Jump to content
SAU Community

Auto Getting Stuck In 1st Gear

SECURITY
 Share

Recommended Posts

SECURITY Grand Master

SECURITY

Posted
Posted

hey guys, i know theres another thread but it didnt seem to be the right solution. im sure ive got it this time :P

i was sitting around wondering why sometimes while in 2nd it would drop into 1st and stays there, especially on bumpy roads or while going over speed hump. i also wondered why pushing the snow button shifts it into 2nd electronically.

i figured it would be something electrical rather than mechanical, so i thought i'd try the throttle position sensor and see where that takes me, so i loosened it, played with it a bit till my idle was sitting right again (adjusting your TPS adjusts your idle), i tightened it back up, took it for a drive and its been fine ever since. for some reason shifts are alot smoother too.

i did this 2 days ago and ever since its been fine.

what are your opinions? can someone with the sticky 1st issue try this and see if it works for them too?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/128698-auto-getting-stuck-in-1st-gear/
Share on other sites
SECURITY Grand Master

SECURITY

Posted
  • Author
Posted
the snow button cuts first gear so when you take of in the snow or slippery conditions it stops wheel spin by taking off in 2nd

yep.

but i was saying thats how i get it out of first when it used to get stuck in 1st.

SECURITY Grand Master

SECURITY

Posted
  • Author
Posted
15) Once the car is warmed up disconnect the TPS (Throttle Position Sensor) See pic below circled in red, it is on the opposite side to where the throttle wire rotates the throttle butterfly.

See where the car idles. Now depending on where it's idling depends how you turn the screw (AAC one, not the computer one), turning it clockwise lowers the idle, anti-clockwise increases idle. You want to aim for 900rpm. Once you have this by adjusting the AAC idle screw, reconnect the TPS connection with the car running, see if the revs change. If they do, you're now going to have to adjust them on the computer (see this is why we got it out).

It's the OPPOSITE on the computer to the AAC valve screw: Clockwise=increase idle, Anti-Clockwise=decrease idle.

You can move the idle in 50rpm incriments so i'm told and at total variation of 250rpm, so DO NOT OVERTURN THIS COMPUTER CONTROLLED IDLE. This is only a fine tuning mechanism.

(Note if you have an R32, the connection you have to disconnect when adjusting the idle is actually the brown electrical connector on the AAC assembly, not the TPS)

post-20406-1147857716.jpg

I didn't actually need to move my computer controlled rev, as my revs didn't change once I put the TPS electrical connector back in.

i found that, its a good guide to re-adjust it.

i got it off here...

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...howtopic=110431

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • MidnightR32
      Cold compression test after rebuild... should I be worried?

      By MidnightR32 · Posted

      This is for an RB20DET. Sorry for not including that. 
    • MidnightR32
      Cold compression test after rebuild... should I be worried?

      By MidnightR32 · Posted

      Welp, this is where my compression lands after my rebuild. Thoughts? I have ~6 hours on the motor. 
    • Keeper
      SAUNSW - Cruise - Albion Park Aviation Museum - 9th August

      By Keeper · Posted

      Event details are now up!
    • GTSBoy
      Another little story of weird shit happening

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Well, after the full circus this week (new gearbag, 14 psi actuator on, injectors and AFM upgraded, and.....turbo repair) the diagnosis on the wastegate is in. It was broken. It was broken in a really strange way. The weld that holds the lever arm onto the wastegate flapper shaft broke. Broke completely, but broke in such a way that it could go back together in the "correct" position, or it could rearrange itself somewhere else along the fracture plane and sit with the flapper not parallel to the lever. So, who knows how and when exactly what happened? No-one will ever know. Was it broken like this the first time it spat the circlip and wedged itself deep into the dump? Or was it only broken when I tried to pry it back into place? (I didn't try that hard, but who knows?). Or did it break first? Or did it break between the first and second event of wierdness? Meh. It doesn't matter now. It is welded back together. And it is now held closed by a 14 psi actuator, so...the car has been tuned with the supporting mods (and the order of operations there is that the supporting mods and dyno needed to be able to be done first before adding boost, because it was pinging on <<14 psi with the new turbo with only a 6 psi actuator). And then tuned up a bit, and with the boost controller turned off throughout that process. So it was only running WG pressure and so only hit about 15-16 psi. The turbo is still ever so slightly lazier than might be preferred - like it is still a bit on the big side for the engine. I haven't tested it on the road properly in any way - just driven it around in traffic for a half hour or so. But it is like chalk and cheese compared to what it was. Between dyno numbers and driving feedback: It makes 100 kW at 3k rpm, which is OK, could be better. That's stock 2JZ territory, or RB20 with G series 550. It actually starts building boost from 2k, which is certainly better than it did recently (with all the WG flapper bullshit). Although it's hard to remember what it was like prior to all that - it certainly seems much, much better. And that makes sense, given the WG was probably starting to blow open at anything above about 3 psi anyway (with the 6 psi actuator). It doesn't really get to "full boost" (say 16 psi) until >>4k rpm. I am hopeful that this is a feature of the lack of boost controller keeping boost pressure off the actuator, because it was turned off for the dyno and off for the drives afterward. There's more to be found here, I'm sure. It made 230 rwkW at not a lot more than 6k and held it to over 7k, so there seems to be plenty of potential to get it up to 250-260rwkW with 18 psi or so, which would be a decent effort, considering the stock sized turbo inlet pipework and AFM, and the return flow cooler. According to Tao, those things should definitely put a bit of a limit on it by that sort of number. I must stress that I have not opened the throttle 100% on the road yet - well, at least not 100% and allowed it to wind all the way up. It'll have to wait until some reasonable opportunity. I'm quite looking forward to that - it feels massively better than it has in a loooong time. It's back to its old self, plus about 20% extra powers over the best it ever did before. I'm going to get the boost controller set up to maximise spool and settle at no more than ~17 psi (for now) and then go back on the dyno to see what we can squeeze out of it. There is other interesting news too. I put together a replacement tube to fit the R35 AFM in the stock location. This is the first time the tuner has worked with one, because anyone else he has tuned for has gone from Z32 territory to aftermarket ECU. No-one has ever wanted to stay Nistuned and do what I've done. Anyway, his feedback is that the R35 AFM is super super super responsive. Tiny little changes in throttle position or load turn up immediately as a cell change on the maps. Way, way more responsive than any of the old skool AFMs. Makes it quite diffifult to tune as you have to stay right on top of that so you don't wander off the cell you wanted to tune. But it certainly seems to help with real world throttle response. That's hard to separate from all the other things that changed, but the "pedal feel" is certainly crisp.
    • Murray_Calavera
      Steps to DIY sanding car back ready for respray....

      By Murray_Calavera · Posted

      I'm a bit confused by this post, so I'll address the bit I understand lol.  Use an air compressor and blow away the guide coat sanding residue. All the better if you have a moisture trap for your compressor. You'd want to do this a few times as you sand the area, you wouldn't for example sand the entire area till you think its perfect and then 'confirm' that is it by blowing away the guide coat residue.  Sand the area, blow away the guide coat residue, inspect the panel, back to sanding... rinse and repeat. 
×
×
  • Create New...