Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi guys, after reading through the rb25 turbo results, i'm after stats on this turbo.

eg: when boost hits, how many rwkw can they put out, etc.

Can someone point me in the right direction or talk from experience.

i'm after a responsive turbo for my rb25det running forgies and soon cams.

For street and some track

Chaseing 280ish.rwkw

Thanks Simon

btw, was considering a gt30 but too big and laggy and want more power than a highflow.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/130404-gt28353071/
Share on other sites

Yes been thrashed to death this one , off the top of my head I think ~ 400 Hp was the limit of the thing (GT2835) depending on manifold/gate/tuning and 101 other things .

GT2835 expensive especially in T3 flanged integral gate form but easy to fit .

Garretts GT3071R "WG" or waste gated is a waste of space because it uses an inappropriate GT28 exhaust housing so wrong flange and Rat Sht turbine performance .

IMO the best is the "real" GT3071R (CHRA no 700177-5023) with the full sized GT30 turbine in a REAL GT30 exhaust housing . ATM the REAL exhaust housings are only available without integral (internal) wastegate , though Garrett have been promising an integral .82 housing for some time .

Cast Iron Rule - research turbos because they are expensive . Don't just believe its good because the bloke with the cash register says so . YOUR the one that has to live with it if you don't like it .

Cheers .

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/130404-gt28353071/#findComment-2416333
Share on other sites

The hks 2835proS will do what you are asking fairly easily if you are going to put cams in, a bit less without. IMHO they are the best bolt on street turbo for an rb25 by far, but you are paying for it.

Considering that your HKS unit will set you back around 3500 if you can slip it into the country without duty or tax (but includes everything you need to bolt it on) you should also look at the 3071 that disco has mentioned above as it is considerably cheaper to buy but you have the added expense of the new manifold, wastegate, dump and intake piping, and oil and water lines. If you can do it for the same price as the hks unit i'd be surprised.

End of the day, both will give similar results from what i have seen.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/130404-gt28353071/#findComment-2416404
Share on other sites

Cast Iron Rule - research turbos because they are expensive . Don't just believe its good because the bloke with the cash register says so . YOUR the one that has to live with it if you don't like it .

This is what took me the time (12 months) to know with certainty what I wanted. And it meant I had to reject the advice from ALL sellers - they wanted to push the sizing UP and didn't seem to understand my objectives and preferences. In the end it was a conversation with a Garrett engineer that confirmed my convictions.

The HKS unit will do everything you want, but the cost is savage.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/130404-gt28353071/#findComment-2423929
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...
This is what took me the time (12 months) to know with certainty what I wanted. And it meant I had to reject the advice from ALL sellers - they wanted to push the sizing UP and didn't seem to understand my objectives and preferences. In the end it was a conversation with a Garrett engineer that confirmed my convictions.

The HKS unit will do everything you want, but the cost is savage.

Who did you speak with at garrett? was this in Sydney?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/130404-gt28353071/#findComment-2462083
Share on other sites

This is what the HKS 2835 Pro-S kit looks like. I have it installed on my R33 and make around 280rwkw.

http://www.nismo.com.au/pricelists/HKS/hks2835prokit.jpg

dyno sheet here:

http://www.nismo.com.au/Dyno/LUKE.gif

Botls right on. Note the nice dump pipe.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/130404-gt28353071/#findComment-2462115
Share on other sites

This is what the HKS 2835 Pro-S kit looks like. I have it installed on my R33 and make around 280rwkw.

Botls right on. Note the nice dump pipe.

Very impressive, and typical of what you can expect with a Japanese-style full kit.

No argument that you get what you pay for.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/130404-gt28353071/#findComment-2462345
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Then, shorten them by 1cm, drop the car back down and have a visual look (or even better, use a spirit level across the wheel to see if you have less camber than before. You still want something like 1.5 for road use. Alternatively, if you have adjustable rear ride height (I assume you do if you have extreme camber wear), raise the suspension back to standard height until you can get it all aligned properly. Finally, keep in mind that wear on the inside of the tyre can be for incorrect toe, not just camber
    • I know I have to get a wheel alignment but until then I just need to bring the rear tyres in a bit they're wearing to the belt on the inside and brand new on the outside edge. I did shorten the arms a bit but got it wrong now after a few klms the Slip and VDC lights come on. I'd just like to get it to a point where I can drive for another week or two before getting an alignment. I've had to pay a lot of other stuff recently so doing it myself is my only option 
    • You just need a wheel alignment after, so just set them to the same as current and drive to the shop. As there are 2 upper links it may also be worth adding adjustable upper front links at the same time; these reduce bump steer when you move the camber (note that setting those correctly takes a lot longer as you have to recheck the camber at each length of the toe arm, through a range of movement, so you could just ignore that unless the handling becomes unpredictable)
    • I got adjustable after market rear camber arm to replace the stock one's because got sick of having to buy new rear tyres every few months. Can anyone please let me know what the best adjustment length would be. I don't have the old ones anymore to get measurements. I'm guessing the stock measurement minus a few mm would do it. Please any help on replacing them would be fantastic I've watched the YouTube clips but no-one talks about how long to set the camber arm to.
    • Heh. I copied the link to the video direct, instead of the thread I mentioned. But the video is the main value content anyway. Otherwise, yes, in Europe, surely you'd be expected to buy local. Being whichever flavour of Michelin, Continental or Pirelli suits your usage model.
×
×
  • Create New...