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R33 Intercooler Install Instructions Pdf

WogsRus

By WogsRus,
in Forced Induction Performance

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WogsRus Veteran

WogsRus

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Hi All.

It's a bit urgent. I once stumbled upon a generic intercooler install on the site somewhere; I think it was in PDF format, showing how to install an intercooler on an R33. AND now I can't find it.

Can someone please help, if they have one post it up or PM me? PLEASE.

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WogsRus Veteran

WogsRus

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Hi guys, has anyone got a version of the instalation manual scanned or a coppy they can send me through, i recived my kit form CRD wich is absolutly fantastic, i will post pics.

Only thing, no instructions, i know it's a generic type but i need to see where to cut the hole.

Can somone give me some hints as to where the whole needs to go for the piping and cooler.

URGENT.

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WogsRus Veteran

WogsRus

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thanks mate, found them LATE last night, exactly what i was after.

Quick question, the piping has no nipple for the wastgate actuator,did you guys make one up. Also i think the bracket for the main top pipe is out on mine, can somone post a pic of their engine bay for me. Ta

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Kennedy Mentor

Kennedy

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thanks mate, found them LATE last night, exactly what i was after.

Quick question, the piping has no nipple for the wastgate actuator,did you guys make one up. Also i think the bracket for the main top pipe is out on mine, can somone post a pic of their engine bay for me. Ta

No nipple on mine either. Just extend the hose and T-Piece it into your vacuum hose off your blow off valve. What kit have you got?

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WogsRus Veteran

WogsRus

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yeah i have the CRD kit which is same as HYBRID. The thing is it is not good to have the wastgat see vacume, hence why the bleed is usually taken before the butterfly, i would fix it, as sooner or later it will stuff up.

I simply drilled and tapped my main cast pipe and scrwed in a nipple connection for the hose, no probs so far.

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Kennedy Mentor

Kennedy

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The thing is it is not good to have the wastgat see vacume, hence why the bleed is usually taken before the butterfly, i would fix it, as sooner or later it will stuff up.

Can you elaborate on this a bit for me? Reasons why?

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WogsRus Veteran

WogsRus

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The wastegate is sprung to hold the gate shut until it sees a pressure form the boost controller, or thereabouts, and putting the gate under vacuum can damage the membrane inside as it was not designed to see vacuum.

Also the gate will open slower if plumed off after the throttle, this is because the controller never sees full boost as quick and allow for the gate to work.

Basically it, it is easy to do, go to a auto shop ask for a 5mm vacuum nipple with a treaded end, mine was 8mm thread hole, and drill and tap, use some silicon tape and hay presto.

PM me if you need some help

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taiphan Enthusiast

taiphan

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man the hydrid kit look like a bit of stuffing around..

is there a kit that doesn't require cutting holes because i think it is now illegal to cut any part of the frame.

isn't there a kit that connect up to the two stock holes?

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WogsRus Veteran

WogsRus

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yess there is an ARC side mounted one, that replaces the stock unit, or you can get a R34 GTT side one if you are only going to have 200kW or so. But ARC also do a front mount that uses stock piping, do a search and something should come up.

VERY pricy though, R44 GTT much cheaper.

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Kennedy Mentor

Kennedy

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man the hydrid kit look like a bit of stuffing around..

is there a kit that doesn't require cutting holes because i think it is now illegal to cut any part of the frame.

isn't there a kit that connect up to the two stock holes?

Pretty sure any FMIC install will have to take a bit out of the reinforcement bar. Give it a shot. I did mine and I had never used an angle grinder before.

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  • 2 weeks later...
Kennedy Mentor

Kennedy

Posted
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The wastegate is sprung to hold the gate shut until it sees a pressure form the boost controller, or thereabouts, and putting the gate under vacuum can damage the membrane inside as it was not designed to see vacuum.

Also the gate will open slower if plumed off after the throttle, this is because the controller never sees full boost as quick and allow for the gate to work.

Basically it, it is easy to do, go to a auto shop ask for a 5mm vacuum nipple with a treaded end, mine was 8mm thread hole, and drill and tap, use some silicon tape and hay presto.

PM me if you need some help

I did this over the weekend and boost is coming on a bit quicker now. I just thought i weas experiencing extra turbo lag when I intsalled the FMIC but it looks like the turbo takes a bit longer to boost up when the connection is made after (?) the throttle

Cheers Wog.

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