Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

thought i might add the model number too. just trying to confirm its a genuine vspec

GGJPRQFR33ZDA-APBC

Sorry dude doesn't seen to be V spec (33's list as GTR/V, the vin just shows GTR)

post-68505-1283491084_thumb.jpg

Cheerz Bundy

EDIT

Ogsm BCNR33-000102 also comes up invalid 4 me

Edited by BundyBear
Hmm, thats really strange it has everything that a VSPEC does. Can you be certain that it isnt?

Here is an actual VSPEC BCNR33-041741 maybe do this also so I can compare

Model number is GGJPRWFR33ZDAAAQ-C

http://www.users.on.net/~goofyhsk/info/chassis_plate.html

According to this site, if there is a "Q" in the model number (like the one you asked if it was a v spec) then its a regular GTR. If theres a "W" in the model number (like the one you posted that is a v spec) then it is a v spec GTR.

Just had a look through all the 33 gtrs i have FASTed before, all the v specs say "GTR/V" and have the "W" in the model number. And all the regular 33 gtrs say "GTR" and have the "Q" in the model number.

Thats for BNR32 not BCNR33 they have different model numbers

If someone could fast this it would be a big help

BCNR33-041741

Model number - GGJPRWFR33ZDAAAQ-C

MP-R33

I'm pretty sure, I've looked a few of these up. I know Fast DOES Specify if a vin is vspec, howevey FAST is not perfect, there are a couple of errors and this vehicle may be one of those

I'd sujest do'n a search on SAU, there are pages dedicated to decoding the model number ( I thing certain Chars could equate to Vspec, but can't remember anymore, )

beyond that get a vspec owner to look the car ova, they are more likley to spot any little that may be out

Well Nissan fast states that its a 1997/7 GTR which confirms that its a Series 3. The thing that puzzles me is that I was always under the impression that ALL series 3 GTR's where VSPEC's but then again i could be wrong

ooooowww not sure just a lowly gts-t driver but its possible, search is always your friend

The Bear

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • just an update to this, poor man pays twice  Tried sanding down the pulleys but it didnt do the trick. Chucked another second hand alternator in the na car which I got for free off my mate and its fixed the squelling. Must have been unlucky with the bearings.    As for my turbo car, I managed to pick up a cwc rb alternator conversion bracket + LS alternator for 250 off marketplace, looked to be in really good nick. Installed it , started the car and its not charging the battery.... ( Im not good with auto elec stuff so im not sure if this was all I needed to do but I verified such by using a multimeter on the battery when the engine was running and I was only getting 12.2v )   I had to modify the earth strap for the new LS alternator , factory earth strap was a 10mm bolt which did not fit the bolt on the LS alternator which was double the size so I cut it off , went to repco bought some ring terminals that fit, crimped it onto the old earth strap and bolted it up to the alternator , started the car and same issue. Ran like shit and was reading 12.2 at the battery.  For a "plug and play" advertised kit thats not very plug and play but alas.  My question is , am I missing something ? Ive been reading that some people recommend upgrading the stock 80 amp alternator fuse to a 140 amp but I dont see how that would stop the alternator charging especially at idle not under load.  Regardless ive pulled it out and am going to get it bench tested by an auto elec tomorrow but it would be handy to know if ive missed something silly or have done something wrong.   
    • My wild guess is that you have popped off an intake pipe....check all of the hoses between the turbo and the throttle for splits or loose clamps.
    • Awesome, thanks for sharing!
    • To provide more specific help, more information is needed. What Android screen? What is its wiring diagram? Does the car's wiring have power at any required BAT and ACC wires, and is the loom's earth good?
    • So, now all you need to do is connect the 2 or 3x 12v feeds into the unit to permanent 12v, ACC 12V and IGN 12V that you can find in the spot behind the stereo, and the earth, and then it will switch on with the car.
×
×
  • Create New...