Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi Guys just a quick question, I have been screwed at work and they have reduced me to one petty 6 hour shift a week ;) , Im at uni full-time and do not have another source of income so potentialy (hopefully not )I might have to sell my pride :) and joy and get a 250cc or something duno yet.....The near future will determine this and it will be an absolute last resort I love my car too much its off the road atm due to no license.

I puchased my car last year in june for $21000

Details are as follows:

White

96 series 2 R33

A1 Inside and out

KKR 430 Turbo, KKR Dump pipe

33 GTR Fuel Pump

Blitz Cooler

X-Force full turbo back exhaust and mufler

17 inch Buddy Club Gold P1 rims

Apexi AVCR

Nismo Gear Nob

Replaced Standard springs and shock absorbers (Had dumped springs when I got it and defected for it)

Tsonics alarm and immobilisor with in-built turbo timer that was not found at regency as intended

12 '' Strike sub, Boss Amp 6 inch split pioneer front and rear speakers, Boss 4 channel Amp

Tyres- 235 front, 255 rears Fronts brand new Rear 80%

Apexi front strut brace

Dyno at tillbroks at 197 rwks without using the APEXI AVCR (too lean without power fc) at 11.5 psi (30 plus degree day), with power fc should easily pull 225 rwkw safely all day everyday

Machined front rotors and new front pads, rear are fine

I have just replaced the drivers seat, and the side holder in the drivers side under the handle so there is absolutelynothing wrong with interior in fact it looks brand new.

RAA Insepction would be welcomed but I do still have my RAA report from last year

Once again this is only a query at this stage If I do sell I am thinking of putting in trader for $21500-22000 ONO but how much would a fellow skyline enthusiast expect to pay????

I also may as well mention that I am the first and only Australian Owner of the car and that I have the standard exhaust, speakers, boost solenoid and everything else I will chuck in to beat the boys in blue sorry about lengthy post.... Any feedback appreciated.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/129568-what-price-should-i-ask-for/
Share on other sites

pics will help, but i think you could be struggling to get more than $20,000 these days and with fuel prices going the way they are trying to sell a turbo import is getting harder and harder by the day!

urs is pretty close 2 mine (except for pfc and fuel pump but i got some other things) n if i was selling mine id b starting at $23k and see how i go, might even take off some mods like ebc and stereo system n sell them seperatly or keep them 4 next car. was offered by car dealer $15k for a trade in so i told them 2 get stuffed lol.

post-20261-1155264484.jpg

post-20261-1155264412.jpg

post-20261-1155264285.jpg

post-20261-1155264205.jpg

post-20261-1155264120.jpg

Hi all I thought I would put up a few pics;

There are a couple small things I forgot

HKS mounted POD

82998 KMS (72600 When I got it)

MrAnderson I was getting indepedance allowance but as I was eraning too uch it has been cut off I am in the process of re-applying

i don't know! you can try selling it for over 20k to dumb people! or chuck on a gtr badge and sell it to dumb people again!

but you should just check that thing that says how much cars are worth and stuff! forgot what it was

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Bit of a pity we don't have good images of the back/front of the PCB ~ that said, I found a YT vid of a teardown to replace dicky clock switches, and got enough of a glimpse to realize this PCB is the front-end to a connected to what I'll call PCBA, and as such this is all digital on this PCB..ergo, battery voltage probably doesn't make an appearance here ; that is, I'd expect them to do something on PCBA wrt power conditioning for the adjustment/display/switch PCB.... ....given what's transpired..ie; some permutation of 12vdc on a 5vdc with or without correct polarity...would explain why the zener said "no" and exploded. The transistor Q5 (M33) is likely to be a digital switching transistor...that is, package has builtin bias resistors to ensure it saturates as soon as base threshold voltage is reached (minimal rise/fall time)....and wrt the question 'what else could've fried?' ....well, I know there's an MCU on this board (display, I/O at a guess), and you hope they isolated it from this scenario...I got my crayons out, it looks a bit like this...   ...not a lot to see, or rather, everything you'd like to see disappears down a via to the other side...base drive for the transistor comes from somewhere else, what this transistor is switching is somewhere else...but the zener circuit is exclusive to all this ~ it's providing a set voltage (current limited by the 1K3 resistor R19)...and disappears somewhere else down the via I marked V out ; if the errant voltage 'jumped' the diode in the millisecond before it exploded, whatever that V out via feeds may have seen a spike... ....I'll just imagine that Q5 was switched off at the time, thus no damage should've been done....but whatever that zener feeds has to be checked... HTH
    • I think Fitmit had some, have a look on there (theyre Australian as well)
    • Hah, fair enough! But if you learn with this one you can drive any other OEM manual. No modern luxury features like auto rev-matching or hillstart assist to give you a false sense of confidence. And a heavy car with not that much torque so it stalls easily. 
    • Actually, I'd say all three are the automatic option. Just the different trim levels. The manual would be RSFS, no? 
×
×
  • Create New...