Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi All,

I am trying to make a comprehensive list of import cars and the years in which the different models were produced. So if you could please peruse over the information I have collected and advise me of any mistakes/inaccuracies that would be great. The purpose of making this list is so that I can classify performance parts under one of the corresponding descriptions.

The format is:

Common name (Chassis Code) Year Start/Month Start - Year End/Month End

180SX (PS13/KRS13) 89/4 - 91/1

180SX (RPS13/KRPS13) 91/1 - 93/12

180SX (RPS13/KRPS13) 94/1 - 96/7

180SX (RPS13/KRPS13) 96/8 - 99/1

180SX (All Series) 89/4 - 99/1

Silvia (PS13/KPS13) 91/1 - 93/10

200SX (S14/CS14) 93/10 - 99/1

200SX (S15) 99/1 - 02/8

R32 GTS (HR32) 89/5 - 94/11

R32 GTS-t (HCR32/HNR32) 89/5 - 93/8

R32 GTR (BNR32) 89/8 - 95/1

R33 GTS (HR33) 93/8 - 97/11

R33 GTS-25t (ECR33) 93/8 - 98/5

R33 GTR (BCNR33) 95/1 - 99/1

R34 GTS (ENR34) 98/5 - ?/?

R34 GTT (ER34) 98/5 - 01/6

R34 GTR (BNR34) 99/1 - 02/8

300ZX (Z31) 84/1 - 89/12

300ZX (Z32) 89/7 - 00/8

350Z (Z33) 02/08 - ?/?

Gti-R (RNN14) 92/1 - 95/12

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/126323-nissan-import-production-years/
Share on other sites

I'm just going on what I found from catalogues and the internet, if you could provide a month and year that would be awesome. I will look into all responses though.

thanks again

R32 GTS (HR32) 89/5 - 94/11

The r32 gts/gtst was only built up to and including 1993, the only r32 built in 1994 was the gtr... at least thats what i thought, probably wrong. Also i've never heard of a 1995 r32 gtr, is there such a thing?? surely any would be worth a bit if nissan stopped production in January 1995 (assuming the above information is correct)

Edited by r32line

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • No, code 21 is very straightforward. It can only be the things described in that diagnostic flow. In fact it has no way of knowing that the spark plug resistance is out of spec.
    • Hi, SteveL Thank you very much for your reply, you seem to be the only person on the net who has come up with a definitive answer for which I am grateful. The "Leak" was more by way of wet bubbles when the pedal was depressed hard by a buddy while trying to gey a decent pedal when bleeding the system having fitted the rebuilt BM50 back in the car, which now makes perfect sense. A bit of a shame having just rebuilt my BM50, I did not touch the proportioning valve side of things, the BM50 was leaking from the primary piston seal and fluid was running down the the Brake booster hence the need to rebuild, I had never noticed any fluid leaking from that hole previously it only started when I refitted it to the car. The brake lines in the photo are "Kunifer" which is a Copper/Nickel alloy brake pipe, but are only the ones I use to bench bleed Master cylinders, they are perfectly legal to use on vehicles here in the UK, however the lines on the car are PVF coated steel. Thanks again for clearing this up for me, a purchase of a new BMC appears to be on the cards, I have been looking at various options in case my BM50 was not repairable and have looked at the HFM BM57 which I understand is manufactured in Australia.  
    • Well the install is officially done. Filled with fluid and bled it today, but didn't get a chance to take it on a test drive. I'll throw some final pics of the lines and whatnot but you can definitely install a DMAX rack in an R33 with pretty minor mods. I think the only other thing I had to do that isn't documented here is grind a bit of the larger banjo fitting to get it to clear since the banjos are grouped much tighter on the DMAX rack. Also the dust boots from a R33 do not fit either fyi, so if you end up doing this install for whatever reason you'll need to grab those too. One caveat with buying the S15 dust boots however is that the clamps are too small to fit on the R33 inner tie rod since they're much thicker so keep the old clamps around. The boots also twist a bit when adjusting toe but it's not a big deal. No issues or leaks so far, steering feels good and it looks like there's a bit more lock now than I had before. Getting an alignment on Saturday so I'll see how it feels then but seems like it'll be good to go       
×
×
  • Create New...