Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

A number of people have asked "What is a LEAK DOWN test?" and "Can I do it myself?". First, let me explain the concept. We already use a compression test to determine an engines condiditon. the problem with this test is that there are too many variables. It can only be used to check engine condition by comparing cylinders to each other or a past norm. Variables such as cam profile, engine cranking speed etc, will affect the readings.

A leak down tester uses air from a compressor and measures the rate at which it leaks through the engine. This is done with the engine not running and the beauty of this is that toy can find the source of the leakage by listening for the escaped air. Internal leakge is found by air bubbles in the cooling system. Tools needed are a leakdown tester, and an air compressor. The tester is available from any auto parts shop at about $60.00. Compressor should be at least 2hp and deliver 90psi.

Procedure: Remove spark plugs. Set engine to TDC #1. Calibrate test gauge per the instructions. Lock engine so it can not turn. Connect hose to spark plug hole, Conect pressurized gauge to hose connection. Read leakage. If looking for coolant leaks and nothing obvious shows up, bypass gauge and connect shop air direct to cylinder. Open radiator cap before this. If coolant sprays out, you have a head problem. Do same test on rest of cylinders. Remember to set TDC of each piston for compression stroke. This test is also great for air cooled head leaks and valve problems. Note that all engines will have some leakge past the rings. I always do full pressure test when I suspect a problem. Make sure engine is secured with full pressure test. it will spin violently. With gauge connected, you can rock crankshaft to see if leakage changes. If so, this is a sign that the ring lands are wearing, new engines will also do this until the rings are seated.

I know these instructions are kinda flaky, but I hope this gives some insight as to this type of test. If having a mechanic work on your vehicle, he should be familiar with the leakdown test. I would be concerned if he isn't.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/129666-what-is-this/#findComment-2398407
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah, it's getting like that, my daughter is coming over on Thursday to help me remove the bonnet so I can install the Carbuilders underbonnet stuff,  I might get her to give me a hand and remove the hardtop, maybe, because on really hot days the detachable hardtop helps the aircon keep the interior cool, the heat just punches straight through to rag top I also don't have enough hair for the "wind in the hair" experience, so there is that....LOL
    • Could be falling edge/rising edge is set wrong. Are you getting sync errors?
    • On BMWs what I do because I'm more confident that I can't instantly crush the pinch welds and do thousands of USD in chassis damage is use a set of rubber jacking pads designed to protect the chassis/plastic adapter and raise a corner of the car, place the aforementioned 2x12 inch wooden planks under a tire, drop the car, then this normally gives me enough clearance to get to the front central jack point. If you don't need it to be a ramp it only needs to be 1-1.5 feet long. On my R33 I do not trust the pinch welds to tolerate any of this so I drive up on the ramps. Before then when I had to get a new floor jack that no longer cleared the front lip I removed it to get enough clearance to put the jack under it. Once you're on the ramps once you simply never let the car down to the ground. It lives on the ramps or on jack stands.
    • Nah. You need 2x taps for anything that you cannot pass the tap all the way through. And even then, there's a point in response to the above which I will come back to. The 2x taps are 1x tapered for starting, and 1x plug tap for working to the bottom of blind holes. That block's port is effectively a blind hole from the perspective of the tap. The tapered tap/tapered thread response. You don't ever leave a female hole tapered. They are supposed to be parallel, hence the wide section of a tapered tap being parallel, the existince of plug taps, etc. The male is tapered so that it will eventually get too fat for the female thread, and yes, there is some risk if the tapped length of the female hole doesn't offer enough threads, that it will not lock up very nicely. But you can always buzz off the extra length on the male thread, and the tape is very good at adding bulk to the joint.
    • Nice....looking forward to that update
×
×
  • Create New...