Jump to content
SAU Community

Gt2835/3071

handyandy

By handyandy,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

handyandy Community Regular

handyandy

Posted
Posted

Hi guys, after reading through the rb25 turbo results, i'm after stats on this turbo.

eg: when boost hits, how many rwkw can they put out, etc.

Can someone point me in the right direction or talk from experience.

i'm after a responsive turbo for my rb25det running forgies and soon cams.

For street and some track

Chaseing 280ish.rwkw

Thanks Simon

btw, was considering a gt30 but too big and laggy and want more power than a highflow.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/130404-gt28353071/
Share on other sites
discopotato03 Grand Master

discopotato03

Posted
Posted

Yes been thrashed to death this one , off the top of my head I think ~ 400 Hp was the limit of the thing (GT2835) depending on manifold/gate/tuning and 101 other things .

GT2835 expensive especially in T3 flanged integral gate form but easy to fit .

Garretts GT3071R "WG" or waste gated is a waste of space because it uses an inappropriate GT28 exhaust housing so wrong flange and Rat Sht turbine performance .

IMO the best is the "real" GT3071R (CHRA no 700177-5023) with the full sized GT30 turbine in a REAL GT30 exhaust housing . ATM the REAL exhaust housings are only available without integral (internal) wastegate , though Garrett have been promising an integral .82 housing for some time .

Cast Iron Rule - research turbos because they are expensive . Don't just believe its good because the bloke with the cash register says so . YOUR the one that has to live with it if you don't like it .

Cheers .

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/130404-gt28353071/#findComment-2416333
Share on other sites
BHDave Grand Master

BHDave

Posted
Posted

The hks 2835proS will do what you are asking fairly easily if you are going to put cams in, a bit less without. IMHO they are the best bolt on street turbo for an rb25 by far, but you are paying for it.

Considering that your HKS unit will set you back around 3500 if you can slip it into the country without duty or tax (but includes everything you need to bolt it on) you should also look at the 3071 that disco has mentioned above as it is considerably cheaper to buy but you have the added expense of the new manifold, wastegate, dump and intake piping, and oil and water lines. If you can do it for the same price as the hks unit i'd be surprised.

End of the day, both will give similar results from what i have seen.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/130404-gt28353071/#findComment-2416404
Share on other sites
Dale FZ1 Veteran

Dale FZ1

Posted
Posted
Cast Iron Rule - research turbos because they are expensive . Don't just believe its good because the bloke with the cash register says so . YOUR the one that has to live with it if you don't like it .

This is what took me the time (12 months) to know with certainty what I wanted. And it meant I had to reject the advice from ALL sellers - they wanted to push the sizing UP and didn't seem to understand my objectives and preferences. In the end it was a conversation with a Garrett engineer that confirmed my convictions.

The HKS unit will do everything you want, but the cost is savage.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/130404-gt28353071/#findComment-2423929
Share on other sites
  • 2 weeks later...
Trooper Experienced

Trooper

Posted
Posted
This is what took me the time (12 months) to know with certainty what I wanted. And it meant I had to reject the advice from ALL sellers - they wanted to push the sizing UP and didn't seem to understand my objectives and preferences. In the end it was a conversation with a Garrett engineer that confirmed my convictions.

The HKS unit will do everything you want, but the cost is savage.

Who did you speak with at garrett? was this in Sydney?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/130404-gt28353071/#findComment-2462083
Share on other sites
Color_Of_Green Enthusiast

Color_Of_Green

Posted
Posted

This is what the HKS 2835 Pro-S kit looks like. I have it installed on my R33 and make around 280rwkw.

http://www.nismo.com.au/pricelists/HKS/hks2835prokit.jpg

dyno sheet here:

http://www.nismo.com.au/Dyno/LUKE.gif

Botls right on. Note the nice dump pipe.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/130404-gt28353071/#findComment-2462115
Share on other sites
Dale FZ1 Veteran

Dale FZ1

Posted
Posted
This is what the HKS 2835 Pro-S kit looks like. I have it installed on my R33 and make around 280rwkw.

Botls right on. Note the nice dump pipe.

Very impressive, and typical of what you can expect with a Japanese-style full kit.

No argument that you get what you pay for.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/130404-gt28353071/#findComment-2462345
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Nizzy_R34
      r34's love to squeal

      By Nizzy_R34 · Posted

      just an update to this, poor man pays twice  Tried sanding down the pulleys but it didnt do the trick. Chucked another second hand alternator in the na car which I got for free off my mate and its fixed the squelling. Must have been unlucky with the bearings.    As for my turbo car, I managed to pick up a cwc rb alternator conversion bracket + LS alternator for 250 off marketplace, looked to be in really good nick. Installed it , started the car and its not charging the battery.... ( Im not good with auto elec stuff so im not sure if this was all I needed to do but I verified such by using a multimeter on the battery when the engine was running and I was only getting 12.2v )   I had to modify the earth strap for the new LS alternator , factory earth strap was a 10mm bolt which did not fit the bolt on the LS alternator which was double the size so I cut it off , went to repco bought some ring terminals that fit, crimped it onto the old earth strap and bolted it up to the alternator , started the car and same issue. Ran like shit and was reading 12.2 at the battery.  For a "plug and play" advertised kit thats not very plug and play but alas.  My question is , am I missing something ? Ive been reading that some people recommend upgrading the stock 80 amp alternator fuse to a 140 amp but I dont see how that would stop the alternator charging especially at idle not under load.  Regardless ive pulled it out and am going to get it bench tested by an auto elec tomorrow but it would be handy to know if ive missed something silly or have done something wrong.   
    • Duncan
      Engine sputter

      By Duncan · Posted

      My wild guess is that you have popped off an intake pipe....check all of the hoses between the turbo and the throttle for splits or loose clamps.
    • Duncan
      S1 Autech 260RS Wiring Diagrams

      By Duncan · Posted

      Awesome, thanks for sharing!
    • Duncan
      Nissan fuga 450gt android screen

      By Duncan · Posted

      To provide more specific help, more information is needed. What Android screen? What is its wiring diagram? Does the car's wiring have power at any required BAT and ACC wires, and is the loom's earth good?
    • GTSBoy
      Nissan fuga 450gt android screen

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      So, now all you need to do is connect the 2 or 3x 12v feeds into the unit to permanent 12v, ACC 12V and IGN 12V that you can find in the spot behind the stereo, and the earth, and then it will switch on with the car.
×
×
  • Create New...