Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

These are my comments from learning to drift in a fairly basic r32 gtst

-rims

start with 16's stock r32 and r33/s14 rims are good. Make sure tyres on front are good. Higher pressures on the rear can make it easier to loose traction, i usually run 38-40psi

-suspension

was a bit of discussion on this in another thread

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...howtopic=125069

regarding swaybar upgrades vs jap coilovers

i'd be looking for some good japanese coilovers, I would also get aftermarket pillowball castor rods for the front, and some tie-rod spacers for more steering lock (can be purchased from www.garage-13.com)

Also consider hicas lock perhaps, if you haven't lowered the car too much, camber adjustment is optional, you probably won't need it.

Then get a wheel alignment after installing all of them, set front castor to +7-8deg positive. A bit of toe-out (ie. 0.5mm each side) also helps for better turn-in for drifting.

-brakes

stock, make sure your pads and rotors are all in good condition, replace if necessary, good quality pads is a must for any motorsport. Make sure your handbrake shoes are adjusted. Skyline drum handbrakes lock HARD. much better than s13's which use the disc brake as the handbrake.

-other things

top of the list is a Diff that isn't stock. Either weld it or get an aftermarket mech diff. Most r32 stock lsd's are crapped out by now (15 years old or so), shimming is not really a permanent solution. Some people get lucky and have a good viscous lsd which locks nicely. But once you start drifting they don't take long to wear out. Welding is a good option in my opinion, but not too streetable (though it's not much worse than a tight 2-way)

The usual power mods are recommended, though stock power is plenty to start with. Also things like handbrake button, aftermarket steering wheel, shift knob, racing harness, aftermarket seat are great things to have and make life easier.

Alot of drift mods i've listed aren't too street friendly. Just keep that in mind...

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/125911-drift-setup/#findComment-2325486
Share on other sites

this car will be street driven most of the time, just that i will be going to drift practice now and then

We fitted a 2 way plated diff to our R33 and it can be turned into a drift machine simply by not heel and toeing on fast downchanges :thumbsup: Makes it a bit hairy when you dont want to drift and cant be assed heel and toeing whilst trying to press on hard. The wheels lock easily when dropping down through the box quickly. Not for normal driving mind, just when youre driving hard.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/125911-drift-setup/#findComment-2327902
Share on other sites

this car will be street driven most of the time, just that i will be going to drift practice now and then

A 1.5 way diff might be a better option for you then. Locks under power but only half-locks off power so you will still be able to turn tight corners without it being harsh and attracting attention.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/125911-drift-setup/#findComment-2338647
Share on other sites

no one mentioned a seat. Get yourself a proper fixed back bucket like a recaro or bride. Don't get a gtr seat, coz try sitting in it, but they're no more grippy than the gtst seat. even though they look good, they're no better.

With the stock seat, I find i'm always concentrating on hanging on for dear life instead of concentrating on driving.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/125911-drift-setup/#findComment-2348288
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I can see between the water jacket and cyl 3 there wasn't a hard line of combustion gas. It certainly appears that the issue is coming from there. Yes, checked the tension. All at 100ft lbs where I set them 5 years ago. These blocks can crack but generally when they have been over bored. Mine is only 0.5mm oversize at 89.5mm. They break between cylinders around the 91mm mark. No sign of that with mine. My gut feeling is the head gasket lifted a while back when the studs stretched and i bandaided it by retorquing the studs. It's finally let go.
    • My Nismo 1.5 churps a bit on reverse turns when cold, but besides that feels like a stock diff.
    • Yes, but, I paid cash and I'm pretty sure the receipt was in the bin 10 minutes after I got home Note to self, keep all receipts
    • Bunnings would have just handed you your money back on that one!
    • So, version 4 intake is on its way I was looking at these a while ago but at around $200 or more it was a little pricey for something that might not work, but, I had it in my watch list, but, I got a message saying it was on special, and I had a code thingie to use, it eventually came in at $120 delivered, so BAM, BUY NOW.....LOL I'll need to have a look when it arrives but I feel it will "look" better than what I currently have, as it comes with a PCV fitting, so I will be able to get rid of the alloy pipe that goes to the throttle body with the PCV fitting  Well, that's what the voices in my head are telling me  Oh, and this happened today Yeap, it was a Trojan, and it was cheap, so I headed back to the hardware store and actually spent a little bit more on a heavy duty,  one that was actually recommended by a plumber mate, a Cyclone one with a fibreglass handle that is actually rated for clay The broken shovel will eventually be "modified" into a short handle shovel
×
×
  • Create New...