Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hks super sequentials, they flutter/wooosh/whistle and all the rest, depending on how u release the throttle..

with mine, when i spool up the turbo and build up heaps of pressure in the intake pipes and release the throttle quickly it makes a woooosh sound, if i release it slowly it makes the fluttering sounds..

Edited by MKDR33
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/129271-bov/#findComment-2391193
Share on other sites

there is a massive thread covering this in forced induction (i think its in there) all about the sound BOV make. There is also a web site ffs that lets you here them. Agreed with hks super sequentials

If your putting it on a stock skyline DONT your car will more then likely stall when come to a stop, also cause other issues that are covered in lots of threads.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/129271-bov/#findComment-2391200
Share on other sites

Thats gold! LOL

I dont think that you need to worry about finding a BOV that "flutters" because just about all BOV's are very similar in design...

The noise that you want is made according to how your intake system is set up ie:

*whether you have front mount intercooler or not,

*whether your BOV is plumb back or straight to atmosphere,

*whether you have a pod filter or airbox,

*whether your boost is turned up or not...

There are many different things to factor in when playing around with the inlet... And as said in previous posts, you might have alot of trouble with your mixtures (air/fuel) if you put the wrong BOV on without doing anything else to the car first (like a programable ECU or Air fuel controller)...

BOV's basically just make different noises according to how tight the spring in them is set to.

Happy hunting though :)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/129271-bov/#findComment-2392799
Share on other sites

hmmm.. if this was the case, wouldnt the car stall? as the turbine will be forced to stop spinning and the exhaust will be returned back in the engine/trapped in the exhaust manifold, causing the engine to stall?

ive revved my car from the throttle body, looking at my bov as it releases air, and when it flutteres, i noticed the spring on my bov bouncing open/shut..

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/129271-bov/#findComment-2392800
Share on other sites

The flutter is caused by the air thats in the inlet tract coming back out the airfilter when the throttle body is closed (when you jump off the throttle). Its called thrust reversion and another commonly associated word is thrust reversion damage (a turbo spinning at 100,000+rpm and suddenly has air forcing its way back through it the wrong way).

Its easy as pie to make your car flutter... remove your stock BOV and make sure you have a pod filter. With aftermarket bovs they reason they flutter is the bov is either not venting at all or only partially venting and the rest of the air is going back out the intake.

On a stock ECU it can cause all kinds of problems as the air thats expected to go into the engine doesnt make it in but the fuel does causing it to partially flood itself etc.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/129271-bov/#findComment-2394232
Share on other sites

Simplest way to get some flutterin'

1) Put on a pod filter (if you haven't already got one)

2) Remove your standard BOV and make a plate up to block it off

3) Crank up the boost to say 10PSI

4) With a bit of practice, you should be able to hold flutters for up to 5seconds!!!

Happy flutterin'

DISCLAIMER:

1) Your car may/will stall as the air will be forced back through the turbo and back where it came from; your AFM will go insane hence causing a sudden "drop" in RPM and stalling. Even does it on an auto!

2) Your turbo may/will die - If I spun you 10,000rpm one direction, then hit you in the opposite direction with a baseball bat, you'd die too :D

Stan

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/129271-bov/#findComment-2394274
Share on other sites

my does it non stop, for those of you that have been in my car (polishstorm, Nick, andrew anyone else) i have the apexi duel chamber and a pod. Mind you the turbo is being replaced as we speak (by me lol) anyone want to buy a gcg highflow for 1700 so i can buy a gt30 or gt35.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/129271-bov/#findComment-2406223
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Harness is for a s1 Rb25det, and it is engine and lower harness.  the old harness had broken off plugs and was in very rough condition/exposed wires and splices etc. it is not able to be put back on the car, I could visually inspect to see if they had rewired any pins on the ecu plug. The fuel pump definitly isn’t turning off it’s an external pump and very loud you can hear it. Will look at the other harness tonight, am also going to pull the fuel rail and watch the injectors spray, will update here with what I find. Pretty sure at this point it has to be something to do with injectors because car will fire up on starting fluid and cas is clicking the Injectors. Fuel pressure is steady 43psi 
    • Check the injectors flow evenly, and are actually flowing what you and the ECU think they should be flowing. If it's starting up on starter fluid, you have a fuel issue. Is it possible under cranking your fuel pump is turning off?   The harness you replaced, is that the whole engine harness? Do yourself a test, and drop the old harness on and plug it into the Z32 ECU. It's possible they've wired things different. From memory S1 to S2 is different in RB25 and you may have a wrong loom
    • I haven’t pulled the injectors to watch them spray yet but they are clicking from the cas and all of the spark plugs are wet with fuel. I’ve thought the cylinders were being flooded from the beginning and was hoping fuel pressure would fix it. Tonight I am going to pull the rail and watch the injectors spray. Don’t know how to test/diagnose if the plugs are firing in correct sequence but that should be a timing thing and as far as timing goes my car still has the half moon for the cas can only install it 1 way. And my mechanical timing is 100% correct I posted photos above. Confirmed with the balancer on and off. 
    • I checked spark on all cylinders and they all visually have spark with the plug pulled and grounded, but plug 1 is the only one that fouled. This was a running swap that blew up and was rebuilt by a machine shop, put a new wiring specialties harness and did all gaskets, studs, and bolts while it was out.  compression is 135-150 across all cylinders. Aside from that from my understanding with the z32 ecu and maf the car should start regardless. The wiring for TPS and the dual 02 sensor/ dual knock sensor stuff shouldn’t actually stop the car from starting or even running well, (just slightly rich)  they just give fault codes. Car supposedly is supposed to start as long as you have z32 afm and ecu with the nistune base map and that’s info coming from a well known and trusted tuner who does a lot with SR/RB (Rsenthalpy). After more trouble shooting today where I’m at right now is that the cas is sending signal to the injectors they click while spinning the rotor, Fuel pressure is now set at 43psi, all cylinders have good compression and all of the plugs looked great (just wet with fuel) except for cylinder 1 which was very black (cylinder 1 has 150psi compression). all of the coils generate spark if pulled out and grounded out on the head. On the fuel pump car just pops into the exhaust. On starting fluid car will fire off. Hard to tell if all cylinders are firing off but definitley a couple. sounds like all of them but it’s only for 3-5 seconds hard to tell. 
×
×
  • Create New...