Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

These are my comments from learning to drift in a fairly basic r32 gtst

-rims

start with 16's stock r32 and r33/s14 rims are good. Make sure tyres on front are good. Higher pressures on the rear can make it easier to loose traction, i usually run 38-40psi

-suspension

was a bit of discussion on this in another thread

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...howtopic=125069

regarding swaybar upgrades vs jap coilovers

i'd be looking for some good japanese coilovers, I would also get aftermarket pillowball castor rods for the front, and some tie-rod spacers for more steering lock (can be purchased from www.garage-13.com)

Also consider hicas lock perhaps, if you haven't lowered the car too much, camber adjustment is optional, you probably won't need it.

Then get a wheel alignment after installing all of them, set front castor to +7-8deg positive. A bit of toe-out (ie. 0.5mm each side) also helps for better turn-in for drifting.

-brakes

stock, make sure your pads and rotors are all in good condition, replace if necessary, good quality pads is a must for any motorsport. Make sure your handbrake shoes are adjusted. Skyline drum handbrakes lock HARD. much better than s13's which use the disc brake as the handbrake.

-other things

top of the list is a Diff that isn't stock. Either weld it or get an aftermarket mech diff. Most r32 stock lsd's are crapped out by now (15 years old or so), shimming is not really a permanent solution. Some people get lucky and have a good viscous lsd which locks nicely. But once you start drifting they don't take long to wear out. Welding is a good option in my opinion, but not too streetable (though it's not much worse than a tight 2-way)

The usual power mods are recommended, though stock power is plenty to start with. Also things like handbrake button, aftermarket steering wheel, shift knob, racing harness, aftermarket seat are great things to have and make life easier.

Alot of drift mods i've listed aren't too street friendly. Just keep that in mind...

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/125911-drift-setup/#findComment-2325486
Share on other sites

this car will be street driven most of the time, just that i will be going to drift practice now and then

We fitted a 2 way plated diff to our R33 and it can be turned into a drift machine simply by not heel and toeing on fast downchanges :thumbsup: Makes it a bit hairy when you dont want to drift and cant be assed heel and toeing whilst trying to press on hard. The wheels lock easily when dropping down through the box quickly. Not for normal driving mind, just when youre driving hard.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/125911-drift-setup/#findComment-2327902
Share on other sites

this car will be street driven most of the time, just that i will be going to drift practice now and then

A 1.5 way diff might be a better option for you then. Locks under power but only half-locks off power so you will still be able to turn tight corners without it being harsh and attracting attention.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/125911-drift-setup/#findComment-2338647
Share on other sites

no one mentioned a seat. Get yourself a proper fixed back bucket like a recaro or bride. Don't get a gtr seat, coz try sitting in it, but they're no more grippy than the gtst seat. even though they look good, they're no better.

With the stock seat, I find i'm always concentrating on hanging on for dear life instead of concentrating on driving.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/125911-drift-setup/#findComment-2348288
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Actually everyone on the roads was really well behaved. The only person that did any minor tailgating was a local hoon in a Turbo Focus. Unfortunately we weren't going the same way so there was no grand initial D touge battle. Lots of people pulled over and let me through. The amount of "Hey man nice car, omg skyline, nice 34 man woo" was suprising. Like really suprising. Like almost annoying. My partner was obviously surprised, she'd never seen anyone in the real world point out the car/like the car/want to chat about the car before, so to have like 3 people per day mention it was notable, I could finally say SEE? SOMEONE THINKS THEY'RE COOL. Everyone was also pretty suprised about the weather. Every day was dry and about ~13-14C. Mount Wellington had a sign that said they close the gates at 9pm and I was heading up there at about ~7:30. It was VERY apparent that conditions were getting significantly worse by the minute on the way up and down. The road on the mountain was terrible though, it's no driving road. I have various suspension related questions now. Luckily it was only about 20 minutes from where we were staying to the top of the mountain as said Google maps. We only had the 2 nights in Hobart. We went to the Farm Gate Market though which was really good - And went down to the Hastings Thermal springs/caves down there during the day. I'd definitely be up for going back again, so luckily there's a few more sights yet to see. Didn't get to do the west coast/queenstown/cradle mountain so this was supposed to be a 'scouting' trip anyway of sorts if I were to one day do/take part in/organize a more car-focused trip. As for the boat, it wasn't bad. Well it was bad, but not in the way you're thinking. We did the night trip which leaves at 6:45 (though you have to be there ~2 hours earlier) and arrives the next morning at about 6am. There is nothing to do on the ship. If you plan accordingly and bring a book/tablet/show to watch/charger you can just chill out, take some Travacalm and just sleep through it. The food there is an extremely basic buffet that costs $32 a plate, or $14 for a $3 pizza. The way back we had a travel kettle and a few different types of cup noodles and made our own tea/coffee in the room. This was a far superior way to do it. At the very least book one of the rooms with beds. I guess as we were in the off season we didn't have room mates. You get an option for rooms with 4 beds (2x bunks) or a room with just the two bottom beds. There's also some option for a deluxe queen bed but it's much pricer. We've been on sleeper trains in Asia before so we figured this is similar (and it was)
    • You just gotta be really, really, really clear and decisive with what you want your end product to be. 99% of people who want this conversion aren't "I want to run a 295 front tyre!" so they don't really need the widebody. They just want the OEM body to look a little less dumpy, so bonnet, bar, skirts job done with some camber, stretch, slam. It's when you want that, but then decide to pivot later you get big problems. See also if you're willing to get an all in one fibreglass bar, and you're willing to accept fibreglass problems like cracking the entire item on a driveway, instead of just a piece attached to the bottom, etc etc etc. Decide this all before buyin'.
    • After @Kinkstaah debacle, I'd never want to try and get it right 😛
    • The hood lines up with the fenders. The front bar doesn't perfectly line up with the fenders where the wheel arch is. You have to 'squeeze' the front bar 'in' as it wants to naturally flare out and be longer on the sides. There's a few threads where people notice this when they only swap a GTR style bumper and front bar. Unless you have genuine OEM items - you may be better served getting conversion kits. There are GTT bumpers to fit GTR hoods. There are GTR hoods (non genuine) to fit the GTT bracketry. MAY  
×
×
  • Create New...