Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I know this topic has been heavily discussed before, but I couldnt help noticing that a great number of you have sydney kid suspension on your wish list of future mods....can someone please tell me what make/brand these are? adjustables or lowered springs on aftermarket shocks?

I dont know what suspension components are installed on my rs4, came lowered from japan...but currently it rides like a brick....not really ideal if you're crusing on a full stomach.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/129328-suspension-upgrade/
Share on other sites

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...showtopic=53079

simple, Sydneykids specs involving Bilstein shocks and Whiteline components (springs, bushes, swaybars etc). I went without the springs (using standard) and find it a most suitable ride.

edit: to lower it or raise the suspension, SK had "notches" scrapped into the shocks, and you can adjust the height simply using circlips. pretty much they are lowered springs on aftermarket shocks

Edited by Tangles
http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...showtopic=53079

simple, Sydneykids specs involving Bilstein shocks and Whiteline components (springs, bushes, swaybars etc). I went without the springs (using standard) and find it a most suitable ride.

edit: to lower it or raise the suspension, SK had "notches" scrapped into the shocks, and you can adjust the height simply using circlips. pretty much they are lowered springs on aftermarket shocks

Sorry to steal the thread but it seemed like a logical place to ask...

What colour should the bilstein rear shocks be?

The ones in pictures I've seen are yellow whereas I've had mine replaced under dealer warranty some time ago and was told they were bilsteins, yet they are black. They are definitely new though and provide a very comfortable ride.

Sorry to steal the thread but it seemed like a logical place to ask...

What colour should the bilstein rear shocks be?

The ones in pictures I've seen are yellow whereas I've had mine replaced under dealer warranty some time ago and was told they were bilsteins, yet they are black. They are definitely new though and provide a very comfortable ride.

Genuine Bilstein shocks have "BILSTEIN" machine into the shock body along with the part numbers. Thye are usually down near the lower shock mount.

:devil: cheers :down:

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...showtopic=53079

simple, Sydneykids specs involving Bilstein shocks and Whiteline components (springs, bushes, swaybars etc). I went without the springs (using standard) and find it a most suitable ride.

edit: to lower it or raise the suspension, SK had "notches" scrapped into the shocks, and you can adjust the height simply using circlips. pretty much they are lowered springs on aftermarket shocks

wouldn't cutting threads into the shock body compromise the strenght of the overall assembly?

wouldn't cutting threads into the shock body compromise the strenght of the overall assembly?

Nope, Bilstein Skyline shocks come with circlip grooves standard, the Group Buy simply adds a few more. The shock body is designed for that purpose.

:wave: cheers :D

Edited by Sydneykid

Well seeing as though we are asking questions in here, and I dont want to muddy up the ongoing thread....

Can someone explain to me this approx 10mm rake effect... From what I can deduce if you wanted a 10mm rake effect for the nose down... wouldnt you then want the distance from the centre of the wheels to the wheel arch on the front to be 10mm less then the distance on the back wheels? I find it confusing because everywhere I am reading of this nose down rake effect and the measurement are always higher on the front and not the back...

Please help a poor confused man :wave:

Well seeing as though we are asking questions in here, and I dont want to muddy up the ongoing thread....

Can someone explain to me this approx 10mm rake effect... From what I can deduce if you wanted a 10mm rake effect for the nose down... wouldnt you then want the distance from the centre of the wheels to the wheel arch on the front to be 10mm less then the distance on the back wheels? I find it confusing because everywhere I am reading of this nose down rake effect and the measurement are always higher on the front and not the bad...

Please help a poor confused man :wave:

The front and rear guards openings are not "cut" to the same height. The rear guard opening is in fact ~15 mm lower than the front guard opening.

Hence, rake is best measured at the sill (just behind the front wheels and just in front of the rear wheels), that's where the 10 mm nose down comes from.

:D cheers :(

Thanks sydneykid. I'll email you when its time to change the shockies on my car. right now i'm saving up for a FMIC and SAFC (will have to do this on the sly coz my wife has a tight grip on finances at the moment)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Ok i will get those 310mm. I found one but on a different site. This is the description on those...is it ok? Technical parameters: - Axle: front. - Disc type: ventilated. - Number of holes: 5. - Disc diameter: 310mm. - Total height with center: 54mm. - Thickness (new/min.): 30/28mm. - Designed for brake calipers manufacturer: Sumitomo.
    • You Gregged a whole racetrack!?
    • Look for broken wire or bad connector at the motor. Might not be it, but is worth starting there, as it is easy.
    • Hi everyone, I’m having an issue with my R32 GT-R. Sometimes, when the car goes over a bump or experiences some vibration, the 4WD warning light comes on the dashboard. When I check the code from the control unit in the trunk, it shows Code 19 – ETS Motor. However, everything seems to be working fine — if I turn off the engine and restart the car, the light goes away and everything functions normally. Has anyone experienced this before? Where should I start troubleshooting this issue? Thanks in advance!
    • I'm back from the dyno - again! I went looking for someone who knew LS's and had a roller dyno, to see how it shaped up compared to everything else and confirm the powerband really is peaking where Mr Mamo says it should. TLDR: The dyno result I got this time definitely had the shape of how it feels on the road and finally 'makes sense'. Also we had a bit more time to play with timing on the dyno, it turns out the common practice in LS is to lower the timing around peak torque and restore it to max after. So given a car was on the dyno and mostly dialled in already, it was time for tweaking. Luis at APS is definitely knowledgable when it came to this and had overlays ready to go and was happy to share. If you map out your cylinder airmass you start seeing graphs that look a LOT like the engine's torque curve. The good thing also is if you map out your timing curve when you're avoiding knock... this curve very much looks like the inverse of the airmass curve. The result? Well it's another 10.7kw/14hp kw from where I drove it in at. Pretty much everywhere, too. As to how much this car actually makes in Hub Dyno numbers, American Dyno numbers, or Mainline dyno numbers, I say I don't know and it's gone up ~25kw since I started tinkering lol. It IS interesting how the shorter ratio gears I have aren't scaled right on this dyno - 6840RPM is 199KMH, not 175KMH. I have also seen other printouts here with cars with less mods at much higher "kmh" for their RPM due Commodores having 3.45's or longer (!) rear diff ratios maxing out 4th gear which is the 1:1 gear on the T56. Does this matter? No, not really. The real answer is go to the strip and see what it traps, but: I guess I should have gone last Sunday...
×
×
  • Create New...