Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi All.

It's a bit urgent. I once stumbled upon a generic intercooler install on the site somewhere; I think it was in PDF format, showing how to install an intercooler on an R33. AND now I can't find it.

Can someone please help, if they have one post it up or PM me? PLEASE.

Hi guys, has anyone got a version of the instalation manual scanned or a coppy they can send me through, i recived my kit form CRD wich is absolutly fantastic, i will post pics.

Only thing, no instructions, i know it's a generic type but i need to see where to cut the hole.

Can somone give me some hints as to where the whole needs to go for the piping and cooler.

URGENT.

Here you go.

Got it off the Hybrid site but can't find it now.

Can't remember is it was hybrid of HDI or some other name they go under.

Good luck.

I've posted some pics up somewhere to if you wanna check em out.

In the Forced Induction i think

Intercooler_Installation_GTSt.pdf

thanks mate, found them LATE last night, exactly what i was after.

Quick question, the piping has no nipple for the wastgate actuator,did you guys make one up. Also i think the bracket for the main top pipe is out on mine, can somone post a pic of their engine bay for me. Ta

thanks mate, found them LATE last night, exactly what i was after.

Quick question, the piping has no nipple for the wastgate actuator,did you guys make one up. Also i think the bracket for the main top pipe is out on mine, can somone post a pic of their engine bay for me. Ta

No nipple on mine either. Just extend the hose and T-Piece it into your vacuum hose off your blow off valve. What kit have you got?

yeah i have the CRD kit which is same as HYBRID. The thing is it is not good to have the wastgat see vacume, hence why the bleed is usually taken before the butterfly, i would fix it, as sooner or later it will stuff up.

I simply drilled and tapped my main cast pipe and scrwed in a nipple connection for the hose, no probs so far.

The thing is it is not good to have the wastgat see vacume, hence why the bleed is usually taken before the butterfly, i would fix it, as sooner or later it will stuff up.

Can you elaborate on this a bit for me? Reasons why?

The wastegate is sprung to hold the gate shut until it sees a pressure form the boost controller, or thereabouts, and putting the gate under vacuum can damage the membrane inside as it was not designed to see vacuum.

Also the gate will open slower if plumed off after the throttle, this is because the controller never sees full boost as quick and allow for the gate to work.

Basically it, it is easy to do, go to a auto shop ask for a 5mm vacuum nipple with a treaded end, mine was 8mm thread hole, and drill and tap, use some silicon tape and hay presto.

PM me if you need some help

man the hydrid kit look like a bit of stuffing around..

is there a kit that doesn't require cutting holes because i think it is now illegal to cut any part of the frame.

isn't there a kit that connect up to the two stock holes?

yess there is an ARC side mounted one, that replaces the stock unit, or you can get a R34 GTT side one if you are only going to have 200kW or so. But ARC also do a front mount that uses stock piping, do a search and something should come up.

VERY pricy though, R44 GTT much cheaper.

man the hydrid kit look like a bit of stuffing around..

is there a kit that doesn't require cutting holes because i think it is now illegal to cut any part of the frame.

isn't there a kit that connect up to the two stock holes?

Pretty sure any FMIC install will have to take a bit out of the reinforcement bar. Give it a shot. I did mine and I had never used an angle grinder before.

  • 2 weeks later...
The wastegate is sprung to hold the gate shut until it sees a pressure form the boost controller, or thereabouts, and putting the gate under vacuum can damage the membrane inside as it was not designed to see vacuum.

Also the gate will open slower if plumed off after the throttle, this is because the controller never sees full boost as quick and allow for the gate to work.

Basically it, it is easy to do, go to a auto shop ask for a 5mm vacuum nipple with a treaded end, mine was 8mm thread hole, and drill and tap, use some silicon tape and hay presto.

PM me if you need some help

I did this over the weekend and boost is coming on a bit quicker now. I just thought i weas experiencing extra turbo lag when I intsalled the FMIC but it looks like the turbo takes a bit longer to boost up when the connection is made after (?) the throttle

Cheers Wog.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Check the injectors flow evenly, and are actually flowing what you and the ECU think they should be flowing. If it's starting up on starter fluid, you have a fuel issue. Is it possible under cranking your fuel pump is turning off?   The harness you replaced, is that the whole engine harness? Do yourself a test, and drop the old harness on and plug it into the Z32 ECU. It's possible they've wired things different. From memory S1 to S2 is different in RB25 and you may have a wrong loom
    • I haven’t pulled the injectors to watch them spray yet but they are clicking from the cas and all of the spark plugs are wet with fuel. I’ve thought the cylinders were being flooded from the beginning and was hoping fuel pressure would fix it. Tonight I am going to pull the rail and watch the injectors spray. Don’t know how to test/diagnose if the plugs are firing in correct sequence but that should be a timing thing and as far as timing goes my car still has the half moon for the cas can only install it 1 way. And my mechanical timing is 100% correct I posted photos above. Confirmed with the balancer on and off. 
    • I checked spark on all cylinders and they all visually have spark with the plug pulled and grounded, but plug 1 is the only one that fouled. This was a running swap that blew up and was rebuilt by a machine shop, put a new wiring specialties harness and did all gaskets, studs, and bolts while it was out.  compression is 135-150 across all cylinders. Aside from that from my understanding with the z32 ecu and maf the car should start regardless. The wiring for TPS and the dual 02 sensor/ dual knock sensor stuff shouldn’t actually stop the car from starting or even running well, (just slightly rich)  they just give fault codes. Car supposedly is supposed to start as long as you have z32 afm and ecu with the nistune base map and that’s info coming from a well known and trusted tuner who does a lot with SR/RB (Rsenthalpy). After more trouble shooting today where I’m at right now is that the cas is sending signal to the injectors they click while spinning the rotor, Fuel pressure is now set at 43psi, all cylinders have good compression and all of the plugs looked great (just wet with fuel) except for cylinder 1 which was very black (cylinder 1 has 150psi compression). all of the coils generate spark if pulled out and grounded out on the head. On the fuel pump car just pops into the exhaust. On starting fluid car will fire off. Hard to tell if all cylinders are firing off but definitley a couple. sounds like all of them but it’s only for 3-5 seconds hard to tell. 
    • Final update!!! Got the front bar fitted and sprayed and all sorted now. My cutouts worked great and the indicators aren’t just falling off. 😂  
×
×
  • Create New...