons.

For the OP, what you have is an E30 head...there's no such thing as an L6 'E80' head. The E30 is fitted to stock, L24S (single carb) engines used in 240K and C210 Skyline. It uses very small valves and inlet ports, but has the one redeeming feature of a 'small' combustion chamber, similar to the E31 head. So it also gives a bolt-on CR increase for an L28, but is otherwise a good boat anchor. In the early days of Z performance builds when E31 heads were scarce and expensive (still are...), we used to port E30 heads and fit bigger valves, but it was a LOT of work.

No, he's talking about the E88 head fitted to local spec R30 Skylines. The N47 is a round exhaust port, US spec head (shudder). The R30 type E88 has a 'small' combustion chamber similar to the early 240Z E31, but with 42mm inlet and 35mm exhaust valves. It's an easy matter to fit the bigger 44mm inlet valve used in L28 heads (eg N42) and it's a bolt-on compression increase for an L28 engine, even with dished pistons.

For the OP, what you have is an E30 head...there's no such thing as an L6 'E80' head. The E30 is fitted to stock, L24S (single carb) engines used in 240K and C210 Skyline. It uses very small valves and inlet ports, but has the one redeeming feature of a 'small' combustion chamber, similar to the E31 head. So it also gives a bolt-on CR increase for an L28, but is otherwise a good boat anchor. In the early days of Z performance builds when E31 heads were scarce and expensive (still are...), we used to port E30 heads and fit bigger valves, but it was a LOT of work.

You are right, it is a "E30" Head, thats what you get when looking in the dark with a torch..

You mentioned a N42 head, (I have one of these, with the injector cut into the intake port, on an old tired L28) will this fit on my L24 and Is it worth putting on it if it does fit ?

post-13098-1153902353.jpg

so the n47 is a US spec head :happy: i got one on my car but its an aussie ti hatch, so its not meant to be there or is it?? Paul.

Other than yours, I've never seen or heard of one fitted to an Oz spec car. The N47 uses stainless steel liners in the exhaust ports designed to 'glow' and burn-off any un-burnt fuel. This was required to meet more stringent emission specs in the US.

Is it worth putting on it if it does fit ?

No...it will drop the CR on your L24 and performance (already not great) will suffer.....

If you want to improve performance with the L24, get a good E88 head from an R30 Skyline and bolt that on. With a cam (nothing wild) and upgraded fuel system (240Z carbs are a good option, but can be hard to find), plus extractors and a reasonable exhaust system, the car will be transformed. But at the end of the day, go L28 if you can as that's the ideal upgrade for these cars.

No...it will drop the CR on your L24 and performance (already not great) will suffer.....

If you want to improve performance with the L24, get a good E88 head from an R30 Skyline and bolt that on. With a cam (nothing wild) and upgraded fuel system (240Z carbs are a good option, but can be hard to find), plus extractors and a reasonable exhaust system, the car will be transformed. But at the end of the day, go L28 if you can as that's the ideal upgrade for these cars.

If I got my hands on a L24E (R30 engine ?) and put the Electronic Injection on a L28, would this be a better option than a straight L24E ?

I’m after a little more power but not wanting to reduce my fuel economy by to much.

  • 3 weeks later...

Hi,

I'm building an L28 at the moment. This website is the most informative and simple I've come across.

The cylinder head section gives comp ratios, combustion chamber cc's, valve sizes, describes ports for every L series head. A must read.

http://www.geocities.com/zgarage2001/z.html

  • 2 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Update 3: Hi all It's been a while. Quite a lot of things happened in the meantime, among other things the car is (almost) back together and ready to be started again. Things that I fixed or changed: Full turbo removal, fitting back the OEM turbo oil hardlines. Had to do quite a bit of research and parts shopping to get every last piece that I need and make it work with the GT2860 turbos, but it does work and is not hard to do. Proves that the previous owner(s) just did not want to. While I was there I set the preload for the wastegates to 0,9bar to hopefully make it easier for the tuner to hit the 370hp I need for the legal inspections that will follow later on. Boost can always go up if necessary. Fitted a AN10 line from the catch can to the intake hose to make the catchcan and hopefully the cam covers a slight vacuum to have less restrictive oil returns from the head and not have mud build up as harshly in the lines and catch can. Removed the entire front interior just shy of the dashboard itself to clean up some of the absolutely horrendous wiring, (hopefully) fix the bumpy tacho and put in LED bulbs while I was there. Also put in bulbs where there was none before, like the airbag one. I also used that chance to remove the LED rpm gauge on the steering column, which was also wired in absolute horror show fashion. Moved the 4in1 Prosport gauge from sitting in front of the OEM oil pressure gauge to the center console vents, I used a 3D printed vent piece to hold that gauge there. The HKB steering wheel boss was likely on incorrectly as I sometimes noticed the indicator reset being uneven for left vs. right. In the meantime also installed an airbag delete resistor, as one should. Installed Cube Speed premium short shifter. Feels pretty nice, hope it'll work great too when I actually get to drive. Also put on a fancy Dragon Ball shift knob, cause why not. My buddy was kind enough to weld the rust hole in the back, it was basically rusted through in the lowermost corner of the passenger side trunk area where the wheel arch, trunk panel and rear quarter all meet. Obviously there is still a lot of crustiness in various areas but as long as it's not rusted out I'll just treat and isolate the corrosion and pretend it's not there. Also had to put down a new ground wire for the rear subframe as the original one was BARELY there. Probably a bit controversial depending on who you ask about this... but I ended up just covering the crack in the side of the engine block, the one above the oil feed, with JB Weld. I used a generous amount and roughed up the whole area with a Dremel before, so I hope this will hold the coolant where it should be for the foreseeable future. Did a cam cover gasket job as the half moons were a bit leaky, and there too one could see the people who worked on this car before me were absolute tools. The same half moons were probably used like 3 times without even cleaning the old RTV off. Dremeled out the inside of the flange where the turbine housing mates onto the exhaust manifolds so the diameter matches, as the OEM exhaust manifolds are even narrower than the turbine housings as we all know. Even if this doesn't do much, I had them out anyways, so can't harm. Ideally one would port-match both the turbo and the manifold to the gasket size but I really didn't feel up to disassembling the turbine housings. Wrapped turbo outlet dumps in heat wrap band. Will do the frontpipe again as well as now the oil leak which promted me to tear apart half the engine in the first place is hopefully fixed. Fitted an ATI super damper to get rid of the worn old harmonic balancer. Surely one of the easiest and most worth to do mods. But torquing that ARP bolt to spec was a bitch without being able to lock the flywheel. Did some minor adjustments in the ECU tables to change some things I didn't like, like the launch control that was ALWAYS active. Treated rusty spots and surface corrosion on places I could get to and on many spots under the car, not pretty or ideal but good enough for now. Removed the N1 rear spats and the carbon surrounding for the tailpipe to put them back on with new adhesive as the old one was lifting in many spots, not pretty. Took out the passenger rear lamp housing... what do you know. Amateur work screwed me again here as they were glued in hard and removing it took a lot of force, so I broke one of the housing bolts off. And when removing the adhesive from the chassis the paint came right off too. Thankfully all the damaged area won't be visible later, but whoever did the very limited bodywork on this car needs to have their limbs chopped off piece by piece.   Quite a list if I do say so myself, but a lot of time was spent just discovering new shit that is wrong with the car and finding a solution or parts to fix it. My last problem that I now have the headache of dealing with is that the exhaust studs on the turbo outlets are M10x1.25 threaded, but the previous owner already put on regular M10 nuts so the threads are... weird. I only found this out the hard way. So now I will just try if I can in any way fit the front pipe regardless, if not I'll have to redo the studs with the turbos installed. Lesson learned for the future: Redo ALL studs you put your hands on, especially if they are old and the previous owners were inept maniacs. Thanks for reading if you did, will update when the engine runs again. Hope nothing breaks or leaks and I can do a test drive.
    • No those pads are DBA too  but they have colors too. I look at the and imo the green "street" are the best.
    • I’m not sure what happened I told them about sonic tunes free OTS tune and the next the I know .. I was booted..   To funny 
    • Yea - I mean I've seen my fuel pump which is decades old and uh, while I'm not saying this with real knowledge... but I sure get the ick at using anything in the fuel system that produced the state of that pump. Many years ago I went through multiple pumps (and strainers) before I dropped the tank to clean it out with extreme violence. I'm talking the car would do maybe 50km before coming to a halt, which resulted in me cleaning out the filter with some brake cleaner and going on my way. None of my stuff ever looked like what came out of your fuel tank. I don't think I'd be happy with it unless every single component was replaced (or at least checked/cleaned/confirmed to be clean here).
×
×
  • Create New...