Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I had a stalling problem with my car for a while and I was clueless as to why and how. Eventually it pointed to a faulty AFM. Upon opening up the AFM, we found a cracked plug with the 3 wires attached... the crack happened cos of the loose pod I had installed.

When you get a pod make sure you also get a heat shield or a brace to secure it. Itll save you the head aches later.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/125928-unsecure-pods/
Share on other sites

My pod was never secured onto anything other than my AFM.

I would actually say DON'T secure your pod or it will act as an engine brace when the engine (attached to the turbo and intake pipe) flexes on its mounts and braces against the mount you have.

What I would say is your AFM probably cracked because it was hitting the car and acting as an engine brace.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/125928-unsecure-pods/#findComment-2326181
Share on other sites

My pod was never secured onto anything other than my AFM.

I would actually say DON'T secure your pod or it will act as an engine brace when the engine (attached to the turbo and intake pipe) flexes on its mounts and braces against the mount you have.

What I would say is your AFM probably cracked because it was hitting the car and acting as an engine brace.

But isn't there a rubber flexi-joint between the AFM and the turbo inlet? By your argument you couldnt secure a regular air filter box either, yet all manufacturers do.

Rhett

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/125928-unsecure-pods/#findComment-2326299
Share on other sites

I would say secure your pod, cause otherwise a cop will defect you for it as has happened to a friend of mine...we couldnt get over it, the cop is like this isnt secured, to which my friend said its plumed into the engine, its not going anywhere. Cop said has to be secured and added it to the defect list. We made up a bracket to go round it and bolted it to the chassis.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/125928-unsecure-pods/#findComment-2327071
Share on other sites

Yeah i can possibly testament to this.

I had to have my afm replaced a short time ago, and my afn/pod is loose. Not sure whether it was due to the pod flopping around or that my stocker couldnt handle to increased flow.. it just simply wasnt working properly...

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/125928-unsecure-pods/#findComment-2327581
Share on other sites

Yeah i can possibly testament to this.

I had to have my afm replaced a short time ago, and my afn/pod is loose. Not sure whether it was due to the pod flopping around or that my stocker couldnt handle to increased flow.. it just simply wasnt working properly...

The electrical contacts and solder break off from the flapping around...

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/125928-unsecure-pods/#findComment-2327734
Share on other sites

are you serious, isnt the factory box bolted to the car, and the AFM bolted to that, how is securing the pod & AFM any different? Most pods come with brackets.

My pod was never secured onto anything other than my AFM.

I would actually say DON'T secure your pod or it will act as an engine brace when the engine (attached to the turbo and intake pipe) flexes on its mounts and braces against the mount you have.

What I would say is your AFM probably cracked because it was hitting the car and acting as an engine brace.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/125928-unsecure-pods/#findComment-2327957
Share on other sites

the stock intake pipe is flexable. and it IS a legal requirement for the pod to be mounted. 1 reason being that you wouldn't believe the amount of people who have their pods fall off because they are flopping around. on the magna forums there is a thread about putting chicken wire under the side of the engine to catch the pod if it falls off.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/125928-unsecure-pods/#findComment-2330109
Share on other sites

hey don't knock magna's. i would rate them over a dunnydore, or a natro falcon.... and a natro skyline. i had a 2000 model 3.5l 5 speed, putting out about 180hp. it was as quick as my skyline (when it was still stock). only downside is the front wheel drive. but they don't torque steer much... unlike my SSS pulsar.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/125928-unsecure-pods/#findComment-2334594
Share on other sites

hey don't knock magna's. i would rate them over a dunnydore, or a natro falcon.... and a natro skyline. i had a 2000 model 3.5l 5 speed, putting out about 180hp. it was as quick as my skyline (when it was still stock). only downside is the front wheel drive. but they don't torque steer much... unlike my SSS pulsar.

I drove my ex gf's 95 model Verada... arghh they had no power at all, my bro's VS commodore felt like a V8 compared to it. I dont know if they got better later on but back then they were pretty ordinary.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/125928-unsecure-pods/#findComment-2334694
Share on other sites

what motor was it? i think 95's had the 3L, which were very ordinary. they 3.5l were a different story. 120kw for the 3L vs 147kw for the 3.5L. the 3.5's had the same power as a vs-vt commodore, but weigh a bit less, and had shorter gearing so they pulled harder.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/125928-unsecure-pods/#findComment-2334797
Share on other sites

yeah you can get 4wd ones in the latest ones. there was a twin turbo magna putting out 350kw. 1st gear would've been useless though. i know that there are a few of the late model magnas with just full exhaust on air filters running mid to high 14's. they are very much an under rated car. if i was going to do up any late model car as a sleeper it would be a 4wd magna.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/125928-unsecure-pods/#findComment-2339299
Share on other sites

Ive got a pod shoved in today with no brace, i do plan to heat shield it or brace it in the future thou...

Out of interest thou, how long did u have ur pod before u had the crack?

Hard to say but I think it was a week later I started getting problems... at first I linked it to my atmo bov, so I removed that, then there was still intermitent problems...

Secure it asap to avoid AFM problems.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/125928-unsecure-pods/#findComment-2341102
Share on other sites

the stock intake pipe is flexable. and it IS a legal requirement for the pod to be mounted...

I have a stainless steel intake pipe, do you guys think that I still need to secure it? I have a heatshield made of firewall material around it, I'm hoping that if the reply is I have to secure it, that I can just use zip ties? :blink:

Edited by Hayness
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/125928-unsecure-pods/#findComment-2341560
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • This is the territory of the "Stage 1/2/3 Golf GTI/R" or otherwise off the shelf tune with (relative to before) minor mods. It's easier now. Downpipe and Tune and boom, big increases. Stage 1 OEM+ is where it's at. This is where the niche evolved into and it's really easy to see why. It's rare to even NEED to consider changing turbos or going to aftermarket ECU's or building bottom ends for more power. Stage 1-2-3 will get you a LONG WAY. Civic Type R turbo GR Yaris/Corolla Anything with B58 (MKV Supra/x40i) Anything BMW in General Anything Audi in General Any turbo AMG RenaultSport Turbo offerings Korean Elantra N/I30N Ecoboost Mustangs Focus RS? List goes on. I would argue in the future it won't even need to go on... M3P is pretty rapid out of the box...
    • There is a way, but it's not with the same cars. You need to find the same vintage of car, that we had. Realistically, that was an affordable car with aftermarket parts around. So what people need to find is a car that had a decent base in its day, and can be modified. They're looking for a car year make of 2010 to 2015 really... Aus could have done it if Holden didn't fold as V8 commodores were cheap, and if Ford didn't get expensive thanks to COVID, then you could cheaply play with FG Barras. Realistically, those are just a bit heavier, four door skylines. I'm sure the US and UK have similar cars they could find.
    • Haha I do that.. thats when it chirps..The bit point for me is almost non-existent. Otherwise I stall it. But yes, in terms of performance, the clutch is solid af.
    • Greg speaks wisdom. These dirty old Datsuns are only value when they are cheap. When they are not cheap, there is no value. Sounds contradictory, but it's true. We are now 20 years past the hey day of modifying cheap 90s JDM cars for small amounts of money. This is a different world. If you are rich and can afford not to care about what is effectively wasting money on an old Datto shitter, then I have no reason to argue against it. But if you are wanting to experience what we all experienced back in 2005 (and I bought my car last century!) then there is no way to do it.
    • Short answer: No. Medium answer: No, because you still need to conjure the things out of thin air to bolt them to a NA to make it a NA+T. Long Answer: No - The things you need to conjure - meaning a turbo, intercooling, manifolds, exhaust, intake/manifold/piping, clutch, injectors, fuel pump, AFM (?), ECU + Wiring (woo, N/A loom fun) have to come from somewhere. You could have many scavenged these things from an OEM car that someone had upgraded from and use some of these. This will be cost prohibitive now, especially so in the USA. You'd probably pay the same for newer, upgraded components that are better than old OEM stuff from 25-30 years ago. None of these big ticket items are re-usable for the N/A car. Why not buy new and upgrade while you're there? The only real consideration is turbo and fuel sizing and determining whether you want to stay within the bounds of the OEM engine or get into rebuild territory. These limits ARE lower with a N/A motor and especially N/A gearbox at the starting point. And if you're gonna upgrade those then you may as well consider having them built to begin with. Because everyone here knows you're never far from that next engine rebuild once you start making the power you want... The cars you see on the internet and SAU etc have been built over decades. If you're really clued in... you would sell your US car to somebody for what you paid for it. You would then scour AU JDM pages or SAU and buy a car like Dose's on this forum with your powerful American Dollar. This will save you so much money in the long term. Importing it could be tricky. Or it might not because USA. I have long said the only reason 90's Japanese stuff took off was because a) Japanese people had Japanese cars so that is what they used b) Australians could import these cars to Australia with very minimal changes and use them on the road here c) Neither country had well-priced access to US or EU Sports Cars. I don't believe the JDM scene would have taken off in Australia at all if we had EU priced EU BMW M offerings, or more especially the AUS V8 Scene would never have existed if we had the multitude of US cars like Camaros, Mustangs, Corvettes at the prices you folks do. After all - Do the math. I would say put a V8 in your R34 and that's the smart way forward. It is. I did it. I know this from my own experience. But at that point there's no reason to simply not buy a C5 or C6? It would be simpler and easier and cheaper and bette-
×
×
  • Create New...