Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 107
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

how long will it take to receive delivery of the product after the purchase date of the 31st? as i have to change my oil pretty soon lol.. but im in for one as well for RB25 pending your answer :laugh:

how long will it take to receive delivery of the product after the purchase date of the 31st? as i have to change my oil pretty soon lol.. but im in as well pending your answer :angry:

You should get them a couple of days after Oxford transfers the money and it clears.

the buy is sposed to be ending tomorrow guys please advise if still interested!!so i can finalise the buy.

at this stage we have only 10 people that have paid up and a few that have pulled out, but there are a few remaining that have not let me know if they wanna go ahead.

so 10 ppl does that mean have to transfer $45 instead of the $41?... (since most ppl have transferd $41)

count me in for '90 RB26

will send payment once i get which price to pay lol

I paid last week, you really need to let people know if they're payment has been recieved mate. especially since the end date has come and gone...

I'd just like to know if the money has reached you or not...

hiya all

just to let ya know that the group buy will be finalised on monday and all the deposits from people will be paid to the distributor on tues or wed.

so hopefully they will be sent out to you guys by the weekend.

but if you would still like one i will be buying a few extras to have if ppl are still keen, only difference will be they will cost $41 plus postage(instead of $41 including postage)

cheers oxford.

hello all

just to let you all know i finalised the purchase of the valves today and they should all be delivered by weeks end hopefully as promised.

cheers oxford

Edited by oxford1327

06-09-13_17-43.jpg

...now that i do have the valve and can finally get around to changing the engine oil, what should i replace the oil with? (weight, brand etc)

hiya andy

i use MOTUL oils in both my bikes and my cars, they are good quality without being horrendesly expensive, 5ltrs of turbolight 4100 which is a 10/40 weight oil should set you back around $45-50 depending on where ya get it. when you do the oil change don't forget to put a light smear of oil (clean of course)around the gasket surface of the valve to assist in it sealing correctly.

as these oils have scrubbers added in them when you change it, it should come out black as this means it has cleaned the carbons and silts out of your system.

if the oil comes out cleanish so to speak it means it has not really been decarbonising anything inside the engine, which over time can lead to earlier than normal bearing damage or failure.

hope this helps.

cheers oxford

Edited by oxford1327
Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The rain is the best time to push to the edge of the grip limit. Water lubrication reduces the consumption of rubber without reducing the fun. I take pleasure in driving around the outside of numpties in Audis, WRXs, BRZs, etc, because they get all worried in the wet. They warm up faster than the engine oil does.
    • When they're dead cold, and in the wet, they're not very fun. RE003 are alright, they do harden very quickly and turn into literally $50 Pace tyres.
    • Yeah, I thought that Reedy's video was quite good because he compared old and new (as in, well used and quite new) AD09s, with what is generally considered to be the fast Yokohama in this category (ie, sporty road/track tyres) and a tyre that people might be able to use to extend the comparo out into the space of more expensive European tyres, being the Cup 2. No-one would ever agree that the Cup 2 is a poor tyre - many would suggest that it is close to the very top of the category. And, for them all to come out so close to each other, and for the cheaper tyre in the test to do so well against the others, in some cases being even faster, shows that (good, non-linglong) tyres are reaching a plateau in terms of how good they can get, and they're all sitting on that same plateau. Anyway, on the AD08R, AD09, RS4 that I've had on the car in recent years, I've never had a problem in the cold and wet. SA gets down to 0-10°C in winter. Not so often, but it was only 4°C when I got in the car this morning. Once the tyres are warm (ie, after about 2km), you can start to lay into them. I've never aquaplaned or suffered serious off-corner understeer or anything like that in the wet, that I would not have expected to happen with a more normal tyre. I had some RE003s, and they were shit in the dry, shit in the wet, shit everywhere. I would rate the RS4 and AD0x as being more trustworthy in the wet, once the rubber is warm. Bridgestone should be ashamed of the RE003.
    • This is why I gave the disclaimer about how I drive in the wet which I feel is pretty important. I have heard people think RS4's are horrible in the rain, but I have this feeling they must be driving (or attempting to drive) anywhere close to the grip limit. I legitimately drive at the speed limit/below speed the limit 100% of the time in the rain. More than happy to just commute along at 50kmh behind a train of cars in 5th gear etc. I do agree with you with regards to the temp and the 'quality' of the tyre Dose. Most UHP tyres aren't even up to temperature on the road anyway, even when going mad initial D canyon carving. It would be interesting to see a not-up-to-temp UHP tyre compared against a mere... normal...HP tyre at these temperatures. I don't think you're (or me in this case) is actually picking up grip with an RS4/AD09 on the road relative to something like a RE003 because the RS4/AD09 is not up to temp and the RE003 is closer to it's optimal operating window.
    • Either the bearing has been installed backwards OR the gearbox input shaft bearing is loosey goosey.   When in doubt, just put in a Samsonas in.
×
×
  • Create New...