Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Ok...this is goin to be a long post as i dont want to post several little ones :P .

I have a r32 skyline with a rb20DET. I'm wanting a powerful car but i dont want to loose the streetablity. My goal is to get in the 10 sec qtrs :P:(

Does the RB20DET have the potential to get there, and how difficult would it be? I've heard that the quickest rb20det powered r32 in aus is a 10sec car. Have i been misinformed?

Would it be worth my time / money try the RB30 Block / RB25 head conversion into the r32 or just play with the RB20DET motor...keeping in mind i'm wanting to eventually run 10's.

What would be the most cost effecient proccess of going about this.

All input would be appreciated as ive been wondering about this for ages and just curios as to what other people think about it.

Cheers

sLo :D

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/13186-10-second-daily-driver-what-to-do/
Share on other sites

its achiveable but you would have little or no driveabiliity what you need is a package like this.

see below.

the rb 26 is the most cost effective way to get your car into the tens and yes it will cost quite a bit

but its doable

full pics of the car here it is a gtst not a gtr

http://www.meggala.com/ther32hot.htm

ther32turbosfront.jpg

It would be alot easier to go the proven method of suing a 3 Litre bottom end and twin cam head. Don't bother with the RB20 Head go straight for an RB25DET head and this will easily make you get into the ten's with a total standard head and standard bottom end with forgires and balancing. If you need proof VORT N the skyline ran a 10.6 with this setup with just a big turbo, fuel system and other boltons eg. Cooler, plenum.

GR8NES

meggala,

"the rb 26 is the most cost effective way to get your car into the tens and yes it will cost quite a bit but its doable"

RB26 and cost-effective don't go together. you'll be looking at $4-5k alone just to get a long motor plus anything else you would want to do to the engine along with bolt-ons.

slo-32,

the RB20DET is a very good engine when it comes to strength and durability although it wouldn't be the best alternative if you want a streetable '10sec R32' as they aren't the torquiest of engines.

you would be much better off if you went for an RB30/25DET hybrid, it would be a larger capacity engine which will give heaps more usable torque and power, which is perfect for a street car.

Also, it'll cost you less than sourcing a RB26DETT engine along with the associated work fo sprucing itup for 10's.

good luck.

well most rb 25/30's I have heard of that could run into the 10's are 15-20 for the whole setup with the rb 26 for that kind of money you can make 700 hp with out a problem you have a motor that is designed to run that sort of out put and has a lot of little things the rb 25/30 doesnt.

this is some thing I have given a lot of thought to If you can show me a complete package rb 25.30 built that will make 700 hp for under that I"m all ears and yes I'm including engine managent turbo's injectors etc I havent even started on the drive train yet iether but of couse RS500 your talking about a slopomatic as well not a manual :P

didnt sub zero get 2 r 33's with rb 25's in to the ten's the 25/30 has its point but I agree to disagree with you re their suitability for this application

Well all I can say if from what Ive seen is that if VORT N setup ran a 10.6 in an R33 with wheelspin then this should get close to a 10.0 or even 9 in a well setup R32. He is currently selling his setup if you are keen i can ask how much he wants but it is now been rebuilt with ARGO rods and all the rest. It will do a 9 sex pass easy

meggala,

you yourself know that even the RB30ET itself (without the RB25 head) is capable of producing up to 700hp which has been proven by many workshops who are pushing up to and over 400rwkw along with 9-10 sec 1/4 mile times.

Given the advantage of the increased flow of the RB25 head over the SOHC RB30 item, it would be safe to say that it would 'comfortably' make the 700hp with less stress than the RB30ET engine.

My point is that by starting off with a price tag of $4-5k just for sourcing the RB26DETT without even opening it up to strengthen it with forged pistons, etc already extends the budget to your quoted $20k, whereas, ~350rwkw can be produced with the standard spec RB30ET bottom end (with de-comp plate : proof - my friend's engine which has also run a 10.7 with standard EC and micro-fueller) for a much less price tag including a programmable ECU.

how do u figure that a 700hp RB30/25DET engine will cost the same ($15-20k) as a 700hp RB26DETT?

I'm pretty sure the RB26DETT package will cost much more than an RB30/25DET package when starting from scratch (i.e., forged build, including turbo, ECU, manifolds, etc, etc).

the difference in price would be the price you pay to buy the RB26DETT engine in the first place, where the rest of the mods will be the same for both engines.

that's my opinon anyway.

the RB30/25DET conversion would be the most cost effective as no mods are required to fit it in the engine bay.

It will sit onto the factory RB20 engine mounts and it will bolt straight-up to the RB20 gearbox, so i think this is your best option if u want to look at sticking to a budget, otherwise if u have the $$$ to spend, the 2JZ-GTE is a very very nice option.

Originally posted by RS500

the RB30/25DET conversion would be the most cost effective as no mods are required to fit it in the engine bay.

It will sit onto the factory RB20 engine mounts and it will bolt straight-up to the RB20 gearbox, so i think this is your best option if u want to look at sticking to  a budget, otherwise if u have the $$$ to spend, the 2JZ-GTE is a very very nice option.

You want 10sec on a rb20 gearbox? Good luck to you sir!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Drain it. I got official Matic D but you can get whatever is listed as Matic D compatible.
    • Thanks guys,  Yeah I should at least have them dynoed, at least then I know what I've got as a starting point.  The springs on these are hard as rocks. I vaguely remember Russman saying he was going to sell the shocks to me with the rocks fitted, as he was keeping the softer springs for his new setup.  I didn't click at the time but of course that was to let me know the shock/spring wouldn't be matched.  I also remember pricing up new springs around 2014-15, but, house, money etc. it never happened. So that was another reason to have them rebuilt. I have rebuilt the forks on many motorcycles so I think I could handle the seals on these easily enough, but getting the valving right would be a rabbit hole I cbf exploring.  Duncan, interesting to hear RP was tuning these back then. I might give them a call.  In the mean time I have been busy fitting sway bars. The Whiteline rear sway bar I purchased 15 years ago finally got fitted, along with the Whiteline front bar that showed up last week. Just waiting on new links for the front sway bar to finish that off.  And my spare set of advan AVS VS5's should be back from the powder coaters in a Pearl White finish sometime this week, with a set of Hankook RS4's lined up for fitting.  And then I just have all the suspension bushes to do. A comprehensive kit is on the way... Lots to do before the Ararat hill climb. Cheers guys 🍻   
    • Nice car! I’m glad folks in the US have gotten past the FnF and are buying real cool cars like the 260RS I was with a bunch of mates in Portland about a year ago and spotted a green Stagea (just a regular 2.5T AWD) parked about 2 blocks away and they were like “a what?” So I made a bet with them for a round of beers and said “ok one of you run down there and tell me if the steering wheel is on the correct side” 5 mins later the American comes trudging back up the hill and goes “he’s right guys. Ok what beer do you want?”
    • Should replace OR drop the tank, give it's good clean. Might be worth replacing that entire fuel level/pump/cradle thing with this: https://frenchysperformancegarage.com/products/fpg-s13-180sx-r32gtst-single-pump-hanger-kit-billet-hat-6-v3-fpg-089?gQT=2  
    • Thank you so much for the help
×
×
  • Create New...