Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Thanks for reading fellow QLD'ers

Who has spacers?

What size are they?

Floaters or actual bolt in ones?

What car is it on?

What is the law in QLD?

I want to buy spacers for my R32 GTR.

Obviously they are pretty exy and i want to get the right size ones.

Can anyone spare a weekend morning or arvo and let me try the spacer on my car? Im looking to buy the bolt on ones that are around 20mm-25mm.

Ill buy you maccas on the way LOL.

  • Replies 59
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

I've got 5mm slip on ones lying around...

Tried the 20mm bolt on ones before...made my steering shake going between 100-110 no matter how many times i tried balancing the wheels...in the end I gave up and bought proper wheels that fit without spacers...

Not recommended from a legal perspective.

N15mo.

im no engineer but from a mechanical view i dont think that spacers will do that to your steering. it would seem like something else in your steering line has worn or not in good condition. Of course as i said im no engineer.

Well I took it in to a few wheel shops for opinions and thats what they told me. and got the wheels balanced a couple of times...when I took the spacers off, no more shakes...

:O

5 and 3mm each side on the front of R33 brakes.. Probably what most would call borderline safe. Not road legal though of course.

slip ons are never going to be perfectly centric to the hub... Nis50 have you got any pics of yours? Mine have a bit of play around the studs but are a light weight design wich I attribute to me having no problems at higher speeds.

:O

5 and 3mm each side on the front of R33 brakes.. Probably what most would call borderline safe. Not road legal though of course.

slip ons are never going to be perfectly centric to the hub... Nis50 have you got any pics of yours? Mine have a bit of play around the studs but are a light weight design wich I attribute to me having no problems at higher speeds.

Nah, I returned them. They were custom made by Chris at wheels revolution...supposedly one of the higher quality ones..I guess they weren't...:)

ive been reading up about spacers too. slip on ones are 'dodgy' depending who you talk to. i wouldnt go any more than 5mm slip on. also you need to watch how much thread you have left. if its too short get longer hub bolts

bolt on tend to be a lot safer in many peoples views. also with any spacer, its best to get one that has a centric hub locater. this will eliminate the shaking provided you had good wheel balance before the spacers.

I've got slip on ones. They ARE hub centrifical. They will be going back on, on the weekend so I'll get some pics etc. But I also have longer studs. Wheel revoultions werent going to make them unless I did have the longer studs, so they do realise there is a safty issue attached.

I tried some "floaters/slip ons" awhile back and they werent very useful. I think im in preference for the Bolt on ones. They look safer as they have implanted studs and they would give you a more central location to the Hub.

The floaters were not very central.

And i cant be stuffed spending more $$$ when its really a cosmetic feature im chasing.

Thanks for reading fellow QLD'ers

Who has spacers?

What size are they?

Floaters or actual bolt in ones?

What car is it on?

What is the law in QLD?

I want to buy spacers for my R32 GTR.

Obviously they are pretty exy and i want to get the right size ones.

Can anyone spare a weekend morning or arvo and let me try the spacer on my car? Im looking to buy the bolt on ones that are around 20mm-25mm.

Ill buy you maccas on the way LOL.

Hrmm.. no offence. but that is like asking who wanted to be shafted next time when being checked for defect... but if you want to check out what spacers will fit or what not, have you called a few tyre places? I know of one on gold coast that has a number of different sizes (saw they had then in the cabinet while I was there last time) and I'm sure they would be happy to find out which fits and what not. But they will say its not street legal. PM me if you like the details of the store.

N15mo.

im no engineer but from a mechanical view i dont think that spacers will do that to your steering. it would seem like something else in your steering line has worn or not in good condition. Of course as i said im no engineer.

i have slip on spacers on my gtr atm.. if they are just put on and not eqully spaced before you tighten the wheel nuts up then it makes your wheels shakes really bad

Slip on ones. As you can see they are machined to suit my wheels and hubs. Fit on perfectly, and were made by a wheel maker so I know they are actually central and all true.

Reason for slip ons is they dont make 10mm bolt ons, that are safe anyway.

post-4806-1156319484.jpg

post-4806-1156319497.jpg

post-4806-1156319518.jpg

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Has equal chance of cleaning an AFM and f**king an AFM. I think you can work out what happened. When the Hitachi ECU sees the AFM die and goes into the associated limp mode, then it will start and run just fine, because it ignores the AFM and just runs on idle maps that will do what it needs to get it going. But there is no proper load signal, so that's about all it can do. My suggestion? If you don't want to go full aftermaket ECU, then get some R35 GTR AFM cards and some housings to put them in, in the stock location, and Nistune the ECU. Better to do a good upgrade than just replace shitty 40 year old tech with the same 40 year old tech.
    • So my car was recently having trouble starting on initial crank, I would need to feather the gas for it to start up but besides that it would start and run fine. So I clicked the idle air control valve (with throttle body cleaner) and cleaned the MAF sensors (with MAF cleaner). The start up issue was fixed and now the car turns over without the assist of the throttle, but the car is in limp mode and wont rev past 2.5k RPM. From what I understand the IACV would not put the car in limp mode, so I am to believe it is the MAF sensors, but it was running fine before and now I cant get it out of limp mode. I cleaned the MAF made sure the o rings were seated properly. Made sure the cables were plugged in properly, the cables also both read the same voltage. Does anybody know why this is or what could be causing this or how to get it out of limp mode?
    • Ooo I might actually come and bring the kids, however will leave the shit box home and take the daily
    • Thanks. Yeah I realised that there's no way I'd be able to cover the holes with the filler, it would just fall through. Thanks again @GTSBoy!
    • That was the reason I asked. If you were going to be fully bodge spec, then that type of filler is the extreme bodge way to fill a large gap. But seeing as you're going to use glass sheet, I would only use that fibre reinforced filler if there are places that need a "bit more" after you've finished laying in the sheet. Which, ideally, you wouldn't. You might use a blob of it underneath the sheet, if you need to provide some support from under to keep the level of your sheet repair up as high as it needs to be, to minimise the amount of filler you need on top. Even though you're going bodge spec here, using glass instead of metal, the same rules apply wrt not having half inch deep filler on the top of the repair. Thick filler always ends up shitting the bed earlier than thin filler.
×
×
  • Create New...