Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Basically if theres no street lights around i really struggle to see. All is dark. Almost mooshed a wombat the other day, but saw it just in time. My lights seem to be pointed down alot but idk if that makes sense, because when i put high beams on there aimed up nicely. So yeh, will i be able to just adjust my lights or will it be beams to, (off the top of my head im pretty sure its 1 unit and aiming beams up any higher = illegal) or will i have to grab some new globes for it? Or is it a sealed unit and will i have to buy new lenses to? Thx

Oh yeh its a r32 gts-t

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/127344-r32-gts-t-crap-lights-from-stock/
Share on other sites

I thought mine were pretty crappy too, and I was told that 32 GTST headlights are pretty poor from factory. They also run the power through the switch in the dash, rather than the usual relay, which means more resistance and less voltage getting through to headlights.

You have the option of changing to a brighter (whiter) light, these are available at any of the car accessory stores, ie., autobarn, supercheap, repco etc... I just got standard replacement headlight bulbs (H1 - 55W) for my 32 and even they seemed brighter than the old ones I had in there, but there were options to go 30% brighter, and 50% brighter at the store aswell, for a little bit more money. Make sure you still get 55W globes as higher watts does not generally mean it's a brighter light, and will melt fuses and connections in a r32 (trust me I know from experience).

Still brighter than that you start to head into the 'blue tinge' type headlights which are probably brighter again, but a fair bit more expensive.

Fixxxer :)

blue headlights are harder to see with than yellow. don't go any blue'r than the narva arctic blue, or phillips blue vision (crystal and diamond vision bulbs aren't legal). also the blue vision are only as bright as a standard bulb, and crystal and diamond vision aren't as bright. i have driven a car that had diamond vision bulbs as high beam bulbs and they were absolutely crap. they were really hard to see with.

i use the blue vision and find them a bit hard to see with in the wet (r33). i'm going to put them as my highbeams and get some +50 for my low beam.

Ahh true, ive heard that the blue were illegal in some shades as well, so i probably wasnt going to steer that way. Was going to try find something white. That said i think ill skip on the Honda Accord Light install as well, that guy's crazy.

most really white lights are still illegal.

it goes yellow-white-blue in the colour range.

my mate has the crystal vision and they are a white light, but aren't that bright..... and aren't legal. the blue lights are only good in the fog as they shine through, rather than reflect (i saw a 4wd or fishing show one day where they were testing different spotties in the fog and the blue were much better).

the +50 are going to be the brightest. the other option you have is to rewire the system so it uses a relay instead of running the power through the switch. but that would be a pain of a job, and might not make a difference.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • It would be well worth deciding where you want to go and what you care about. Reliability of everything in a 34 drops MASSIVELY above the 300kw mark. Keeping everything going great at beyond that value will cost ten times the $. Clutches become shit, gearboxes (and engines/bottom ends) become consumable, traction becomes crap. The good news is looking legalish/actually being legal is slighly under the 300kw mark. I would make the assumption you want to ditch the stock plenum too and want to go a front facing unit of some description due to the cross flow. Do the bends on a return flow hurt? Not really. A couple of bends do make a difference but not nearly as much in a forced induction situation. Add 1psi of boost to overcome it. Nobody has ever gone and done a track session monitoring IAT then done a different session on a different intercooler and monitored IAT to see the difference here. All of the benefits here are likely in the "My engine is a forged consumable that I drive once a year because it needs a rebuild every year which takes 9 months of the year to complete" territory. It would be well worth deciding where you want to go and what you care about with this car.
    • By "reverse flow", do you mean "return flow"? Being the IC having a return pipe back behind the bumper reo, or similar? If so... I am currently making ~250 rwkW on a Neo at ~17-18 psi. With a return flow. There's nothing to indicate that it is costing me a lot of power at this level, and I would be surprised if I could not push it harder. True, I have not measured pressure drop across it or IAT changes, but the car does not seem upset about it in any way. I won't be bothering to look into it unless it starts giving trouble or doesn't respond to boost increases when I next put it on the dyno. FWIW, it was tuned with the boost controller off, so achieving ~15-16 psi on the wastegate spring alone, and it is noticeably quicker with the boost controller on and yielding a couple of extra pounds. Hence why I think it is doing OK. So, no, I would not arbitrarily say that return flows are restrictive. Yes, they are certainly restrictive if you're aiming for higher power levels. But I also think that the happy place for a street car is <300 rwkW anyway, so I'm not going to be aiming for power levels that would require me to change the inlet pipework. My car looks very stock, even though everything is different. The turbo and inlet pipes all look stock and run in the stock locations, The airbox looks stock (apart from the inlet being opened up). The turbo looks stock, because it's in the stock location, is the stock housings and can't really be seen anyway. It makes enough power to be good to drive, but won't raise eyebrows if I ever f**k up enough for the cops to lift the bonnet.
    • There is a guy who said he can weld me piping without having to cut chassis, maybe I do that ? Or do I just go reverse flow but isn’t reverse flow very limited once again? 
    • I haven’t yet cut the chassis, maybe I switch to a reverse flow. I’ve got the Intercooler mounted as I already had it but not cut yet. Might have to speak to an engineer 
    • Yes that’s another issue, I always have a front mount, plus will be turbo plus intake will big hasstle. I’ve been told if it looks stock they’re fine with it by a couple others who have done it ahahaha.    I know @Kinkstaah said the stock gtt airbox is limiting but I might just have to do that to avoid a defect so it atleast looks legit. Or an enclosed pod so it’s hidden away and feed air from the snorkel and below Intercooler holes like kinstaah mentioned. Hmm what to do 
×
×
  • Create New...