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Cubes has it right !!

Here are some Nissan RB cam specs to look at:

http://www.tomei-p.co.jp/_2003web-catalogu...haft-specs.html

Now look at the R33 RB25DE and RB25DET they use absolutely IDENTICAL cams.

There is no difference between a 262 cam for a turbo engine and a 262 cam for an n/a engine. Just buy the cams you want and set them up with a variable cam pulley to get whatever valve timing you want.

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My recommendation;

Tomei Poncams 256 degrees inlet and exhaust for RB25DE (non neo)

Tomei Poncams 260 degrees inlet and exhaust for RB25DE (neo)

Any brand adjustable exhaust camshaft pulley at ~5 degrees retarded

Bass Junky inlet cam adjusters at ~ 3 degrees advanced.

Set the camshaft timing on the dyno.

:D cheers :D

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Sweet thanks Heaps everyone

just one more thing

Tomei Poncams 256 degrees inlet and exhaust for RB25DE (non neo)

Tomei Poncams 260 degrees inlet and exhaust for RB25DE (neo)

Any brand adjustable exhaust camshaft pulley at ~5 degrees retarded

Bass Junky inlet cam adjusters at ~ 3 degrees advanced.

Will i still get my vvt with this setup^^^^^^^^^^???

also i will post pics of the build and the dyno results when finshed in here so look out for it

cheers

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  • 2 weeks later...

is there a limit to how much lift the cam can have before needing stronger valve springs or better lifters?

i think i recall 9.0mm being the limit of stock lifter and springs?

good thread ..thanks for the info

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  • 1 month later...
  • 2 weeks later...

Hi guys, I've just fitted a set of SURECAM regrinds to my RB30DE which cost me around $400 incl. freight.

At this stage i havent been on the dyno for the purpose of setting the vernier cam gears for maximum power but i can tell you that even though it makes good power, it only makes power till just over 6000 & then its all over by 6500. As a result, i'm thinking of going a bigger set of billet cams to get the thing really revving!!!

My engine combo is: R33 head, RB30E block, Link ECU, full 3 inch exhaust, RB25DET injectors & oil pump, lightened crank & flywheel, balanced, cryogenically frozen rods & flywheel, hi octane clutch, extractors are bigger than the biggest you can buy off the shelf, twin XF throttles, 256 cams......... & the punchline: 12:1 compression.

This setup pulled 199.7rwhp @ 6100rpm the other day at a dyno comp, taking the trophy for best atmo 6 cyl.

I think it should be revving MUCH harder & cams are the only variable left at this stage so i guess i'll be ringing surecam again but for billets this time. :(

post-25288-1161615584.jpg

post-25288-1161699607.jpg

Edited by gts_143
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nice work gts_143, more info please!!! any 1/4 mile times? what is it like to drive?

judging by other rb30de motors, i'm hazzarding a guess from high 13s to low 14s????

do you think the 3" exhaust is too big? too restrictive?

nengun have a cheapish set of tomei pon cams 256º and 8.5mm for sale approximately $780 delivered. just a heads up

please keep us updated!

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another thing stopping you revving high is the harmonic balancer

the rb30's are notorious for blowing bits apart (ie belts) at high revs due to harmonic issues

a decent harmonic balancer would be the go if u want to get higher revs otherwise u could be running the risk of damaging ur engine

contact sydneykid for details - i think he does harmonic balancers for the rb30, or he can get them for u

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I havent had it down the strip since the old motor which had a few bolt-ons to get it to 164rwhp & propelled it down the strip in 15.26 @ 91m/h. With the new donk at around 200rwhp i think it would pull close to a flat 14.00. My goal is to beat my friend Dean on the gold coast who has a 200rwhp RB30E powered R31 who has run a 13.89 AND also i want to beat Zoom magazines atmo V6 commy which pulled a 13.83!

Deans skyline is the quickest atmo skyline in ausralia that i know of & zoom claims its V6 was the quickest atmo V6 in australia before they turboed it. (not counting a non-standard capacity V6 which had a 4.3L stroker kit).

The new RB30DE is only just run in. It went in a local dyno comp straight after, & has done stuff all k's since then cos its my weekend car.

The regrind cams that are in it are already 250-something degree items with 8.5mm lift so i'm looking to go to around 270 ones with 9.4mm lift & upgrade to turbo valve springs.

Are there any other atmo skylines or VL's from this club pulling 200+rwhp or 13 second quarters? (I'm seldom on these forums as i usually visit R31skylineclub.com.)

Are there any RB25DE owners with nice power figures? If so, what power did it peak at? ( I'm guessing probly 500-1000rpm higher due to shorter stroke).

Also, is there any RB30DE owners here that have dynoed their car & found that ther power peaks higher than 6100rpm? I ask this because i think mine should be revving harder even with these mild cams. I talked to Surecam today & he thought power should peak higher than that even with stock cams but i ran these cams from the first time this donk was ever started so i dont know. Any info guys???

Heres another pic from when i was building up the twin cam setup, cheers, Shaun.

post-25288-1161698888.jpg

post-25288-1161699015.jpg

post-25288-1161699063.jpg

post-25288-1161699095.jpg

post-25288-1161699432.jpg

post-25288-1161699502.jpg

Edited by gts_143
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To be fair, i should probably point out that even though i think theres more to be had from the cam setup i'm running, you definately know you have lumpy cams cos when you hit 4000rpm the whole engine changes note as the cams come on song. The VCT is switched at 4300 & the power just keeps building strongly til 6100.

I just want it to be 7100 thats all. :)

post-25288-1161700046.jpg

post-25288-1161700074.jpg

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Why are you still running the lumps in the exh. port.

They kill flow when not running a log style manifold. The idea of them is to help direct airflow but most importantly prevent reversion.

There's no need for them on an n/a with nice extractors.

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I wasnt sure if they were there for that purpose or if they had to be there because of being close to a water jacket or something. I didnt want to die grind straight into a water jacket & have big dramas.

So has anyone here done that? (removed the lumps?)

Any power improvement?

Cheers, Shaun.

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damn i havnt been on the forums for a while. nice to see another rb30de out there. i would have expected slightly better power from what you have done to yours.

im just starting to look at doing the cams in my rb30de. yours is about where i want to get mine to with the specs.

i cant rember the kW to hp conversion. but mine has 123rwkw. i know of another one in NZ that had dynod at 138rwkw before being tuned down to 130.

mine pulls hard till about 5500-6000rpm till the power drops off a bit. but still hits stock rev limiter very quick.

has your ecu been retuned since the cams? how is the air fuel ratio?

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No. It was assembled just as the specs read, i.e the mild cams were in it when it was first started & was road tuned as best as i could with no air/fuel meter, then after it was run in i put it in the dyno day that i mentioned earlier & the guy told me that that the peak power mixtures were very close.

However the timing hasnt been really pushed to the limit & the cam timing hasnt been set up using a dyno so power is not 100% of its capability.

But, even so, its not far off & i know that it will not get much more the way it is unless i get bigger cams so i think its a waste of time dynoing it any further. i still intend on retarding the exhaust cam a tad & i'll just check the result by the seat of my pants but apart from that, i'll just keep saving money. :P

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  • 1 year later...

digging up an old thread.

going by SK's comment above:

whats the difference between bass junkys "cam gears" compared to a jap brand cam gear?

My recommendation;

Tomei Poncams 256 degrees inlet and exhaust for RB25DE (non neo)

Tomei Poncams 260 degrees inlet and exhaust for RB25DE (neo)

Any brand adjustable exhaust camshaft pulley at ~5 degrees retarded

Bass Junky inlet cam adjusters at ~ 3 degrees advanced.

Set the camshaft timing on the dyno.

can anyone help?

car is a r34 rb25 neo.

cheers

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