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Walbro Intank Replacement

taiphan

By taiphan,
in General Maintenance

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taiphan Enthusiast

taiphan

Posted
Posted

hi guys..

another question from the amatuer..

thinking of getting this pump from EBAY..

http://cgi.ebay.com.au/WALBRO-INTANK-REPLA...bayphotohosting

have anyone had this? looks very cheap and no fobbing around like the 044..

reason i think i need a new pump is because i think my std pump is fark or not coping..

the engine struggles if i slamp it especially in low gear above 4 rpm..it kinda jerk then go then jerk again if you know what i mean..

anyone experienced this?

last dyno was 175KW RW.

another reason that i could think of is the timing.. it was advance 25..i tried putting it back at 15 however it just doesn't like it.. starts puffing and shaking like an ashma attack..so advance it about 25 again...

the car now runs really smooth at low rev up to about 3-4K rpm..

what is the freaking problem?

will a pump upgrade fix this?

ps..

what should the boost gauge read at idle? mine is sitting at 20imhg.. or about one bar on the stock guage is that normal? or have i got a leak?

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flagger Collaborator

flagger

Posted
Posted (edited)

first thing i would look at is the AFM. i had similar symptoms to what you described a while back. i even replaced my fuel pump with the same walbro pump in that ebay sale (not a bad idea to replace the old old stock one if your still running that).

after i replaced the pump it was still jerking around, then i finally isolated it to a bunged AFM. bought a 2nd hand off a mate, and its all sweet (except for my current overheating problem :rofl:)

edit: just read about the boost guage reading at idle. it should actually be a negative reading. ie. its creating a vacuum, not boost. mine reads about -20psi on a aftermarket guage.

Edited by flagger
WazR32GTSt Grand Master

WazR32GTSt

Posted
Posted

get your car to a mechanic and get them to put it on a dyno...

you want someone who knows something to point you in the right direction... if it shows up on the dyno that you need a new fuel pump, then by all means that's your problem, but until then, don't go changing things if youi don't know what's going on..

cheers,

Warren

chrissso Proficient

chrissso

Posted
Posted

Yeah, get someone to look at it. It could be so many things...

Also, I've had a walbro that I bought off this forum , and had no problem, however, there are alot of people who have been bellyaching about them because they bought a walbro off ebay and its rubbish. Basicly, there are a lot of fakes, and you want to make sure your getting a genuine item.

On the ebay add, it says in it's rated to 500hp, this is crap. More like 350rwhp.

Base timing is set at 15 from the factory. Are you sure you have it set at 25? souunds high. Get a mechanic to check it if your not sure.

175 kw is not bad. Not bad at all, in non shoot out that is. you haven't specified.

With those power levels, your obviously running more boost. If you have no aftermarket engine management, then you possibly have a case of the computer richening the mixture, as a typical skyline ecu will do when more boost is added. This will cause a misfire which sounds like the problems you describe. There are a whole lot of other reasons why a misfire would happen as well. Plug gap, coil packs, etc. Search for misfire!!

If anything, replacing the fuel pump will make the misfire worse. (not a bad thing if you fuel pump is dodgey, you just need a "safc" or a power fc computer).

Rizzo

Duncan Grand Master

Duncan

Posted
Posted

my experience with a walbro was that it was cheap.

and ran out of fuel at high revs resulting in the motor runing dangerously lean.

why not get an 044 when they are under $300 on the forums?

taiphan Enthusiast

taiphan

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Hi,

Just to clarify..

i am running stock 7 psi boost.. everything is stock part from full 3 inch exhaust, high flow cat, and high flow air filter in stock box..

that's it..

dyno was in shootout mode whatever that mean.

i had it dyno tuned a few months back, the car ran really well afterward and you can really feel the difference. Mechanic said everything was fine.. but now it starts stuttering.. and backfires sometimes if i give it a bit..you can hear a couple of pop out of the exhaust after backing off.

so something must be wrong..checked coil, coil looks brand new no crack or anything. New spark plug at .8.

The only thing i could think of is fuel pump or AFM.

i am starting to mod it anyway so i guess a pump and AFM upgrade won't hurt.

yeah and i agree timing at 25 is very advance but the engine likes it that way.. if i reduce it, it starts to shake and cry. it is a lot happier betwen 20-25, 25 is best. Unless my timing light is out..

I will get it dyno once intercooler and Boost controller is in. Just haven't got the time to get it done.

looking for a R34 SMIC (or equivalent)..like SMIC to keep it stealth and upgrade air intake instead..

thanks for the advise dudes..will update after it's all sorted out.

BH_SLO32 Proficient

BH_SLO32

Posted
Posted

When was the last time you changed your fuel filter?

With respect to the timing it is easy to get a false reading (out by approx 10 degs) if the timing light is hooked up incorrectly. Try placing the induction pickup over all 3 wires on number 1 coil pack.

Hope this helps

Cheers

MerlinTheHapyPig Mentor

MerlinTheHapyPig

Posted
Posted

i've had the same walbro for 2 years almost (GSS-341), and it's never missed a beat, motor is still going after a lot of abuse.

Direct re-wire is a good idea, because the pumps only run at 12v with stock electrics (re-wire will run 13.8-14 volts and it will actually flow what they claim).

A new fuel pump is always a good thing to get on a 10-15 year old car, think of it as a safety mod.

Walbro pumps attracted a poor reputation because there were alot of fake pumps being sold, so be careful of any which are significantly cheaper than the usual price ~$170-180 for gss-341. I think someone was selling fake ones on ebay for around $140-150 for a while.

MerlinTheHapyPig Mentor

MerlinTheHapyPig

Posted
Posted
With respect to the timing it is easy to get a false reading (out by approx 10 degs) if the timing light is hooked up incorrectly. Try placing the induction pickup over all 3 wires on number 1 coil pack.

there is supposidly a loop of wire (i think around the ignition module or coilpack loom) which you use to clip the inductive pickup to when checking timing. I can't say exactly where, but that's what it says in the manual (never had the need to check my timing lol)

JaiJai Proficient

JaiJai

Posted
Posted
get your car to a mechanic and get them to put it on a dyno...

you want someone who knows something to point you in the right direction... if it shows up on the dyno that you need a new fuel pump, then by all means that's your problem, but until then, don't go changing things if youi don't know what's going on..

cheers,

Warren

agreed is good to become best friends with em as well - that way he wont d!ck you around

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