Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I know this topic has been heavily discussed before, but I couldnt help noticing that a great number of you have sydney kid suspension on your wish list of future mods....can someone please tell me what make/brand these are? adjustables or lowered springs on aftermarket shocks?

I dont know what suspension components are installed on my rs4, came lowered from japan...but currently it rides like a brick....not really ideal if you're crusing on a full stomach.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/129328-suspension-upgrade/
Share on other sites

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...showtopic=53079

simple, Sydneykids specs involving Bilstein shocks and Whiteline components (springs, bushes, swaybars etc). I went without the springs (using standard) and find it a most suitable ride.

edit: to lower it or raise the suspension, SK had "notches" scrapped into the shocks, and you can adjust the height simply using circlips. pretty much they are lowered springs on aftermarket shocks

Edited by Tangles
http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...showtopic=53079

simple, Sydneykids specs involving Bilstein shocks and Whiteline components (springs, bushes, swaybars etc). I went without the springs (using standard) and find it a most suitable ride.

edit: to lower it or raise the suspension, SK had "notches" scrapped into the shocks, and you can adjust the height simply using circlips. pretty much they are lowered springs on aftermarket shocks

Sorry to steal the thread but it seemed like a logical place to ask...

What colour should the bilstein rear shocks be?

The ones in pictures I've seen are yellow whereas I've had mine replaced under dealer warranty some time ago and was told they were bilsteins, yet they are black. They are definitely new though and provide a very comfortable ride.

Sorry to steal the thread but it seemed like a logical place to ask...

What colour should the bilstein rear shocks be?

The ones in pictures I've seen are yellow whereas I've had mine replaced under dealer warranty some time ago and was told they were bilsteins, yet they are black. They are definitely new though and provide a very comfortable ride.

Genuine Bilstein shocks have "BILSTEIN" machine into the shock body along with the part numbers. Thye are usually down near the lower shock mount.

:devil: cheers :down:

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...showtopic=53079

simple, Sydneykids specs involving Bilstein shocks and Whiteline components (springs, bushes, swaybars etc). I went without the springs (using standard) and find it a most suitable ride.

edit: to lower it or raise the suspension, SK had "notches" scrapped into the shocks, and you can adjust the height simply using circlips. pretty much they are lowered springs on aftermarket shocks

wouldn't cutting threads into the shock body compromise the strenght of the overall assembly?

wouldn't cutting threads into the shock body compromise the strenght of the overall assembly?

Nope, Bilstein Skyline shocks come with circlip grooves standard, the Group Buy simply adds a few more. The shock body is designed for that purpose.

:wave: cheers :D

Edited by Sydneykid

Well seeing as though we are asking questions in here, and I dont want to muddy up the ongoing thread....

Can someone explain to me this approx 10mm rake effect... From what I can deduce if you wanted a 10mm rake effect for the nose down... wouldnt you then want the distance from the centre of the wheels to the wheel arch on the front to be 10mm less then the distance on the back wheels? I find it confusing because everywhere I am reading of this nose down rake effect and the measurement are always higher on the front and not the back...

Please help a poor confused man :wave:

Well seeing as though we are asking questions in here, and I dont want to muddy up the ongoing thread....

Can someone explain to me this approx 10mm rake effect... From what I can deduce if you wanted a 10mm rake effect for the nose down... wouldnt you then want the distance from the centre of the wheels to the wheel arch on the front to be 10mm less then the distance on the back wheels? I find it confusing because everywhere I am reading of this nose down rake effect and the measurement are always higher on the front and not the bad...

Please help a poor confused man :wave:

The front and rear guards openings are not "cut" to the same height. The rear guard opening is in fact ~15 mm lower than the front guard opening.

Hence, rake is best measured at the sill (just behind the front wheels and just in front of the rear wheels), that's where the 10 mm nose down comes from.

:D cheers :(

Thanks sydneykid. I'll email you when its time to change the shockies on my car. right now i'm saving up for a FMIC and SAFC (will have to do this on the sly coz my wife has a tight grip on finances at the moment)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi...so a "development" here aswell The swap is "done" and car went "test drive" BUT it seems the clutch(maybe gearbox?) is a little bit sad? I bought this clutch kit https://justjap.com/products/xtreme-heavy-duty-organic-clutch-flywheel-kit-nissan-skyline-r31-r32-r33-push-type "Problem" is that the first gear is hard to put into and it seems that the clutch is not disengaged. It was not the problem with the old clutch...(or like sometime the first gear would not get as easy specialy when the fluid was cold) So? Can it be like...bad "install" or is the clutch wrong ((it should not have been) i done research to get the right one) Or is this "normal" with new clutch and needs to be break in? 
    • @Duncan I can try  and thanks i did not thought about VIN and part numbers for 33/34. @GTSBoy yeah it looks like iam gonna do that  
    • Forgot to include this but this is the mid section of my steering rack that looks like it has a thread/can be turned with that notch mentioned in the post:
    • Hey everyone, Wanted to pick some brains about this issue I'm having with rebuilding my 33 rack (PN is 49001-19U05). All of the tutorials/videos I've seen online are either R34 or S Chassis racks which seem to be pretty straightforward to disassemble but this process doesnt carry over to my rack. Few of the key differences that I've noted The pinion shaft on the other racks bolt on with 3 torx bolts: Whereas my rack bolts on with 2 allen head bolts: These changes are pretty inconsequential but the main difference is how you pull the actual rack out of the housing. The other skyline/s chassis racks can be taken out by tapping the rack out of the body with a socket and it just slides right out. I'm unable to do that with my rack because there's a hard stop at the end that doesn't let the seal/shaft be tapped out. Can also see a difference in the other end of the rack where mine has a notch that looks like you're able to use a big wrench to unthread 2 halves of the rack whereas the other racks are just kinda set in with a punch. My rack: Other racks: TLDR; Wanted to know if anyone has rebuilt this specific model of steering rack for the R33 and if there were any steps to getting it done easier or if I should just give this to a professional to get done. Sorry if this post is a bit messy, first one I've done.
    • I would just put EBC back on the "I would not use their stuff" pile and move on.
×
×
  • Create New...