Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Todd,

Remembering that it's already remapped and would only need a little more dyno time probably only $180 ish all up... I am planning to come down to Nick's place again ASAP, as I would love to help you guys take advantage of the 98 ron, besides... was one of the best weekends away in years :yes:

Sam.

PS: seeing as you now have 98 I do have some pretty good maps I can post down...

Cheers Sam, sounds good to me!!

As I mentioned, I will need to get you to program me a chip to suit my GTR injectors and Z32 AFM before that time so I am able to install them and drive out to Nick's place...

I am ready whenever you come and am glad to hear that you are so I can plan for that rather than an aftermarket setup (a lot more costly when I have already modded the ECU and don't plan on changing too much after this).

Anyway, would be good if you could let me know (or just post it up on here or NS) when you plan on coming down.

Thanks again!

Todd

I was wondering if the owner of this car was on SAU.

I see your car all the time Todd, usually on the brooker after work, I am heading from moonah to kingston and I seem to see you anywhere from rugby park to cleary's gates...

Looks sweet on the road btw.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Working through possible solutions of converting my mechanical speedo.    Anyone know what type of speedo sensor the factory r34 gtr getrag has ? what the output is ? I assume its not a VSS and more a voltage like earlier speedo sensors ? Can an ECU read it ?  
    • roof rail delete used to be a thing, they were made locally for a while too
    • I can get more photos of it here soon and I plan to make a thread detailing the process. I received the car this way and it sorely needs refinishing. That is probably the most appealing photo of it. Up close it is fading, cracked, and needs to be re-glued. Depending on their condition I'm on the fence between refinishing or making a new set.  Another angle hiding the pimples and razor pumps  
    • According to this thread the RS4V with build plate RC40 comes with the R200 diff @ 4.083 ratio as well (mine has said RC40 denotation). We may need to check if the axle stubs are the same pattern as well. The auto subframes have longer axles. However I think yours being a later Series 2 as well, we should have the same bolt pattern for the diff stubs. Unless your upgraded rear also has upgraded axles. Either way, I would not be opposed to pulling the covers to check so I can inspect that  fancy rear core  Also I don't have HICAS. I don't believe that should change things but I hope the people here with heaps more experience than me can correct me if I'm wrong   Let me know if you want to attempt to make this work and I can get some pictures of mine from under the car. 
    • It's not that straightforward. For example I have had this code because my ignitor/power transistor wires were unplugged. It knows something is wrong but has no idea what it means. If you want to actually diagnose this I recommend following the service manual flowchart for code 21. Ohm out the harness, coilpacks, inspect the ECU, etc. And again, it's entirely possible for there to be no problem at all but if you're running a different coilpack it'll trigger the code because it doesn't like what it sees.
×
×
  • Create New...