Jump to content
SAU Community

Jun Crank Collar Instructions

klh6686

By klh6686,
in Japan

 Share

Recommended Posts

klh6686 Explorer

klh6686

Posted
Posted

Hey there, a few guys on an american board (nicoclub RB section) were trying to figure this diagram out and i figured someone over here would be able to . basically we all know the basics to install the crank collar we would just like to know jun's exact directions incase there is something they say to do that we overlook. Thanks for your time and we appreciate anything that can be done.

juncrankcollarinstructionsqd6.th.png

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/130430-jun-crank-collar-instructions/
Share on other sites
  • 9 months later...
dodgybrooks Community Regular

dodgybrooks

Posted
Posted

From the top:

Jun's Oil Pump Drive Collar

Thank you for purchasing Jun's GTR parts.

Due to the stock GTR's oil pump drive being insufficient (what's wrong with it?? The Japanese doesn't really say anything, just something about it's engagement/start being too limited), the oil pump's inner gear often fail/fock up.

As a result of this, the oil pump stops pumping and your engine explodes.

Jun's Oil Pump Drive Collar was designed to stop this happening.

Fitting instructions

Take it to a machine shop or an engine specialist and get them to machine up parts shown in the figures below.

Both figures are of the crank shaft ends.

Figure on the left's caption: Crank

Right:Hmmmm, fock knows. Without having looked and played with the parts, this is pretty hard to translate. Goes something like "Rotational stopper bolts (After injection together with machining)"

Warning

The Collar is for race use only, please don't use on public roads.

Wear gloves when handling/installing the collar to prevent burring.

Jun will not be held responsible for damage caused by incorrect installing of the collar.

Jun will not replace/return used parts.

Kinda goes something like that. Hope it helps.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Kapr
      RB20DE NEO smallbox clutch.

      By Kapr · Posted

      For once a good news  It needed to be adjusted by that one nut and it is ok  At least something was easy But thank you very much for help. But a small issue is now(gearbox) that when the car is stationary you can hear "clinking" from gearbox so some of the bearing is 100% not that happy... It goes away once you push clutch so it is 100% gearbox. Just if you know...what that bearing could be? It sounding like "spun bearing" but it is louder.
    • GTSBoy
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Yeah, that's fine**. But the numbers you came up with are just wrong. Try it for yourself. Put in any voltage from the possible range and see what result you get. You get nonsense. ** When I say "fine", I mean, it's still shit. The very simple linear formula (slope & intercept) is shit for a sensor with a non-linear response. This is the curve, from your data above. Look at the CURVE! It's only really linear between about 30 and 90 °C. And if you used only that range to define a curve, it would be great. But you would go more and more wrong as you went to higher temps. And that is why the slope & intercept found when you use 50 and 150 as the end points is so bad halfway between those points. The real curve is a long way below the linear curve which just zips straight between the end points, like this one. You could probably use the same slope and a lower intercept, to move that straight line down, and spread the error out. But you would 5-10°C off in a lot of places. You'd need to say what temperature range you really wanted to be most right - say, 100 to 130, and plop the line closest to teh real curve in that region, which would make it quite wrong down at the lower temperatures. Let me just say that HPTuners are not being realistic in only allowing for a simple linear curve. 
    • Kinkstaah
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      I feel I should re-iterate. The above picture is the only option available in the software and the blurb from HP Tuners I quoted earlier is the only way to add data to it and that's the description they offer as to how to figure it out. The only fields available is the blank box after (Input/ ) and the box right before = Output. Those are the only numbers that can be entered.
    • GTSBoy
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      No, your formula is arse backwards. Mine is totally different to yours, and is the one I said was bang on at 50 and 150. I'll put your data into Excel (actually it already is, chart it and fit a linear fit to it, aiming to make it evenly wrong across the whole span. But not now. Other things to do first.
    • Kinkstaah
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      God damnit. The only option I actually have in the software is the one that is screenshotted. I am glad that I at least got it right... for those two points. Would it actually change anything if I chose/used 80C and 120C as the two points instead? My brain wants to imagine the formula put into HPtuners would be the same equation, otherwise none of this makes sense to me, unless: 1) The formula you put into VCM Scanner/HPTuners is always linear 2) The two points/input pairs are only arbitrary to choose (as the documentation implies) IF the actual scaling of the sensor is linear. then 3) If the scaling is not linear, the two points you choose matter a great deal, because the formula will draw a line between those two points only.
×
×
  • Create New...