Jump to content
SAU Community

Big! Clutch Problem

Waldo
 Share

Recommended Posts

Waldo Proficient

Waldo

Posted
Posted

hey guys, just wondering what your thoughts are on this, ok my clutch is fine most of the time...but when reversing and like putting in 1st gear in traffic or just someitmes when cruising around..ill put the clutch in and go to change gears and the gear stick is hell hard to move and when i pull it out everything goes clunk as if its still got some sort of load on it....sometimes when in traffic i have clutch in and brakes on in 1st gear and the car slowly kreeps foward.. and is hard to take outta gear and i have to pump the clutch alittle to get it to free up....now i have changed the master cylinder to a brand new one cos it was leaking...and i checked the lines and the slave cylinder and it looks fine no fluid leaking anywhere.. ive bled it twice now and still same problem its as if the clutch is still slightly engaged....i want to know what the little box is that the clutch line comes out of...cos it seems pointless...to have the box. what do you guys think it is. i have a exedy heavy duty pressure plate with a 5 puck race ceramic clutch, oh and it also gets stuck in gears if you ride the clutch and get it to shudder. its pissing me off bigtime and i have the pedal adjusted all the way out so the clutch works as soon as you pretty much touch the pedal..

cheers luke

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/128853-big-clutch-problem/
Share on other sites
32DET Enthusiast

32DET

Posted
Posted

yeah that is really interesting cos i have experienced the exact same problem with my car and was able to fix it by replacing the master cylinder. Its got to be something to do with the hydraulics but i dont really know enough to be able to tell you what.

Good luck though

Al Grand Master

Al

Posted
Posted

Sounds like your clearances are up the shit. Sounds like the clutch is not fully dis-engaging, thus making it hard to take out or put into gear. When going to an aftermarket clutch, there is a colar, in the clutch assy, that may need to be modified, if this is left std, it may be too long. I am not a mechanic, so i can't go into details :.

Take it to a proper mechanic to check over it properly :rofl:

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • GTSBoy
      Help! Leak coming under transmission

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      So..... it's going to be a heater hose or other coolant hose at the rear of the head/plenum. Or it's going to be one of the welch plugs on the back of the motor, which is a motor out thing to fix.
    • MBS206
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By MBS206 · Posted

      The oil pressure sensor for logging, does it happen to be the one that was slowly breaking out of the oil block? If it is,I would be ignoring your logs. You had a leak at the sensor which would mean it can't read accurately. It's a small hole at the sensor, and you had a small hole just before it, meaning you could have lost significant pressure reading.   As for brakes, if it's just fluid getting old, you won't necessarily end up with air sitting in the line. Bleed a shit tonne of fluid through so you effectively replace it and go again. Oh and, pay close attention to the pressure gauge while on track!
    • Kinkstaah
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      I don't know it is due to that. It could just be due to load on track being more than a dyno. But it would be nice to rule it out. We're talking a fraction of a second of pulling ~1 degree of timing. So it's not a lot, but I'd rather it be 0... Thicker oil isn't really a "bandaid" if it's oil that is going to run at 125C, is it? It will be thicker at 100 and thus at 125, where the 40 weight may not be as thick as one may like for that use. I already have a big pump that has been ported. They (They in this instance being the guy that built my heads) port them so they flow more at lower RPM but have a bypass spring that I believe is ~70psi. I have seen 70psi of oil pressure up top in the past, before I knew I had this leak. I have a 25 row oil cooler that takes up all the space in the driver side guard. It is interesting that GM themselves recommend 0-30 oil for their Vette applications. Unless you take it to the track where the official word is to put 20-50w oil in there, then take that back out after your track day is done and return to 0-30.
    • PranK
      My new to me M35 Stagea wagon

      By PranK · Posted

      Nice, looks great. Nice work getting the factory parts also. Never know when you'll need them.
    • Chupapy
      New r33 owner

      By Chupapy · Posted

      Thanks @jtha7 I will have a look around tomorrow but it is a prick of a spot. These are some photos i tried taking 
×
×
  • Create New...