Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Ive looked all over the forum and many others.. So i thought id ask you guys..

Im installing a fmic on my 32 this weekend, Im just wondering if anybody has any steps to go by.. Ive had a look without removing my front bar.. :)

And it seems like im going to need to Relocate the horn.. And that i mite need to cut my bar a bit from the inside... Will i need to cut holes to allow the bigger Pipes to go thru.. Ive bought a Piping Kit.

Is there anything else i should prepare myself for, or have read.. ei. Drills/Grinders etc.. :D

Hope ive put in enough information.. :D

Thanks -antonio

Edited by antonio
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/127886-intercooler-installation/
Share on other sites

ok depending on what kit you have it will vary difficulty wise

but yeah a good set of screw drivers ,grinder and a few cutting discs

you will need to make a hole about 2.75icnh above the rail ,not that hard but

but if you have a turn flow cooler you wount need to worrie about that.

but yeah look its pretty easy once you lay it all out . mount the cooler first

and the try a pipe fron the turbo side and make sure it fits ok ,if not just keep adjusting

it untill such time, oohh and you need a tap mesure 4 sure , i would allow 2 days to do it

and modifing you bar etc. horn go up on the bonnet catch , just small bit of customissing

to be done, but look just take you time and make sure you have some one there to help

as it is hard trying to hold 3 things at once...

good luch with the install.

if you get lost there is many pics of 32 and 33 which are really the same

to install on here with then done ,just search 4 em :D

basically the best way to do it is:

Find out exactly where the hole is meant to go, drill it with a drill and use an angle grinder to make it smooth.

Remove front bar, measure how much u need to cut or find out from the net and then mount the cooler onto the front support bar.

Put bar back onto car and mount the piping

Thats about it.

Also u might need to reconnect a vacuum hose that was attached to the cold pipe b4 the plenum on the stock pipe, this may not be the case tho for r32.

PM if u got nemore questions

Just a question re: reconnecting the vacuum hose before the plenum ( the hose that gets pressure for boost control and actuator)

Any problems with mounting it on the plenum as my pipe has no nipple to mount off? I know many ppl are doing this but will the vacuum on negative boost do any damage to the actuator or boost controller?

Cheers

Just a question re: reconnecting the vacuum hose before the plenum ( the hose that gets pressure for boost control and actuator)

Any problems with mounting it on the plenum as my pipe has no nipple to mount off? I know many ppl are doing this but will the vacuum on negative boost do any damage to the actuator or boost controller?

Cheers

U can reconnect it to the vacuum hose that comes of the actuator. I did it and have no problems

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Sounds like you've got an interesting adventure ahead here with local support if you have trouble! My guess is that, unboosted, you will be OK with a small upgrade like -9. What will happen is that once the stock ECU sees more airflow than it expects it will add a heap of fuel and pull a heap of timing to be safe because it can't understand how it could get that much air without there being an issue. You will see clouds of black smoke and it won't pull hard through the midrange and top end. So, overall it will be a bit frustrating but should be OK. If you are still nervous set the base timing back 2o through the CAS, but it will be even more sluggish everywhere. As said above through...this is not my guarantee your engine won't be blown into a million pieces, leaving you looking for very hard to find parts A better idea is get a computer with logging ASAP, wire in a wide band O2 sensor and a use remote tuner. I've done multiple cars this way and while it is not as good as a specific tune on a dyno they can get it 90% right. I'd suggest if you can afford an R33 GTR these days you can afford an ECU and tune. And if you can't afford that you sure won't be able to afford the rebuild if it goes bad in the meantime,.  
    • Yeah it would be nice if someone took the time to put that sort of information together, but there are a lot of variations in looms. I think you are making this way hard for yourself if you just want to get it running....sourcing an SR20 with the right wiring will be a billion times easier than matching the RB loom to an S15 chassis. If you do end up going this way, you just need to trace every wire in the loom with a multimeter, 95% of them will go to a location you can confirm at the ECU.....and then post it up for the next person who needs it  
    • Just top it up with water, and keep a general idea of how much you added. It is normal for water to be pushed into and pulled out of the reservoir through the cap, and it should not be more than half full or it will be likely to overflow when hot. Any decent mechanic can do a pressure test of the cooling system to confirm if you have a leak. Keep in mind if it is only leaking a little and when hot it may well evaporate before you see it hit the ground
    • I'd ask the shop what they used and use that. Mixing coolants is sometimes OK, sometimes not, and you have know the details of each coolant to know whether it's a good idea or not.
    • Is it alright to top up with just another green coolant?
×
×
  • Create New...