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Wanted: Pics Of Your Spark Plugs

Cubes

By Cubes,
in Engines & Forced Induction

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Cubes Grand Master

Cubes

Posted
Posted

Hi ppls,

If any one has recently done a set of sparkys and still has them laying around would you be so kind as to throw your digi camera in to macro mode and take a few snaps at various angles of the sparky, be sure to let me know what heat range they are, power your making and wot afr.

Thanks ppls :cheers:

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R33S2 Grand Master

R33S2

Posted
Posted

I pulled out these iridiums a while ago, they had done 30,000kms at 212kw, I posted them up att and got good feedback, i put them back in after a light clean and have done 10k kms since. They are gapped at .8 and a heat range of 7.

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Cubes Grand Master

Cubes

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Thanks for the pics..

Its really hard to check out the sparky's at such a distance.. Looks as if you've been running some kind of octane boost or fuel additive though. :P

What would be really nice is to throw your camera in macro mode (every digital camera has this function now) and take a nice close picture of the electrode/strap etc..

Cubes Grand Master

Cubes

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Here's a few pics I had laying around in the bottom of my toolbox that were pulled out after the motor had been detonating a little..

They are a BCPR6E NGK plug.

I will clean them up with carby cleaner to see if I can tell if they were the correct heat range for the application. (by looking at the strap)

Apparently you can tell if a motors been detonating by looking at the center ceramic and looking for what looks like pepper. U know that ground black pepper, very small granuals. AND... I can't see it by the eye but in one pic you will see a shinny silver dot on one of the pictures, this is apparently a little bit of alloy from the piston and what not that sweats during detonation.

I tried to clean the center pics strap a little to see if I could see the heat marking. Apparently the colour should differ preferably before the elbow, if its well before or not at all then the plug is too cold, if its close to the weld then the plug is too hot.

Excessive black crap around the thread lip is a sign light load afr's are too rich. At wot it apparently doesn't have time to settle.

I Think..... Which is the reason for this thread. To learn. :P

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r33_racer Grand Master

r33_racer

Posted
Posted

Yeh i was taught, if its got silver specs then its detonating and they are aluminium particles. You should see like a light line down the shoulder of the return, sorta 3/4 down, if its too far down near the actual thread lip its running too hot, if its too far up near the start then its running too cold, so go figure inbetween would say its running ideal. So long as there is no detonation.

Good to see more then one person has the same idea of plug reading:)

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