Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Its me again. I think Ive blown a headgasket on my Silvertop RB20DE. I was wonder, When I did my water pump, it was identical to the RB30E water pump. My question is, is the RB30 head gasket the same as the RB20 head gasket?

There is a $130 dfference, and I'm quite poor. Is it hard to get the head off? Should I watch for anything?

Thanks

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/126485-rb20de-head/
Share on other sites

well actually i believe u can shodan (but...im probably wrong again :blush: )

its just that u rarely do cause they are a smaller combustion chamber and buggery small ports :(

about the gasket itself - im not sure - but i do no that a rb26 gasket is the same as a rb30 - but probably not as reliable :(

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/126485-rb20de-head/#findComment-2339017
Share on other sites

from the r33 rb30 thread, I am sure that you still have to weld up oil galleries and so on. I'll go and have a check. It can be done, but its alot of work - and since the bore is so much smaller (as you say), I find it doubtful the gasket would fit properley.

Get the real rb20 gasket. cheaper than having to buy it anyway when the rb30 gasket blows out, and you have to pull the head off.... again.... for the same problem.

Oh - and about SHODAN:

part the first

part the second

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/126485-rb20de-head/#findComment-2339474
Share on other sites

Its me again. I think Ive blown a headgasket on my Silvertop RB20DE. I was wonder, When I did my water pump, it was identical to the RB30E water pump. My question is, is the RB30 head gasket the same as the RB20 head gasket?

There is a $130 dfference, and I'm quite poor. Is it hard to get the head off? Should I watch for anything?

Thanks

You must use an rb20 gasket nothing else will fit.

Have you checked the price of an rb20 head gasket from Nissan

I priced a genuine gtr rb26 gasket and it was only $77

If the genuine rb20 gaskets are more than that I'll sell you one for $70.

Pm me if you are interested.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/126485-rb20de-head/#findComment-2339914
Share on other sites

You must use an rb20 gasket nothing else will fit.

Have you checked the price of an rb20 head gasket from Nissan

I priced a genuine gtr rb26 gasket and it was only $77

If the genuine rb20 gaskets are more than that I'll sell you one for $70.

Pm me if you are interested.

I'll keep that in mind, and I'll give them a cal l tomorrow. I'll let you know. Thanks!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/126485-rb20de-head/#findComment-2341706
Share on other sites

Ok, I rang Nissan. and they wanted 116.25 >.<

Ive got 14 bolts on either side of the head, there are three left in the middle, and they appear to be a little larger then 10MM. Do these bolts need to come out in order to get the head off? Or are they just for something else inside the head.

Its really stiff to get the head off, so I'm not sure if I need them out. Any help would be great as soon as possible as I'm trying to get the head off today!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/126485-rb20de-head/#findComment-2348228
Share on other sites

Ok, I rang Nissan. and they wanted 116.25 >.<

Ive got 14 bolts on either side of the head, there are three left in the middle, and they appear to be a little larger then 10MM. Do these bolts need to come out in order to get the head off? Or are they just for something else inside the head.

Its really stiff to get the head off, so I'm not sure if I need them out. Any help would be great as soon as possible as I'm trying to get the head off today!

There will be two or three smaller (8mm from memory) bolts outside the head that also need to be undone. One is at the front near the water inlet, the others are at the back. This is based on an RB25 and RB30 so RB20 my be slightly different.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/126485-rb20de-head/#findComment-2348486
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • For once a good news  It needed to be adjusted by that one nut and it is ok  At least something was easy But thank you very much for help. But a small issue is now(gearbox) that when the car is stationary you can hear "clinking" from gearbox so some of the bearing is 100% not that happy... It goes away once you push clutch so it is 100% gearbox. Just if you know...what that bearing could be? It sounding like "spun bearing" but it is louder.
    • Yeah, that's fine**. But the numbers you came up with are just wrong. Try it for yourself. Put in any voltage from the possible range and see what result you get. You get nonsense. ** When I say "fine", I mean, it's still shit. The very simple linear formula (slope & intercept) is shit for a sensor with a non-linear response. This is the curve, from your data above. Look at the CURVE! It's only really linear between about 30 and 90 °C. And if you used only that range to define a curve, it would be great. But you would go more and more wrong as you went to higher temps. And that is why the slope & intercept found when you use 50 and 150 as the end points is so bad halfway between those points. The real curve is a long way below the linear curve which just zips straight between the end points, like this one. You could probably use the same slope and a lower intercept, to move that straight line down, and spread the error out. But you would 5-10°C off in a lot of places. You'd need to say what temperature range you really wanted to be most right - say, 100 to 130, and plop the line closest to teh real curve in that region, which would make it quite wrong down at the lower temperatures. Let me just say that HPTuners are not being realistic in only allowing for a simple linear curve. 
    • I feel I should re-iterate. The above picture is the only option available in the software and the blurb from HP Tuners I quoted earlier is the only way to add data to it and that's the description they offer as to how to figure it out. The only fields available is the blank box after (Input/ ) and the box right before = Output. Those are the only numbers that can be entered.
    • No, your formula is arse backwards. Mine is totally different to yours, and is the one I said was bang on at 50 and 150. I'll put your data into Excel (actually it already is, chart it and fit a linear fit to it, aiming to make it evenly wrong across the whole span. But not now. Other things to do first.
    • God damnit. The only option I actually have in the software is the one that is screenshotted. I am glad that I at least got it right... for those two points. Would it actually change anything if I chose/used 80C and 120C as the two points instead? My brain wants to imagine the formula put into HPtuners would be the same equation, otherwise none of this makes sense to me, unless: 1) The formula you put into VCM Scanner/HPTuners is always linear 2) The two points/input pairs are only arbitrary to choose (as the documentation implies) IF the actual scaling of the sensor is linear. then 3) If the scaling is not linear, the two points you choose matter a great deal, because the formula will draw a line between those two points only.
×
×
  • Create New...