Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Yeah I was thinking of putting it there in the corner of the windscreen, but I just didnt like it over there, so just ran a tiny bit more tubing and wiring and whacked it on the steering column and prefeered it there so left it there.

Mine doesnt have a cup or anything, just the boost guage with a single bit of normal sticky tape holding it down :) very proffessional look :P

I'll go get a gauge holder for it, one day..... :(

  • Replies 47
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Where have ppl picked up boost from on inlet man.? I was thinking of picking up from brake booster vac line.

(what he said) :(

There is an unused nipple on the back of the inlet plenum, it has a cover on it, series 1 anyway.

Edited by munchdesign
heres mine.. good old double sided tape from manufacturer

id rather ti be easy to pinch that have everything ripped apart

I like this thinking, but I don't like the idea of it flying off and hitting me in the head in an accident. A 2 5/8" mechanical gauge would be a pretty serious weapon... Ouch!

Cheers

Luke

Tried to mount my boost gadge on the dash 2day with double sided tape and it wouldn't stay. So I sat it cup holder until I get time to make alu. bracket mounting from hand brake release. I really only hooked it up 4 tuning and to see what boost we r running after full 3" ex., K+N panel filter. I have got an R32gtst w/gate act. I am going to fit, so we will see if they hold 10psi then tune SAF-C. I will take gadge out once tuned. Go the Stagea!!!

  • 4 months later...

Hijack alert... :thumbsup: I have started making some gauge pods for the Stagea which should be ready in early-mid Jan. Single pod and double pod to replace the clock and single pod at the base of the A-pillar. See THREAD HERE for more info.

i like the triple din cluster - are they the drift guages in the $175 kit...? can remember who theat was through.... looks good though.

Im lookin forward to mearcats guage holders, for where the clock sits.

i like the triple din cluster - are they the drift guages in the $175 kit...? can remember who theat was through.... looks good though.

Im lookin forward to mearcats guage holders, for where the clock sits.

I like it too, it's a shame you can't choose which guages you get when you order a Defi DIN-guage cluster, it would make it so much easier!

Not sure if those ones in that shot are the same ones, but Just Jap are doing AutoGuage packages as a group buy for that price...

:P The ones in Logans car are "drift" brand. Same diff, really, with the blacked out faces when turned off. I recently put three into a mates Exa -

post-24895-1165214482.jpgpost-24895-1165214579.jpg

They are a good looking guage, but im not sure of the accuracy on the Drift ones. I had a boost guage in my car for a lil bit, made some funny noises lol

you can't expect three gauges for $175 to be accurate... you'll pay easily more than that for one name brand gauge most of the time.

for example,I recently picked up three defi bf's to put into my stagea. water temp,oil temp, oil pressure and a controller II unit for $650.

will look good in the clock and pillar positions I expect.

Justin...

you can't expect three gauges for $175 to be accurate... you'll pay easily more than that for one name brand gauge most of the time.

for example,I recently picked up three defi bf's to put into my stagea. water temp,oil temp, oil pressure and a controller II unit for $650.

will look good in the clock and pillar positions I expect.

Justin...

Exactly, that's why I'd prefer to wait, save up, and get full electronic guages too. I love the Defi's, just wish I could afford them sooner (as well as all the other mods I wanna do). :P:laugh:

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • f**king around with the bro
    • Ludenham   44.2 tops day no issues  
    • Then today, I went to visit a man with an r33 hat Peter and Road and Race sorted the alignment. As it is being set up for general track/hillclimbs etc it has a heap of caster (7o), less camber than I am used to (1o front and 2o rear, as the caster looks after that in turns without the braking downsides), 3mm front toe out and 0 toe rear. Will see how that goes and track tyre wear to see if it does need more camber, but adjsustment is also limited with nismo arms and adjustable bushes at only 1 end. It does have a bent inner tie rod on the driver's side front but as it came up within spec I'll just leave that as is. So, that is getting close to my chapter of this story....could of tidy ups then a shakedown in early October before it finds a new home.
    • So, it went to Unigroup for a run in and tune on Friday, everything went (generally) well. In terms of fixes, the engine was good and there were no leaks. It needed plugs (I hadn't checked them because the coil pack cover was on a new engine and I couldn't imagine they weren't new.....but turns out the temporary plugs to just keep it sealed up were in there.....new plugs gapped to 0.8 and it was fine from there. Also, there was a little preload on the clutch slave which caused some slip. I haven't had the box off so I don't know what the clutch looks like; my guess it is brand new and the pedal had not been adjusted....backed that off a bit and it held fine. Last thing will have Dose crying....the idle especially when cold is a bit difficult between the cams, forward plenum, atmo blow off valve and an 80s air management system. It is fine when hot but a little uneven when cold, will see if I can sort or at least improve that one cold morning. Other than that, tuning went fine. It made 245 but was pulled back to 227 which 2 opportunities to improve in future. 1. The factory CAS is not great and was jumping around at high RPM, so Mark took 2 degrees out up top (that is why it stops making power and lost 20kw). Very safe this way and the extra power is available but will require a more modern ECU and better cam (or even better crank) sensor 2. The 2871 in factory housings is very big for a low mount, and the internal wastegate is too small, so it was creeping from mid range all the way to redline....the duty cycle on the boost controller is turned down a little for safety. That is much harder to fix, it would need a large external gate and that would require a whole bunch of other changes, so it will go as it is for now. It feels nice and healthy and safe, so should be good for about a billion laps like this.
    • what sort of caliper are they? If they are a slider and you gave everything a good clean, you might need to regrease the pins. My guess though is they will come good after some abuse as suggested above
×
×
  • Create New...