Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey guys,

im just wondering about how i would go about cleaning the valve body on my auto box.

is it just a matter of pulling it out and giving it a scrub?

also, what is the oil capacity of the auto box in the r33 gtst's?

cheers.

i changed it, it seemed to be around 3-3.5L, also consider ive got an aftermarket oil cooler.

i might do a DIY on how to do all this including how to clean out the filter as i took pics as i went along.

let me know if there is any interest and i'll put it all together.

cheers.

i didnt even bother trying for the torque converter. just did a filter clean.

i wanted to take my valve body off and give it a clean but i couldnt be bothered at the time. the oil change has almost wiped out my 'getting stuck in 1st' problem, it used to do it almost 15 times a day. it only did it a few times earlier tonight, and by the end of the night it was running smooth.

i have heard that you can do the following to get all the fluid out.. but it doesn't clean the filter for you..

- undo the hose to the radiator for the stock transmission cooler

- place one end into a bucket

- start engine

the fluid will pump out in very quick time

then turn car off immediately after fluid is out

then fill her up!

i'm not game to do this, however, as i'm not sure if having the transmission running without fluid, even for 2 seconds, would be a problem or not

anyway, glad it went well for you

post up a guide if you can be bothered :wave:

i have heard that you can do the following to get all the fluid out.. but it doesn't clean the filter for you..

- undo the hose to the radiator for the stock transmission cooler

- place one end into a bucket

- start engine

yeah i dont think it'll be a good idea to do that either. in the instruction manual for the davies craig trans cooler kit i got, it said to do that just to determine which hose is the feed and which is the return.

also, the car only did the getting stuck in first thing once today. i want to take my valve body off and give it a clean. i plan to run my car down the 1/4 and i dont want it happening to me then either.

i'll post up the guide soon :happy:

  • 3 weeks later...

for a quick flush pull a line off the trans cooler prefer after the cooler for a cooler flush aslo.

get a bucket big bucket.

get some fluid lots of it.

run the car with the hose off and faced in the bucket.

at the same time fill the box with cleen fluid

watch the fluid comming from the hose in to the bucket and when it comes cleen turn off motor

reconnect lines and check fluid level

CAUTION: IT WILL TAKE MORE THAN 10L SO HAVE LOTS OF FLUID HANDY

20L of dextron 3 cost me 80 something dollars (been awhile)and it also helps im a mechanic with access to the w/shop on the weekend...

Edited by rb25_vl

I'll be attempting wat rb25_vl typed above this week.....one hose in wif one going out...

Although i didnt know you could use Dexron III....always thought it was something else????

Can anyone else confirm?

...Although i didnt know you could use Dexron III....always thought it was something else????

Can anyone else confirm?

Yeah Nissan specify to use Dexron III, Ive been using Castrol Transmax Z for the past 11,000+kms & with 107,000 on the clock & over 200kw atw the trans still goin strong :happy:.

Edited by pkblade

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The chart of front pressure to rear pressure (with one being on the x axis and the other being on the y axis) is not a straight line on a typical proportioning valve. At lower pressures there is a straight line with one slope, and at higher pressures that changes to a lower slope. That creates a bend in the line at that pressure, called the knee point. If you do not change the proportionng as the pressure gets higher, you will suffer excessive pressure (at one end of the car or the other, depending on which way you look at the proportioning action) and then get lockups at that end. The HFM BM57, from my memory of previous discussions, is based on the BM57 from a different car (to a Skyline), with a different requirement for the location of the knee point and the distribution of pressure front to rear, and so is not a good choice for an upgrade on a Skyline. Here's a couple of links to some old posts, one from here, one from elsewhere. A lot of it pertains to adjustable prop valves, but the idea is the same. There are plenty of discussions on here about this issue from al the many years of people wanting a cheap/accessible option. https://grassrootsmotorsports.com/forum/grm/learn-me-brake-proportioning-valves/236880/page1/ https://grassrootsmotorsports.com/forum/grm/learn-me-brake-proportioning-valves/236880/page1/  
    • Yeah dunno why johhny posted that here with no context, just post on FB/insta bro where he put it up?  Laine had an off at T4 during Thurs prac, he's ok, car is less than perfect, they are done for the weekend, he can fill in the rest. Bando also binned it like 100m up the road.   
    • I feel there must have been a FB/insta post and the weekend did not start well at all I hope everyone is all okay
    • Yeah, I guess its pretty easy to get to if this doesn't work. Just wait till next oil change and pull it out. I am going to have to do the oil pan gasket soon and thought I'd just replace it while I was there.  Thanks
    • All that matters is you're safe and you were able to type that post. Hopefully heaps of parts you can recover for the next shell.  
×
×
  • Create New...