Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey guys

just looking at peoples opinions on polishs and wax, i currently use autoglym, but not really happy with the shine! im after i shine u can count how many teeth u got! what do u guys recommend? and something thats last im sicking polishing my car every second day

Edited by ali-turko
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/128481-polisheswax/
Share on other sites

Internet is a wonderful place.

So many different forums for all kinds of things.

Anyway, here is something I came across on a barge forums.. I mean Soarer forum..

Hope you got some time and money on your hands..

But once you are done, you’ll be able to see that bit of chicken you got between your front teeth there..

http://soarercentral.com/sc-forum/messages...html?1153124760

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/128481-polisheswax/#findComment-2377482
Share on other sites

stop telling lies all of you!!!!

This is what i use, and ill follow up with some pics

Firstly i give her a wash using Johsons & Johnsons baby shampoo, with a Meguirs Lambswool wash mit.

Then a chamois with a Meguirs Microfibre chamois

Then a coat of Meguirs Paint Cleaner

Then a coat of Meguirs Deep Crystal Polish

Then leave that overnight

Then a coat of Autoglym Synthetic Wax

Leave that sit overnight

Then a coat of Turtle Wax Carnuaba Wax

This is what it looks like. This is of my old 33, n was a few days after it was all done, will be doing it to the gtr soon.

img1174vi2.th.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/128481-polisheswax/#findComment-2377587
Share on other sites

stop telling lies all of you!!!!

This is what i use, and ill follow up with some pics

Firstly i give her a wash using Johsons & Johnsons baby shampoo, with a Meguirs Lambswool wash mit.

Then a chamois with a Meguirs Microfibre chamois

Then a coat of Meguirs Paint Cleaner

Then a coat of Meguirs Deep Crystal Polish

Then leave that overnight

Then a coat of Autoglym Synthetic Wax

Leave that sit overnight

Then a coat of Turtle Wax Carnuaba Wax

This is what it looks like. This is of my old 33, n was a few days after it was all done, will be doing it to the gtr soon.

img1174vi2.th.jpg

here are the things wrong with that..

Firstly i give her a wash using Johsons & Johnsons baby shampoo, with a Meguirs Lambswool wash mit.

do not use human products on the car, is designd to moisture rise a baby, so it has alot of oil in it, which will sit on the surface of your car.. the mits are crap, all they do is scratch as they get cloggd with dirt

Then a chamois with a Meguirs Microfibre chamoi

Then a coat of Meguirs Paint Cleaner

its crap

Then a coat of Meguirs Deep Crystal Polish

its crap

Then leave that overnight

why?

Then a coat of Autoglym Synthetic Wax

why? you already used the meguiers, theres no point waxing over wax

Leave that sit overnight

Then a coat of Turtle Wax Carnuaba Wax

why? you already used the autoglym, theres no point waxing over wax

meguiers is shit house, autoglym is much better..

But i use zymol, german products.

http://www.zdoau.com/

it is the best, nothing comes even close..

edit: i could get a better finish that yours, cheaper, and quicker..

wash car.

clay car with 3M paint clay, its removes fallout and other things on the surface.

wax car using zymol cleaner wax ($60) it will fill small scratches and hide swirl marks, has %17 canuba, and will out gloss most other things of the same price ont he market and last longer..

You can get up to %90 canuba in the zymol range, obviously they get more expensive, but its the best..

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/128481-polisheswax/#findComment-2377614
Share on other sites

all that stuff was recommended by Will Wax You...so dont ya think they'd know a thing or too about it? :no:

Also the idea of putting on dual layers is to give the efect of both the synthetic and natural waxes. If you look at show cars, they dont just have one layer, and one type of wax, they use mutliple layers of differing types.

Reason u let them dry is so they set, or you dont bring out their true qualities if you just do them back to back.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/128481-polisheswax/#findComment-2377891
Share on other sites

all that stuff was recommended by Will Wax You...so dont ya think they'd know a thing or too about it? :laugh:

Also the idea of putting on dual layers is to give the efect of both the synthetic and natural waxes. If you look at show cars, they dont just have one layer, and one type of wax, they use mutliple layers of differing types.

Reason u let them dry is so they set, or you dont bring out their true qualities if you just do them back to back.

no, show cars use natural wax;s with high canuba to give it taht mega gloss, there is no point in waxing over wax, it wont make a difference..

and dont let it dry, thats when you scratch the paint taking it off. i know the techwax is easier to take off dry, but, i dont like it as it gives nasty streaks

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/128481-polisheswax/#findComment-2378702
Share on other sites

Well - i just used Meguiars Mirror Glaze Swilrl Remover 2.0

And I still have swirls............

Buggger !

My experience with Meguiares is this:

Dark Blue car with bad swirls...

Deep Crystal Paint Cleaner : to remove old waxes and buildup. (run fingers over paint work..is it rough? buildup!)

Then I used the Swirl Remover... it got alot of swirls out, but not all...

Then I followed up with the hi-tech yellow wax.

It looked alot better!!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/128481-polisheswax/#findComment-2380146
Share on other sites

its not "build up" its fall out, its shit in the air that lands and sits on your car...

If you park at a trainstation youll have rail dust all over your car.

the best way is to clay your car..

also, the swirl remover dosnt remove them, it just hides them, thats why after afew washes they are back,

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/128481-polisheswax/#findComment-2380820
Share on other sites

this is a good site as to why you would clay a car, and how

http://www.autogeek.net/megovclay.html

its about $38 for the kit at most auto one/Peps auto etc shops

you buy the kit with a meguirs spray that lubes the clay bar and the small clay bar itself

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/128481-polisheswax/#findComment-2381119
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, SteveL Thank you very much for your reply, you seem to be the only person on the net who has come up with a definitive answer for which I am grateful. The "Leak" was more by way of wet bubbles when the pedal was depressed hard by a buddy while trying to gey a decent pedal when bleeding the system having fitted the rebuilt BM50 back in the car, which now makes perfect sense. A bit of a shame having just rebuilt my BM50, I did not touch the proportioning valve side of things, the BM50 was leaking from the primary piston seal and fluid was running down the the Brake booster hence the need to rebuild, I had never noticed any fluid leaking from that hole previously it only started when I refitted it to the car. The brake lines in the photo are "Kunifer" which is a Copper/Nickel alloy brake pipe, but are only the ones I use to bench bleed Master cylinders, they are perfectly legal to use on vehicles here in the UK, however the lines on the car are PVF coated steel. Thanks again for clearing this up for me, a purchase of a new BMC appears to be on the cards, I have been looking at various options in case my BM50 was not repairable and have looked at the HFM BM57 which I understand is manufactured in Australia.  
    • Well the install is officially done. Filled with fluid and bled it today, but didn't get a chance to take it on a test drive. I'll throw some final pics of the lines and whatnot but you can definitely install a DMAX rack in an R33 with pretty minor mods. I think the only other thing I had to do that isn't documented here is grind a bit of the larger banjo fitting to get it to clear since the banjos are grouped much tighter on the DMAX rack. Also the dust boots from a R33 do not fit either fyi, so if you end up doing this install for whatever reason you'll need to grab those too. One caveat with buying the S15 dust boots however is that the clamps are too small to fit on the R33 inner tie rod since they're much thicker so keep the old clamps around. The boots also twist a bit when adjusting toe but it's not a big deal. No issues or leaks so far, steering feels good and it looks like there's a bit more lock now than I had before. Getting an alignment on Saturday so I'll see how it feels then but seems like it'll be good to go       
    • I don't get in here much anymore but I can help you with this.   The hole is a vent (air relief) for the brake proportioning valve, which is built into the master cylinder.    The bad news is that if brake fluid is leaking from that hole then it's getting past the proportioning valve seals.   The really bad news is that no spare parts are available for the proportioning valve either from Nissan or after market.     It's a bit of a PITA getting the proportioning valve out of the master cylinder body anyway but, fortunately, leaks from that area are rare in my experience. BTW, if those are copper (as such) brake lines you should get rid of them.    Bundy (steel) tube is a far better choice (and legal  in Australia - if that's where you are).
×
×
  • Create New...