Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hi guys,

my ride is an 89 skyline r32 with the following mods:

blitz cat back exhaust

aftermarket ms air flow resetter

k&n air filter

hks evc III SI ebc set at 12psi which has been taken out

atm ive noticed my cars been eating alot of fuel even though,

i don't floor it or travel far.

but i have noticed one odd thing when i jump on the freeway

i was travelling at 100kph on 5th gear and the rev meter shows 2500-3000 rpm!!!

in a 60km zone i have to be in 5th gear as well or else the rpm will be too high = more petrol wasted

think i'm running roughly 15Lt/100kms? and trust me im no lead foot

wot do you guys think i should do?

cleaning the afm and air filter is what i have in mind right now, is it a good idea

or wot else should i be considering

any help would be appreciated

thanks

ryan

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/128733-bad-fuel-economy-on-my-r32/
Share on other sites

I have very similar mods to malboro and also had the shit fuel economy. Highly recommend an SAFC II massively improved my fuel economy by correcting the AFM's dodgey readings. I drive everyday and my tank is lasting at least 2 weeks.

I have very similar mods to malboro and also had the shit fuel economy. Highly recommend an SAFC II massively improved my fuel economy by correcting the AFM's dodgey readings. I drive everyday and my tank is lasting at least 2 weeks.

Do you have any figures? I just bought one of these..i'm waiting to get it installed now and i'm curious.

As for the original post, get used to it :D. You can try cleaning stuff, but have a look in the other fuel consumption threads, they're all similar. My R33 returns 14.5L/100km around town with the stock ecu at best. And don't be surprised about 2500-3000rpm, that's how they're geared. For fuel economy you should focus on keeping your boost gauge as low as possible, not so much engine speed. Not applying as much throttle in a lower gear in general will save fuel compared to using lots of throttle in a higher gear.

If you can't afford the fuel, buy a <2l economy car.

I had a 93 R32, stock as a rock bar a 3" exhaust and pod filter, stock boost even. It was a manual and recorded about 10L-10.5L/100km pretty consistently even with some heavy footed driving.

The R34 on the other hand.... hmm

Edited by Howie

hmm in a 60 litre tank im getting about 300 km's.. Thats about 20litres/100k's. Thats with a bit of hard driving a bit of relaxing so, go figure. Theres some threads around on checking your o2 sensor, that could be a contributing problem to your bad fuel economy, im to lazy to look em up, but your figures sound pretty good to me :blush:

Do you have any figures? I just bought one of these..i'm waiting to get it installed now and i'm curious.

As for the original post, get used to it :). You can try cleaning stuff, but have a look in the other fuel consumption threads, they're all similar. My R33 returns 14.5L/100km around town with the stock ecu at best. And don't be surprised about 2500-3000rpm, that's how they're geared. For fuel economy you should focus on keeping your boost gauge as low as possible, not so much engine speed. Not applying as much throttle in a lower gear in general will save fuel compared to using lots of throttle in a higher gear.

If you can't afford the fuel, buy a <2l economy car.

I used to get at best 400kms (15L/100km) to a tank now im pushing 500kms (12L/100km). Its only effective if you run more boost as the stock ecu is sufficient. Once you run more boost the ecu seems to make it run rich and blow black smoke everywhere. Out of interest what correction readings do you use mines between

-10 and -23 on low throttle and between 0 and +10 on high throttle, also getting noticeable more power low in the rev range.

I used to get at best 400kms (15L/100km) to a tank now im pushing 500kms (12L/100km). Its only effective if you run more boost as the stock ecu is sufficient. Once you run more boost the ecu seems to make it run rich and blow black smoke everywhere. Out of interest what correction readings do you use mines between

-10 and -23 on low throttle and between 0 and +10 on high throttle, also getting noticeable more power low in the rev range.

Ah, mine's not in yet, i'm waiting for new Splitfires to arrive to fix my misfire before i get the SAFC2 tuned. 12L/100km sounds like something i'd be very happy with :). But yeah, mates have told me i get plenty of black smoke under hard acceleration. I'll let you know when it's done.

my 32GTR gets 400kms for a tank apprx 65-70L

K&N panel, nismo full 3.5" xhast, stock boost, Kakimoto ecu chip.

ive heard of GTR owners only gettin a mere 200kms so i thank my stars.

Good to know. Last tank I managed a high score of 511km with pods, exhaust, stock turbos/boost, stock ECU.

Yeah you drive like a granny and end up with nice economy, but no-one buys a GT-R because it's economical... :)

My 32 sits on about 10.5L/100km. After some fair spirited driving on a cruise it went up to 11.5L/100km

I just changed to a hi-flow 3 inch Cat and sofar I've managed to get 370km and the needle is sitting just above 1/4. The stock cat was full of crap, and that can't be good for economy.

People have had good results with injector cleaner. AFM might need a clean, new spark plugs, S-AFC... they all might help.

Ive got a bosch 040 that dosent sit exactly on the bottom, so i never let it get past 1/8th remaining, i seem to get 250 and occasionally push the 300 down to that last little bit.... thats the same on the highway and the city.. damn 3grand at 100kmh dosent help.....

used to it now

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah, it's getting like that, my daughter is coming over on Thursday to help me remove the bonnet so I can install the Carbuilders underbonnet stuff,  I might get her to give me a hand and remove the hardtop, maybe, because on really hot days the detachable hardtop helps the aircon keep the interior cool, the heat just punches straight through to rag top I also don't have enough hair for the "wind in the hair" experience, so there is that....LOL
    • Could be falling edge/rising edge is set wrong. Are you getting sync errors?
    • On BMWs what I do because I'm more confident that I can't instantly crush the pinch welds and do thousands of USD in chassis damage is use a set of rubber jacking pads designed to protect the chassis/plastic adapter and raise a corner of the car, place the aforementioned 2x12 inch wooden planks under a tire, drop the car, then this normally gives me enough clearance to get to the front central jack point. If you don't need it to be a ramp it only needs to be 1-1.5 feet long. On my R33 I do not trust the pinch welds to tolerate any of this so I drive up on the ramps. Before then when I had to get a new floor jack that no longer cleared the front lip I removed it to get enough clearance to put the jack under it. Once you're on the ramps once you simply never let the car down to the ground. It lives on the ramps or on jack stands.
    • Nah. You need 2x taps for anything that you cannot pass the tap all the way through. And even then, there's a point in response to the above which I will come back to. The 2x taps are 1x tapered for starting, and 1x plug tap for working to the bottom of blind holes. That block's port is effectively a blind hole from the perspective of the tap. The tapered tap/tapered thread response. You don't ever leave a female hole tapered. They are supposed to be parallel, hence the wide section of a tapered tap being parallel, the existince of plug taps, etc. The male is tapered so that it will eventually get too fat for the female thread, and yes, there is some risk if the tapped length of the female hole doesn't offer enough threads, that it will not lock up very nicely. But you can always buzz off the extra length on the male thread, and the tape is very good at adding bulk to the joint.
    • Nice....looking forward to that update
×
×
  • Create New...