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Good work Madaz, should make you the resident video editor :)

Cubes - if I recall JazzaR33 had AT of 24 & IT scrapped in at 40.

Well afraid to say your recollections aren't quite that good, you plan on going into politics? :P

Sure the AT was only 25, but the IT was 49, so not extra cool even when I went on. And I was probably only about the 5th 1 on, with my engine still nice & hot, having gotten there only about 15 minutes earlier. Either way very pleased with 177.2kW considering I have no fmic yet.

Oh & it was me you were talking to when Chops Calais hit the dyno, not Nozila :O I missed out too, was spewin'

Edited by JazzaR33
Well afraid to say your recollections aren't quite that good, you plan on going into politics? :P

Sure the AT was only 25, but the IT was 49, so not extra cool even when I went on. And I was probably only about the 5th 1 on, with my engine still nice & hot, having gotten there only about 15 minutes earlier. Either way very pleased with 177.2kW considering I have no fmic yet.

Oh & it was me you were talking to when Chops Calais hit the dyno, not Nozila :O I missed out too, was spewin'

Are you running a Pod Jazza? Would most likely explain the temps, used air from the radiator was probably being passing over; either that or the temp sensor was slightly placed incorrect.

With my CAI I see temps pretty much spot on the AT temp. Within a degree or two.

Its definitely worth it. Both for economy and power.

In shootout mode the higher the IT sensor reading the greater the correction applied to your power reading.

So grab two cars making the same power; one with a cai, one without. Hit the strip and the one with the cai will be quicker.

Which is why I'm not a believer of placing the IT sensor on the pod. It really should be placed in front of the car in the airstream leaving the fan. The results would then reflect real world results more accurately.

Due to the setup of shauns dyno its not uncommon to see the IT temps reading lower than the AT temps. The fan blows air in from the front of the work shop where as the AT sensor is located up near the PC. I believe we saw this occur last year.

Yeah man hurry up and mod the hell out of that S15!!

or you could buy my S15 for $29k Dean and sell your stocker www.andrewn.da.ru :P .... 203rwkw and ready for a bigger turbo to make 250rwkw+ easily - all the supporting mods are already done! /free plug :woot:

Its definitely worth it. Both for economy and power.

In shootout mode the higher the IT sensor reading the greater the correction applied to your power reading.

So grab two cars making the same power; one with a cai, one without. Hit the strip and the one with the cai will be quicker.

Which is why I'm not a believer of placing the IT sensor on the pod. It really should be placed in front of the car in the airstream leaving the fan. The results would then reflect real world results more accurately.

Due to the setup of shauns dyno its not uncommon to see the IT temps reading lower than the AT temps. The fan blows air in from the front of the work shop where as the AT sensor is located up near the PC. I believe we saw this occur last year.

the placement of this sensor could this be why i saw 20kw less than my last run :woot::P

Edited by Madaz

Andrew :Gotta say awesome car there! and i know its fast aswell :laugh: Is it advertised on Ns.com?

Leo: When i can be stuffed, i will put on all my mods. Im concerned about the manifold thou. Dont know what to do. Infact I was thinkin about putting the exhaust and fuel pump on, crankin up boost, and doing a dyno run. Then put on the manifold, and do another dyno run. Then comes the powerfc, gt2871r, and supporting mods. Hope for 250kw

Also how loud is the 040 Pump? I think ill still get one.

Bends and welds are kept to a minimum to improve exhaust velocity and pipe length is made as even as possible (equal length). With these fitted you will see a power increase from around 2200 RPM all the way to 7500 RPM providing a broad power range. With a stock turbo the power/torque drop off above 6500 isn't as bad and boost comes on a little earlier providing stronger mid range torque that hits like a bomb. The top end power increase is due to 2 reasons. Firstly; boost doesn't drop off like the factory manifold does. Secondly; the efficiency is improved at high rpm driving- this was optimized for people using turbo upgrades such as garrett and HKS turbo's. Perfect for street/track cars.

In addition to this they also have a sound change which is inevitable with the velocity increase in the exhaust. The exhaust does sound tougher with these fitted. Expect around 20 rw hp on a mildly tuned SR with exhaust and air filter. Bigger gains have been seen with more modifications/better quality parts fitted but due to so many variables, the gains have been from 27 rwhp to a whopping 39 rw hp on a severely restricted car (This car had all the bolt on goodies).

This doesn't just add top end power but increases overall power and power under the graph making your car overall quicker in a variety of situations. Its easy to make something that improves power, but improving power over the entire RPM range and partial throttle is not so easy. This will fit your stock turbo or another bolt on.

IMG_5713_.jpg

However there are some people that have had good results with them, hence why i was goin to dyno it then make a decision. I mean ive already spent 200, might aswell spend another 50 and find out.

I bought a manifold like this for my S15 and it split within 3 months :laugh: I noticed no additional power, but the car sounded cooler. Expect around $400 to have a workshop refit the old manifold when it cracks.

nah Duc - I had mine HPC coated - didn't help one bit.

So I was out of pocket $350 to buy, $220 to HPC, around $400 to fit, then around $400 to refit the old manifold. Needless to say I am EXTREMELY unhappy about it!

My tip is get a larger/baffled sump Dean - I picked up a Chinese Trust copy for around $250 from memory, and it dropped my oil temps by 10-15 degrees (with no oil cooler)!

Dean man. Don't waste your time with the manifold. As you can see Nightcrawer and I thought it wasn't worth it. The only good thing was that they made the engine note sound nicer. The power quotes are bullshit by GKTech. He has no proof to back his claims. You might gain maybe 5rwkw, at the expensive of turbo response which was my experience. Not worth it man! As you can see the stock manifold isn't a restriction yet!

If you want to get a manifold, the Tomei Expreme one is a good one. But even then with their own dyno graphs it looks like you only gain like 10hp on a worked motor!

http://www.tomei-p.co.jp/_2003web-catalogu...anifold_en.html

Oh yeah the 044 is a quieter pump. Funny on the Dyno Day it was whinning to all hell but usually its silent. Depends on how hot the day is. But my old 040 was still louder.

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