Jump to content
SAU Community

Third Party Fire And Theft, Are You Really Covered?


Recommended Posts

Hey. So i was thinking about buying a r33 gts-t. If i go 3rd party fire and theft, and i am over power to weight ratio being a P Plater, and i have a crash; Am i still covered even being over power to weight? Last thing i want to do is run into a new merc and not be covered. Just car insurance was the mob im thinking about.

Any answer's would really help. Thanks

well... you would probably be best asking the insurance company... its really at their discretion because i know plenty of people that have had claims covered regardless of them being on their Ps however if they want to they can screw you over.

YOU have to determine if you want to take the risk... if u cant afford full cover and if you know its illegal then you shouldnt buy the car. Get a 32 in the mean time til your off your Ps (under the P:W) and by then R34s will be cheaper and u can get one of them instead.... win win

when paul had his car on the lease it was covered for any driver, we thought sweet, i had a fang here and there - read the fine print 'any driver driving the car illegally is not covered' - i was on my p's and with power to weight, i stopped driving it till i got off my p's!

All i can say is dont be silly, GET FULL COMP!!!

Its not worth insuring a skyline under 3rd party. I know people who had their skylines insured under 3rd party and they had an accident where they were in the wrong and that was it, they ended up either selling the parts off to get some money back or paying out of their own pocket to get it all fixed up.

well a few members on the forums now have had crashes in thier R33's on their P's and been paid out with thier full comp insurance .... i have yet to hear of an insurance company not paying someone out for being a highpowered car.. but thats not to say it wont happen...

2 of my friends have been told by police that they are driving a highpowered vehicle and its illegal... so cops are really starting to clue on!

OK the thing about insurance companies is if you are breaking the law, your insurance 'can' become void.

Ie. You could be drunk, speeding, driving a car you shouldnt be driving, pretty much anything illegal.

Any of these things 'can' be gorunds for an insurance company not paying out. It will be up to the discreation of the insurance company whether they pay you or not.

Might be worth a phone call to them - with a hypothetical scenario.

lol yeh im pretty straight forward when it comes to insurance Sarah.

But if i had 3rd party when i had my accident i would have been stuffed and had no car no money, NOTHING.

But seriously matteh33 accidents are called accidents for a reason. Things never happen when you expect it and can sometimes be unpreventable.

exactly jax, ive been bought up thinking accidents happen, cover your arse pretty much

even though my family is fairly tight with the $$$, its not something we dont mind spending the money on becuase we know it can come back and bite us!

recently I smashed my R33 into a pole in the wet...the damage bill was around the 10k mark and my excess on full comp. was about $800. damn good deal I reckon.

I understand that if ur under 25 the premium is crazy...few doods in my FTO club under 25 r paying like 3k pa -OMFG who would bother??

anyway u need 3rd party at the least...and if ur doing anything that is not within their/vic roads rules u risk being voided...

if u can't afford the full comp. find a car with decent full comp and wait until u can...its crazy seeing people paying 3k a year for their insurance just cos they are under 25. another thing if ur record is bad or if u get caught doing somthing illegal you will pay the price with excessive premiums even when u r 30

stagea had third party, full stop.

didnt go for fire/theft as they would pay me 3k for a 30k car

full comp was uhh, 3.9 if i remember correctly after telling them about all the mods. This was with shannons and JCI was more like 4.5k.

Hey. So i was thinking about buying a r33 gts-t. If i go 3rd party fire and theft, and i am over power to weight ratio being a P Plater, and i have a crash; Am i still covered even being over power to weight? Last thing i want to do is run into a new merc and not be covered. Just car insurance was the mob im thinking about.

Any answer's would really help. Thanks

Well i would say read all the fine print...

You would find they would let you take out the 3rd party on Ps

But i would say they would not pay out for the other car if you had a smash

If your car cought fire in the drive yeah

Had it stolen Yeah

Smash in to another car they wont want to know you .

Because you should not of been on the road

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Apologies for the long post, but needed somewhere to lay out the entire timeline of events and actions taken:   I've got an 89 GTR with a R34 RB in it. It's been running great all year, driven probably 500KM in the last month. It's not my daily driver, just a weekend fun car.    Build info: R34 RB26 - HKS 2.7 stroker kit, HKS adjustable cam gears, HKS turbo upgrades, Trust intercooler, R34 factory DENSO 440cc injectors, JUN chipped/tuned R32 ECU. All of this work was performed in Japan back in 2019.    Thursday 10/2/25 - It's a nice day and decided I'll drive it to work, I start it up in the garage and I notice it took a few extra cranks and sounded a bit funny. I figure maybe it was just because it was a pretty chilly morning. I pull it out into the driveway to warm up a bit before leaving. As I leave the driveway, it feels very off and sounds like a misfire. I pull it back in the garage to deal with after work and take the daily to work. I was able to diagnose it as a cylinder 5 misfire with the old spark plug test (unplugging each plug until a sound change with the engine running). I take off the whole ignition system, ignitor, plugs, spark. *Important note, it is still on the R32 ignition system with the separate ignitor system. I test each system with a multi-meter and nothing presents as a smoking gun. I put it all back together and it starts up no issue. I go ahead and order the PRP R35 ignition conversion kit. It should arrive today (10/13/25)   Friday 10/3/25 - Another nice day, car starts up great and drives great all day. Very pleased that everything seems to be OK   Sunday 10/5/25 - Decided I'll take it to play some golf, load up and drive to the course about 25 minutes away. Drives wonderful the whole way there, I pull in the parking lot and the engine completely comes to a stop. I do not recall if it sputtered at all, but just remember all of the sudden the engine was off. I roll it into a parking spot, try to crank it back on and nothing.  It'll crank and crank and not even try to start. End up getting it towed back to my house and push it up into the garage.    Items I have checked: Fuel in the tank Fuel Pump relay Fuel pump fuse  Spark Plugs & gap Coil packs Ignitor    I know the cylinders are getting fuel as the plugs smell like fuel after a start attempt. I tried spraying starter fluid into the manifold and cranking and not even a sputter.    I decided to do the live CAS test (removing the the CAS, ignition on and spinning the CAS stalk to see if the injectors pulse and spark is active). All of the injectors were pulsing and I have spark at the plug. The half-moon end of the CAS did seem very loose, I'm not sure how much play is supposed to be there, but it was more than I expected. There was no in/out play of the shaft, just the tip end that is pinned on had quite a bit of play.    CAS Play video   When I put the CAS back in, I stupidly did not re-time the engine. I know I need to do that tonight, however, I do not think it will start given it seemingly was not the issue. My plan is to do the PRP R35 coil kit and retime the engine at the same time.    I plan on ordering the Haltech Nexus Plug-in ECU once they are available again, but ideally would like to get this sorted before firing the parts cannon at it and potentially adding more variables.    Anything glaring that I am missing here, I'm a bit at a loss?          
    • Get it on a dyno. Get something logging Consult. Run it up and find out what is causing it.
    • Looking for a plenum for rb25 de+t neo  Not looking to push much power maybe 300kw at the wheels, is there much difference in flow for Freddy “Greddy style” compared to original Greddy or options like Proflow or Otaku garage?    I won’t be porting the de Neo head for now as I think it’ll be fine 280-300rwkw but appreciate the help and any experiences anyone has between them and any advice. Thanks  Looking at this plenum for now below 
    • engine wise almost no mods: stock ecu Greddy front mount intercooler Greddy forward facing intake w R33 TB stock fuel system, stock injectors, rail etc. Kakimoto racing hyper 3 inch exhaust system Apexi intake filter New NGK –R BCPRES (.8 gap) plugs  
    • Nice one @Pac - looks like a fair few 1600's there! 
×
×
  • Create New...