Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I suggest Final Inspection Seal, for protection and looks...

This is the car after it's detail. 1 x pass of FI Orange pad with Menzerna IP 3.01, 1 x pass of FI Black with Menzerna Final Finish - LSP is 2 x Final Inspection 'Seal'.

Flat panels (bonnet/bootlid/roof) had a bit mor FI orange passes with the IP 3.01. It's not 100% perfect, but i think you'll agree she's looking alright ;)

and the ubiquitous reflection shots :P No photoshopping, these are actually the panels on my car

IMG_1446.jpg

this is the roof

IMG_1447.jpg

bonnet

IMG_1448.jpg

shit you not, this is just my cars bonnet

IMG_1449.jpg

sun spots to show any imperfections

IMG_1450.jpg

trying to show off the metallic flake, sun shots will show the swirls/spider webbing/marring etc

IMG_1451.jpg

Final Inspection Seal is a high clarity sealant. This is just straight paint correction, no filler products have been used at all.

IMG_1452.jpg

reflections shots don't always tell the full story, so i tried to get more sun shots

IMG_1453.jpg

Checkout the bootlid and even the rear windscreen got a machine polish and wax (1 x FI Seal, 1 x P21s carnauba wax)

IMG_1454.jpg

IMG_1455.jpg

This is the front passenger guard i believe. Trying to show a proper paint correction. Again no filler products have been used, this is the actual condition of the paint

IMG_1456.jpg

not quite full sun...

IMG_1457.jpg

love the side mirror reflection in this

IMG_1458.jpg

sparkle sparkle

IMG_1459.jpg

something about the shape of front guards. Just show of a good detail so well, great depth and gloss

IMG_1460.jpg

not to forget the bonnet again either :)

IMG_1461.jpg

i did do the entire car :)

IMG_1462.jpg

IMG_1463.jpg

just got back from a drive to get some E85, so the back of the car is a little dusty

IMG_1464.jpg

mmm more silky Seal goodness

IMG_1465.jpg

chrome finish anyone :D

IMG_1466.jpg

IMG_1468.jpg

can't even tell where the car stops and the garage begins almost :D

This should see 6-8 months of protection with a good washing procedure. Enough to last throughout winter ready for a summer detail :)

  • 1 month later...

highly recommend Final Inspections sealant range if you want protection.

If your car lives outside a lot, go for FI Seal Strong (1 year), but if the opposite, FI Seal would be fine and a cheaper alternative. You can multi layers of Seal like i have which would give you plenty of protection. I've got about 4 layers down now and this would see out 12months i would think, with good washing procedure. But Seal Strong is definitely a much beefier option straight off the first layer.

Both can be topped with your Carnauba wax of choice for a depth and gloss, and it looks like you have a dark coloured GTR, so this would work nicely.

But prep is key, at the bare minimum clay your car first.

Do you know if that Final Inspections Sealant Range is silicon based? ^^

Being a hobby spray painter, I've seen what silicon based waxes and polishes can do to your paint, don't wanna use it on my car. But if that stuff isn't silicon based then it looks great!

definitely not. These aren't your off the shelf autobarn products :P

silicone is nasty, and that goes for the solvent laden products you find about the place (especially the service station sold F1W or whatever it is)

Great stuff, good to hear other people know the effects of silicon on paint :blush:

So where do you buy this stuff from? Seeing your car, I'm definitely keen to spend a bit extra to really look after my car. Do you buy it online?

hey guys,

does anybody know anything that helps with drying? i find that one of the most troublesome parts of washing my car ...

atm im using a leather chamois, but looking for something new soon, anybody got any suggestions?

is there any way to speed up or make drying easier?

also, anybody know a good product to quickly clean rims of all the build up? are any of the rim cleaners any good?

and what would you guys recommend for a quick spray wax? ive got the meguiars ultimate quik detailer atm

last question, sorry, what do you guys think of "wash and wax" products? I wouldnt really use it on my skyline, but for the hyundai accent ... haha

thanks

Edited by Jonno34

Have you tried autoglym aqua wax?

spray on while the car is still wet

spread with microfiber towel

buff off after with clean microfiber

sposedly has a fair bit of carnuba so acts as a good top up for your wax too

quick easy an smells like bubblegum

one of autoglyms better products

if you go to the trouble of wetsanding, my wreck all your working by applying a glaze with fillers at the end? :):D

"Nothing wrong with it as long as you know how to use it....the paste is messy stuff as it requires alot of water to keep it fluid, its absolutely uselss once it dries out and does nothing but goes crusty..."

sounds to me like there's A LOT wrong with it... don't have ANY of those issues with Menzerna

DTSNR32: you can apply Menz by hand, but it won't remove much more than perhaps what you're describing. A good applicator obviously is a must... checkout finalinspection.com.au as they have some great 'slip on the hand' type MF products that would be ideal for trying to polish by hand.

No there isn't anything wrong with it albeit old fashioned. Polishes have different characteristics in terms of work time, cutting ability and finish. Sticking to just one product doesn't doesn't leave you with much of an aresenal when tackling different types of cars/paintwork.

As an example of some of these characteristics, I prefer Farecla's G3 compound over others when it comes to spot compoundng out wetsanding marks. It breaks down quickly, cuts fast and can do so with minimal heat.

  • 2 weeks later...

My mate needs help , i think his car already has a teflon coating on the body and window glass

from the previous owner , we are wondering if the car can still have the maguires 5 step system applied to it, wash, claybar , paint cleaner, pro polish , nxt wax ,

with no hassels or damage to paint work from the teflon . ;)

Edited by NISSAN GTR
hey guys,

does anybody know anything that helps with drying? i find that one of the most troublesome parts of washing my car ...

atm im using a leather chamois, but looking for something new soon, anybody got any suggestions?

is there any way to speed up or make drying easier?

also, anybody know a good product to quickly clean rims of all the build up? are any of the rim cleaners any good?

and what would you guys recommend for a quick spray wax? ive got the meguiars ultimate quik detailer atm

last question, sorry, what do you guys think of "wash and wax" products? I wouldnt really use it on my skyline, but for the hyundai accent ... haha

thanks

i use a really good quality full size towel , to get the bulk water off espescially in winter , and then use a chamois ! Works great , try it !!!!!

Yea +1 for a large towel. Pref microfibre. YOu can buy large ones at most auto places.

OCW is a great spray wax, which i use between full waxing.

You get these from Final Inspection or carcareproducts.com.au i have used these guys a fair bit.

I dont know about you guys but i love having an arsenal of cleaning products for my car.

I have found from experience that paying that little extra is well worth it.

Thanks guys, what kinda chamois do you use? leather or synthetic?

I've just picked up one of meguiars "water magnet" microfiber towels, and a few microfibers as well, and ill see which works best thanks :thumbsup:

chamois scratches??

i always thought they were very good for drying never knew it was scratching my paintwork :ninja:

I have a few of the meguiars water magnet MF towels, are they similar to the Final inspection ones?

large towel????????? dear jeebus, please no!

Final Inspection Waffle Weave MF, best drying cloth you'll ever use.

Chamois will scratch, relegate to glass perhaps

I think will all know a good leather chamois and microfibre towel will never scratch if the car is washed properly . SS8 Gohan = ?

any opinion on a synthetic chamois?

my leather ones been working great, works better than all the MF cloths i have at home, but ill see how the waffle weave ones go ..

atm ive been using the leather shammy to get the bulk of the water off and a MF cloth to get any leftover spots of water

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • @Kapr Haha yeah thats the one. I missed that you had a built up engine, I wouldn't want to run it on there either then. It was good in my situation just to replace the original turbo on a stock engine. @MBS206Yep definitely not a replacement for anything name brand
    • You are selling this? I have never bought something from marketplace...i dont know if i trust that enough. And the price is little bit "too" good...
    • https://www.facebook.com/share/19kSVAc4tc/?mibextid=wwXIfr
    • It would be well worth deciding where you want to go and what you care about. Reliability of everything in a 34 drops MASSIVELY above the 300kw mark. Keeping everything going great at beyond that value will cost ten times the $. Clutches become shit, gearboxes (and engines/bottom ends) become consumable, traction becomes crap. The good news is looking legalish/actually being legal is slighly under the 300kw mark. I would make the assumption you want to ditch the stock plenum too and want to go a front facing unit of some description due to the cross flow. Do the bends on a return flow hurt? Not really. A couple of bends do make a difference but not nearly as much in a forced induction situation. Add 1psi of boost to overcome it. Nobody has ever gone and done a track session monitoring IAT then done a different session on a different intercooler and monitored IAT to see the difference here. All of the benefits here are likely in the "My engine is a forged consumable that I drive once a year because it needs a rebuild every year which takes 9 months of the year to complete" territory. It would be well worth deciding where you want to go and what you care about with this car.
    • By "reverse flow", do you mean "return flow"? Being the IC having a return pipe back behind the bumper reo, or similar? If so... I am currently making ~250 rwkW on a Neo at ~17-18 psi. With a return flow. There's nothing to indicate that it is costing me a lot of power at this level, and I would be surprised if I could not push it harder. True, I have not measured pressure drop across it or IAT changes, but the car does not seem upset about it in any way. I won't be bothering to look into it unless it starts giving trouble or doesn't respond to boost increases when I next put it on the dyno. FWIW, it was tuned with the boost controller off, so achieving ~15-16 psi on the wastegate spring alone, and it is noticeably quicker with the boost controller on and yielding a couple of extra pounds. Hence why I think it is doing OK. So, no, I would not arbitrarily say that return flows are restrictive. Yes, they are certainly restrictive if you're aiming for higher power levels. But I also think that the happy place for a street car is <300 rwkW anyway, so I'm not going to be aiming for power levels that would require me to change the inlet pipework. My car looks very stock, even though everything is different. The turbo and inlet pipes all look stock and run in the stock locations, The airbox looks stock (apart from the inlet being opened up). The turbo looks stock, because it's in the stock location, is the stock housings and can't really be seen anyway. It makes enough power to be good to drive, but won't raise eyebrows if I ever f**k up enough for the cops to lift the bonnet.
×
×
  • Create New...