Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Im purchasing a AEM F/IC-8 for $350 USD delivered.

Supplues fuel mapping, injection alterations and ignition timing maps over 21x17

so that will give me heaps of scope to drop in the 480cc injectors and retune, selling the safc/sitc combo afterwards

here comes 260kw

:P

  • 2 weeks later...

Call Mike at M V Automatics in Adelaide , as ask for a price on a shift kit. Also get him to supply a service kit as well.... think its included anyway but best to ask.

Others will have to recommend workshops in your local area to do the job. But most shops could do it easy enough.

Gary

Once again, talk to Mike at M V Auto's in Adelaide :rolleyes: Sounds like you might be well served just calling and telling him what you want to achieve from the car and see what he reccomends. Don't forget to account for going larger later on..(it almost always happens haha)

Do yourself a favour and get a good sized trans oil cooler. I used a davies craig one inline with the stock calsonic one.

Gary

Stan,

Just re-reading your post, and i have to say, i highly doubt you'll get an extra 2-300 rwhp out of it !!!! I estimate a max of about 70 rwhp or 50 rwkw's extra .. So up around 420 rwkw.

I'd be happy to be wrong for sure, but going on the Hp rating of that turbo and working on a conservative (for auto with a medium stall) 15% driveline loss , thats my prediction :rolleyes:

Gary

  • 4 weeks later...

Just got my R31 back from the dyno after tuning - modes so far are...

  • RB25DET
  • Shift kitted & manualised RE4R01
  • Saber FMIC
  • Custom 3" exhaust from turbo to tailpipe with 4" steel cat
  • No name pod filter - AFM removed
  • LinkPLUS
  • 98RON

200.1kw at the tyres - 10psi of boost :cool: bigger injectors and GT3071 coming shortly

  • 1 month later...

Any updates auto guys ? Hows the new housing Peter?

HEY STAN , love the car in the Magazine mate, congrats !!!

My build has stepped up to the next level now. After alot of deliberation, i've decided to go to the rb26 head, and twin turbo's. The 3L bottom end is apparently nearly ready.

Its now costing quite alot ...... its costing me over $2k just to buy all the GTR stuff i need (thanks johno) ! Then the head work and cams will top $5K , so that will happen next year at this rate. I'll be happy to have the bottom end and all parts bar turbo's paid for by chrissy. Aim is 400+rwkw on pump , and 450+rwkw on E85 (Or more likely 60/40 methanol/petrol) .

Going to talk to Mike at MV about a transbrake too... but i think he isn't keen on them in jatco's from memory. Need to discuss getting current 3500 converter dyno'd or tested anyway, as its slipping alot more top end than the 2800, considerably so ....

Also , i will be swapping the LINK G4 plugin (of which i've wired in every extra input available !! haha) over to the LINK G4 EXTREME. Reason being , aside from the extra analogue in's i require, it can drive the low impedance injectors directly with its peak&hold drivers (means it will allow much better control over LARGE injectors (1000cc+) at the low end, idle etc. Also twin knock sensor inputs directly. Extra ignition so no more waste spark needed too.

And i'll build another tech edge wideband controller and run two of them to the link for logging and quicktune !

Ah its going to be fun ! Can't wait to be finally back on the dyno tuning it ..... Anyway, back to lurking.

Gary

hitting the dyno again in 2 weeks time to sort out the rpm-/fuel cut.

seems to be boost related

can see it's losing 15kw at top end, due to the rpm cut

should be seeing right on 250rwkw not 235kw

scan0004.jpg

I have just finished building my new RB30 bottom end, goes in for run in tune next Monday and then will add a heap of boost two weeks after that (assuming I get enough Km's on it). I will definitely post new power + torque with my auto against my old RB25 set up. Will also be interesting to see how my 60ft times work out considering my RB25 wouldnt dip under 2.4 seconds with a 4000rpm stall!

R32 RB20DET, roughly 200kw untuned with these mods

FMIC, RB25 s2 turbo (10psi), nismo 555c, Z32 AFM, GFB BOV, POD, GREDDY E-MANAGE, NOS

Standard auto, 3000rpm stall

Missing mainly in 1st &2nd due to untuned

2nd semi slicks

(Nos was not used at the time)

12.4 @ 104mph

Hey guys, yah it is good to see guys out there who like auto's in their skylines..

I love em, although i have gone through a few.

As we speak, i have a jatco 3spd, transbraked, manulised, blah blah, everything done..

With a 2800 stally and on semi's i managed 11.5@120mph with 271rwkw with a rb25/30 gt35r apexi powerfc, stock as a rock rb30.

I ended up blowing my bottom end and decided to go all out.

I have a ported rb26 head going on(just need cam caps if anyone has any) gonna drop a gt45r on, 1000cc injectors, E85 and so on on a forged bottom end. I had to sort some oil issues, (sump capicity, oil pump and head drain and oil cooler) so hopefully this time i will make in excess of 400rwkw. Though i am thinking of dropping the driveline in a holden tonner, just as it will be a weekender. My R31 will become a more of a family car, but using a Re4r03a tricked up box and a basic turbo setup, should last a while..

Cheers, yah i love 3lt torque!! Though never been in an rb20/25 car, but have heard that it has torque from idle better than the others.

60' 1.788. Not the best launch. It would've been better if i could actually get on boost and better on the converter off the line, but i had to control it as i'd just fry the tyres to the 60' mark with the falken semi's.

I really need some big bags with soft sidewalls and large profile to get proper grip. I'd probably get into the high 1.6's if i could and dip into the tens with that setup, too bad now though..

checkout http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...p?autocom=times

#11.

I was 5 at one stage.

Yeah sounds like you need abit bigger (or smaller size in reality!!) converter to make use of the transbrake.

I just spoke to Mike at MV today about what im doing etc . He said 450rwkw is right on the edge for the 4 speed jatco..... hmmm .... Also, you can get a transbrake for them, however he buys it in from the states (the valvebody), and its fully manualised, running full line pressure always...(ie really drags only type car use) ... about $7-800 odd....... So that put a stop to that plan......, will just have to sort out weak as piss rear brake problem so i can stall up the old fashion way.

He also agreed something sounds wrong with my converter also, as they aim for only about 6-7% slip up top...... i have alot more . So when motor come out, it'll go down. They don't do the converters themselves, they have a contract with a converter shop. not sure which one.

Gary

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I know why it happened and I’m embarrassed to say but I was testing the polarity of one of the led bulb to see which side was positive with a 12v battery and that’s when it decided to fry hoping I didn’t damage anything else
    • I came here to note that is a zener diode too base on the info there. Based on that, I'd also be suspicious that replacing it, and it's likely to do the same. A lot of use cases will see it used as either voltage protection, or to create a cheap but relatively stable fixed voltage supply. That would mean it has seen more voltage than it should, and has gone into voltage melt down. If there is something else in the circuit dumping out higher than it should voltages, that needs to be found too. It's quite likely they're trying to use the Zener to limit the voltage that is hitting through to the transistor beside it, so what ever goes to the zener is likely a signal, and they're using the transistor in that circuit to amplify it. Especially as it seems they've also got a capacitor across the zener. Looks like there is meant to be something "noisy" to that zener, and what ever it was, had a melt down. Looking at that picture, it also looks like there's some solder joints that really need redoing, and it might be worth having the whole board properly inspected.  Unfortunately, without being able to stick a multimeter on it, and start tracing it all out, I'm pretty much at a loss now to help. I don't even believe I have a climate control board from an R33 around here to pull apart and see if any of the circuit appears similar to give some ideas.
    • Nah - but you won't find anything on dismantling the seats in any such thing anyway.
    • Could be. Could also be that they sit around broken more. To be fair, you almost never see one driving around. I see more R chassis GTRs than the Renault ones.
    • Yeah. Nah. This is why I said My bold for my double emphasis. We're not talking about cars tuned to the edge of det here. We're talking about normal cars. Flame propagation speed and the amount of energy required to ignite the fuel are not significant factors when running at 1500-4000 rpm, and medium to light loads, like nearly every car on the road (except twin cab utes which are driven at 6k and 100% load all the time). There is no shortage of ignition energy available in any petrol engine. If there was, we'd all be in deep shit. The calorific value, on a volume basis, is significantly different, between 98 and 91, and that turns up immediately in consumption numbers. You can see the signal easily if you control for the other variables well enough, and/or collect enough stats. As to not seeing any benefit - we had a couple of EF and EL Falcons in the company fleet back in the late 90s and early 2000s. The EEC IV ECU in those things was particularly good at adding in timing as soon as knock headroom improved, which typically came from putting in some 95 or 98. The responsiveness and power improved noticeably, and the fuel consumption dropped considerably, just from going to 95. Less delta from there to 98 - almost not noticeable, compared to the big differences seen between 91 and 95. Way back in the day, when supermarkets first started selling fuel from their own stations, I did thousands of km in FNQ in a small Toyota. I can't remember if it was a Starlet or an early Yaris. Anyway - the supermarket servos were bringing in cheap fuel from Indonesia, and the other servos were still using locally refined gear. The fuel consumption was typically at least 5%, often as much as 8% worse on the Indo shit, presumably because they had a lot more oxygenated component in the brew, and were probably barely meeting the octane spec. Around the same time or maybe a bit later (like 25 years ago), I could tell the difference between Shell 98 and BP 98, and typically preferred to only use Shell then because the Skyline ran so much better on it. Years later I found the realtionship between them had swapped, as a consequence of yet more refinery closures. So I've only used BP 98 since. Although, I must say that I could not fault the odd tank of United 98 that I've run. It's probably the same stuff. It is also very important to remember that these findings are often dependent on region. With most of the refineries in Oz now dead, there's less variability in local stuff, and he majority of our fuels are not even refined here any more anyway. It probably depends more on which SE Asian refinery is currently cheapest to operate.
×
×
  • Create New...