Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey everyone just after a bit of advice.

My brother is just about to buy a r33 4 door. He asked me is it worth paying the extra couple of grand to get series 2? I wouldnt really know because i drive a 32, so If some of you 33 drivers out there could enlighten me on some of the differences between S1 and 2 it would b much appreciated.

Cheers. Ben

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/128666-r33-s1-vs-s2/
Share on other sites

Internally......different coils to a series one. turbo has a plastc compressor wheel (series one has a metal one), both have ceramic exhaust wheel. Engine is the same and so is the gearbox etc.

Or if you mean internally as in Dash etc, the S2 has a nicer looking airbag steering wheel, dash is the same but surround is slightly different (the platic is more textured and the coin holder on the right of the steering wheel is gone).

I am sure there is some more but cant think of it all right now. I think that the S2 is worth the extra $$ for the updated front end.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/128666-r33-s1-vs-s2/#findComment-2379252
Share on other sites

i imported a stock clean R33 series 1 5spd turbo sedan for $11500 inc on road costs.

I would expect you would pay upwards of $14K on the road for a clean series 2 5spd turbo sedan.

Can you show me a 5 speed S2 GTST thats Turbo and $14k or $15k Id will buy it today, thats about the price Im paying for my R33 GTST S2 Auto.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/128666-r33-s1-vs-s2/#findComment-2380568
Share on other sites

Can you show me a 5 speed S2 GTST thats Turbo and $14k or $15k Id will buy it today, thats about the price Im paying for my R33 GTST S2 Auto.

Checking the jap auction sites, the price they go for would making $15K a reasonable figure for one. If you are buying locally from a yard or privately, you will pay more.

I bought mine through autoworx, cost me 260,000yen direct from the auctions. I didnt enquire about Series 2 turbo manual sedans as I didnt want one, but surely they would only be $3-4K more than a series 1.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/128666-r33-s1-vs-s2/#findComment-2385589
Share on other sites

  • 4 weeks later...
Hey everyone just after a bit of advice.

My brother is just about to buy a r33 4 door. He asked me is it worth paying the extra couple of grand to get series 2? I wouldnt really know because i drive a 32, so If some of you 33 drivers out there could enlighten me on some of the differences between S1 and 2 it would b much appreciated.

Cheers. Ben

Paul from Autoworx wrote a R33 Skyline buyers guide which covers how to tell the difference between a Series 1 and Series II. Its free - I think you just have to sign up to the email newsletter to get the info. Heres the link http://www.autoworx.com.au/mail.htm

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/128666-r33-s1-vs-s2/#findComment-2453165
Share on other sites

Series one is better :P

Series II has different lights and a bit of a squarer front (to tell yo uthe truth its down to personal preference but i've never been a fan of the 2)

The series II has the airbags from memory.

Tell him to buy mine Ben :blink: its not a four door but what the heck - throw on some roof racks n store the kids up there :)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/128666-r33-s1-vs-s2/#findComment-2453205
Share on other sites

HAHA thx Lauren

he bought a car. Ended up buying off someone from here, i cant remember who though.

Its a white SII done 80,000 km, nearly dead stock besides bigger front lip and 17's. he paid $16500. Its very tidy.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/128666-r33-s1-vs-s2/#findComment-2455041
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Nah - but you won't find anything on dismantling the seats in any such thing anyway.
    • Could be. Could also be that they sit around broken more. To be fair, you almost never see one driving around. I see more R chassis GTRs than the Renault ones.
    • Yeah. Nah. This is why I said My bold for my double emphasis. We're not talking about cars tuned to the edge of det here. We're talking about normal cars. Flame propagation speed and the amount of energy required to ignite the fuel are not significant factors when running at 1500-4000 rpm, and medium to light loads, like nearly every car on the road (except twin cab utes which are driven at 6k and 100% load all the time). There is no shortage of ignition energy available in any petrol engine. If there was, we'd all be in deep shit. The calorific value, on a volume basis, is significantly different, between 98 and 91, and that turns up immediately in consumption numbers. You can see the signal easily if you control for the other variables well enough, and/or collect enough stats. As to not seeing any benefit - we had a couple of EF and EL Falcons in the company fleet back in the late 90s and early 2000s. The EEC IV ECU in those things was particularly good at adding in timing as soon as knock headroom improved, which typically came from putting in some 95 or 98. The responsiveness and power improved noticeably, and the fuel consumption dropped considerably, just from going to 95. Less delta from there to 98 - almost not noticeable, compared to the big differences seen between 91 and 95. Way back in the day, when supermarkets first started selling fuel from their own stations, I did thousands of km in FNQ in a small Toyota. I can't remember if it was a Starlet or an early Yaris. Anyway - the supermarket servos were bringing in cheap fuel from Indonesia, and the other servos were still using locally refined gear. The fuel consumption was typically at least 5%, often as much as 8% worse on the Indo shit, presumably because they had a lot more oxygenated component in the brew, and were probably barely meeting the octane spec. Around the same time or maybe a bit later (like 25 years ago), I could tell the difference between Shell 98 and BP 98, and typically preferred to only use Shell then because the Skyline ran so much better on it. Years later I found the realtionship between them had swapped, as a consequence of yet more refinery closures. So I've only used BP 98 since. Although, I must say that I could not fault the odd tank of United 98 that I've run. It's probably the same stuff. It is also very important to remember that these findings are often dependent on region. With most of the refineries in Oz now dead, there's less variability in local stuff, and he majority of our fuels are not even refined here any more anyway. It probably depends more on which SE Asian refinery is currently cheapest to operate.
    • You don't have an R34 service manual for the body do you? Have found plenty for the engine and drivetrain but nothing else
    • If they can dyno them, get them dyno'd, make sure they're not leaking, and if they look okay on the dyno and are performing relatively well, put them in the car.   If they're leaking oil etc, and you feel so inclined, open them up yourself and see what you can do to fix it. The main thing you're trying to do is replace the parts that perish, like seals. You're not attempting to change the valving. You might even be able to find somewhere that has the Tein parts/rebuild kit if you dig hard.
×
×
  • Create New...