Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Seems a little different to other Series 2's

Please Pm me as well if not to much hassle

ECR33-133451

GGKBRTFR33VDAAA-AA

Ant info would be awsome

Thanks

this vin kept coming up with errors, but the model code showed this:

post-34711-1244612803_thumb.jpg

post-34711-1244613094_thumb.jpg

Thanks for that,

One question, how will I know if it's V-spec or not - I remember someone told me 'W' on model number indicates it's V-spec, is this right?

Cheers

Grant

Hi,

Was given this vin for a 93 R32 GTR:

6t91mpaaapxavh008

Has no 6U9000 infront.

Eng no: is rb26003690a

Unfortunately that's one of the ones where they just made up a new aussie VIN rather than the usual prefixing the jap one with 6U90000. You're gonna need to get the jap VIN off the firewall, as there's nothing we can do from the engine no or aussie VIN (my 33 was the same...).

Unfortunately that's one of the ones where they just made up a new aussie VIN rather than the usual prefixing the jap one with 6U90000. You're gonna need to get the jap VIN off the firewall, as there's nothing we can do from the engine no or aussie VIN (my 33 was the same...).

Ok, guess ill have to get the one on the firewall.

Thanx for your help :)

Note that you can feed the following web page your Aus VIN & RAWS approval Plate # to get the particulars on the complaince process for your car:

http://raws.dotars.gov.au/rawswebpublic/RAWPubVehSearch.asp

Like most of us, you probably have a version that pre-dates the '35.

However there are some who have passed the tests and been granted the next level

:)

soz dude, bit off topic... but is your dr30 the one that was in parked in front of turbo tune recently?

*grumbles about wasting 2.2gb of his 100gb on junk*

Guess I can help out others!

So there is a newer version floating around? The stag I'm trying to search is only a 2001 and this listing said 2005!

You need to speak to someone who has the later version of FAST for advice on that one - 2.2GB sounds a bit small.

soz dude, bit off topic... but is your dr30 the one that was in parked in front of turbo tune recently?

Nope - it was entered in AJD though.

:)

Thanks for that,

One question, how will I know if it's V-spec or not - I remember someone told me 'W' on model number indicates it's V-spec, is this right?

Cheers

Grant

Anyone know the answer to this?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • My guesstimate, with no real numbers to back it up, is it won't effect it greatly at all.its not a huge change in position, and I can't see the air flow changing from in turbulence that much based on distance, and what's in front of it. Johnny and Brad may have some more numbers to share from experience though.
    • Which solenoid? Why was it changed? Again, why was this done? ...well, these wear..but ultimately, why was it changed? Did you reset the idle voltage level after fitment? I'm just a tad confused ~ the flash code doesn't allude to these items being faulty, so in my mind the only reason to change these things, would be some drive-ability issue....and if that's the case, what was the problem? Those questions aside, check if the dropping resistor is OK ...should be 11~14 ohms (TCU doesn't throw a flash code for this) ~ also, these TCU designs have full time power (to keep fault code RAM alive), and I think that'll throw a logic code (as opposed to the 10 hardware codes), if that power is missing (or the ram has gone bad in the TCU, which you can check..but that's another story here perhaps).
    • Question for people who "know stuff" I am looking at doing the new intake like the one in the picture (the pictured is designed for the OEM TB and intake plenum), this design has the filter behind the front bar, but, the filter sits where the OEM duct heads into the front bar, and the standard aperture when the OEM ducting is removed allows the filter to pulled back out of the front bar into the engine bay for servicing, a simple blanking plate is used to seal the aperture behind the filter This will require a 45° silicone hose from the TB, like the alloy pipe that is currently there, to another 45° silicone hose to get a straight run to the aperture in the front bar Question: how will it effect the tune if I move the MAF about 100-150mm forward, the red is around where my MAF is currently, and the green would be where it would end up Like this This is the hole the filter goes through  Ends up like this LOL..Cheers    
    • Despite the level up question, actually I do know what that is....it is a pressure sender wire.  So check out around the oil filter for an oil pressure sender, or maybe fuel pressure near the filter or on the engine. Possibly but less likely coolant pressure sensor because they tend to be combined temp/pressure senders if you have one. Could also be brake pressure (in a brake line somewhere pre ABS) but maybe I'm the only one that has that on a skyline.
    • Pull codes via the self-diagnosis procedure. As far as I can tell this is just a sign of transmission issues but not a code unto itself.
×
×
  • Create New...