Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

fusion as far as im concerned are better than anything at that price, or even slightly over. well i say ANYTHING i guess i havnt heard everything, but theyre sure as hell better than alpine/pioneer/xplod those sort of mainstream brands in the same price range

I used to have a Fusion DVC 15" sub (don't recall model, was around $400 iirc) in an 85L ported box in the boot of my 33. Heaps of bass, was one of the loudest single-sub systems I had personally heard this side of a dedicated SPL car. Was running off a Rockford monoblock amp if it makes a difference.

I have no idea what their mids and tweeters are like, never used them, but their subs definitely seem the goods. Like everyone they no doubt have their good stuff, and their low end stuff. Ask to see demos, or people who would be happy to show you their setup using the components you're looking at, that way you'll know what you're buying.

newbie here. how good are fusion speakers?

Fusion is supposed to be up there with brands such as Alpine, JL audio, Kicker etc

In the end it comes down to what quality you are after I guess...the prices in the brochure are cheap, so its a good buy if you are not too concerned.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah and hence my ghetto way of slamming the brakes, get the ABS to cycle, rebleed seems to be a sensible workaround.
    • Hey! Happy to help. Nothing inherently wrong with the adapter, it's more so with Brett Collins himself. He gave me a lot of incorrect information when I was in contact with him and was extremely rude when I challenged him. He stated I could not use any aftermarket twin plate clutches except for his own, not to use the dush shield, bla bla bla and it was all BS.  Collins stated to cut roughly 14mm's off the housing, I took off 15mm to make room for the dust shield. I would confirm with whatever adapter manufacturer you're using. 
    • There's plenty of OEM steering arms that are bolted on. Not in the same fashion/orientation as that one, to be sure, but still. Examples of what I'm thinking of would use holes like the ones that have the downward facing studs on the GTR uprights (down the bottom end, under the driveshaft opening, near the lower balljoint) and bolt a steering arm on using only 2 bolts that would be somewhat similarly in shear as these you're complainig about. I reckon old Holdens did that, and I've never seen a broken one of those.
    • Let's be honest, most of the people designing parts like the above, aren't engineers. Sometimes they come from disciplines that gives them more qualitative feel for design than quantitive, however, plenty of them have just picked up a license to Fusion and started making things. And that's the honest part about the majority of these guys making parts like that, they don't have huge R&D teams and heaps of time or experience working out the numbers on it. Shit, most smaller teams that do have real engineers still roll with "yeah, it should be okay, and does the job, let's make them and just see"...   The smaller guys like KiwiCNC, aren't the likes of Bosch etc with proper engineering procedures, and oversights, and sign off. As such, it's why they can produce a product to market a lot quicker, but it always comes back to, question it all.   I'm still not a fan of that bolt on piece. Why not just machine it all in one go? With the right design it's possible. The only reason I can see is if they want different heights/length for the tie rod to bolt to. And if they have the cncs themselves,they can easily offer that exact feature, and just machine it all in one go. 
    • The roof is wrapped
×
×
  • Create New...