Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Usually on the 4th line of boxes where it has GTR if it were a vspec it would have GTR/V or GTR-V in there so yours is unfortunatly not a vspec

Ah, thanks for the answers.

This chassis number is one off carsales that I'm quite keen on (the ad said V-Spec, I thought I'd check with FAST to be sure).

mmm I have one. Ran it through FAST when i bought it but the program has since been evicted by parental units, and im interested in dissecting the model code to find out if the car is a V spec or not. there are a few things that suggest that it is, but it wasnt old as one, ec.

So for the sake of curiosity, if we could -

BCNR33 041082.

Please =D

mmm I have one. Ran it through FAST when i bought it but the program has since been evicted by parental units, and im interested in dissecting the model code to find out if the car is a V spec or not. there are a few things that suggest that it is, but it wasnt old as one, ec.

So for the sake of curiosity, if we could -

BCNR33 041082.

Please =D

i'd say its not. in the attached screen shot you can see the 6th letter along in the model code (with the small red line i drew under it) is a Q. in the model code breakdown window the the Q with the red line i drew before it means just a normal GTR. further down you will see the blue line i drew with the letter W next to it that means V-Spec.

post-34711-1244939756_thumb.jpg

i'd say its not. in the attached screen shot you can see the 6th letter along in the model code (with the small red line i drew under it) is a Q. in the model code breakdown window the the Q with the red line i drew before it means just a normal GTR. further down you will see the blue line i drew with the letter W next to it that means V-Spec.

post-34711-1244939756_thumb.jpg

Thank you =D

I've posted in one other FAST thread, but this one seems more popular, it's my baby of 2 years,so I'll ask here as well, i'd love a screen shot (here or email isaac AT islade DOT com)

6U9000ECR33009874

Thanks :blink:

here ya go

post-16070-1245309248_thumb.jpg

I need to confirm if BNR34-401788 is an N1: can you help please.

Also have the following

GGJPRWYR34ZDA--1--

Thanks muchly

It's shown in FAST as a 'GTR/V2' which would be a 'V-Spec 2' if there was such a thing for the R34. So I can only assume that translates to an N1?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi all, Restoring r33 series 1 rb25det. All the heater hoses were on their way out, have replaced them and put it all back together. After testing I noticed a small leak from behind the head on the actual metal water line to the turbo when cars warm. I tried running a longer hose over it but it kept leaking...   I am about to take the (stock) manifold off again😔 to change the water line does any one have any lines they recommend? I was looking at Aeroflow Turbo Oil & Water Line Set but not sure what everyone else recommends. Car is completely stock but want to upgrade turbo eventually. it looks like ill have to disconnect a lot just to replace these lines so if there's anything else recommended to do please let me know. Thank you in advance!
    • From memory, on the R33 GTSt at least, while everyone says "It's not adjustable", I found when I changed clutches in mine, it just needed a small adjustment on the rod length. But be very wary here, as you could end up trying to push the pushrod in the master too far, or blowing out the slave.   Most likely though, if the master/slave isn't bypassing internally or leaking out, then the throw out is the wrong height compared to the fingers on the clutch, so when it moves to disengage the clutch, it isn't 100% disengaged. You can check part of this out too by jacking the car up, having the engine running, put your foot on the clutch and try to engage 1st gear. If it goes in pretty easy (Compared to the ground) and/or the wheels start turning a fair bit and it takes a bit too much brake pedal to bring them back to a stop, this is likely the issue.  I'm not sure if you can adjust the height of the forks etc in these though, it's been that long since I've touched any RB gearbox.
    • That's all good, I thought I was missing some interesting feature! Maybe @PranK can double check if that is something that is meant to be operating or not.
    • I hope that is not something that bad. From what i remember he said that only first gear is "hard" to get in and that he has couple of ideas what to try next but idk 😕  hope it is not gearbox out. I will let you know.
    • If it's not the hydraulics, it is probably gearbox back out. Usually as per @Duncan's post, or otherwise associated with not getting the throwout fork positioned correctly. All the way up to catastrophically bolting shit back together without it being aligned properly and wrecking the clutch/input shaft/flywheel/something else.
×
×
  • Create New...