Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

tr28ns.JPG

HyperGear TR28 Turbocharger. This turbo charger is designed for CA18,SR20, or other 4CYC patrol or diesel engines. It is suitable for up to 220KW applications.

This Turbo will fit on SR20/CA18 stock turbo manifold. You will need 50cm Braided oil line, and a 3inch dump pipe .

This turbo comes with 10PSI actuator and exhaust flange. we can supply all the fitting accessories for $130. We can also have this turbo fitted into your car from $400.

All of our turbochargers come with 6 month / 30,000KM exchange warranty. The Retail price for this turbo is $490 AUD including GST, SAU members will receive 10% discount + $50 ECU remap discount voucher at Dr. Drift. You are welcome to pick it up from our workshop in Melbourne Brunswick or we can send it to any where in Australia for $20. We accept Cash, most of Credit cards (5% bank feed required), COD with deposit, and Money order.

Please contact or email us on 0413457815 / [email protected] for any additional information.

Dyno chart from a SR20VVT S14 Running 17PSI boost pulling 207KW. The car has forged pistons, fuel pump, front mount cooler, side feed injectors, Exhaust, and aftermarket ECU.

tr28.jpg



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yup. You can get creative and make a sort of "bracket" with cable ties. Put 2 around the sender with a third passing underneath them strapped down against the sender. Then that third one is able to be passed through some hole at right angles to the orientation of the sender. Or some variation on the theme. Yes.... ummm, with caveats? I mean, the sender is BSP and you would likely have AN stuff on the hose, so yes, there would be the adapter you mention. But the block end will either be 1/8 NPT if that thread is still OK in there, or you can drill and tap it out to 1/4 BSP or NPT and use appropriate adapter there. As it stands, your mention of 1/8 BSPT male seems... wrong for the 1/8 NPT female it has to go into. The hose will be better, because even with the bush, the mass of the sender will be "hanging" off a hard threaded connection and will add some stress/strain to that. It might fail in the future. The hose eliminates almost all such risk - but adds in several more threaded connections to leak from! It really should be tapered, but it looks very long in that photo with no taper visible. If you have it in hand you should be able to see if it tapered or not. There technically is no possibility of a mechanical seal with a parallel male in a parallel female, so it is hard to believe that it is parallel male, but weirder things have happened. Maybe it's meant to seat on some surface when screwed in on the original installation? Anyway, at that thread size, parallel in parallel, with tape and goop, will seal just fine.
    • How do you propose I cable tie this: To something securely? Is it really just a case of finding a couple of holes and ziptying it there so it never goes flying or starts dangling around, more or less? Then run a 1/8 BSP Female to [hose adapter of choice?/AN?] and then the opposing fitting at the bush-into-oil-block end? being the hose-into-realistically likely a 1/8 BSPT male) Is this going to provide any real benefit over using a stainless/steel 1/4 to 1/8 BSPT reducing bush? I am making the assumption the OEM sender is BSPT not BSPP/BSP
    • I fashioned a ramp out of a couple of pieces of 140x35 lumber, to get the bumper up slightly, and then one of these is what I use
    • I wouldn't worry about dissimilar metal corrosion, should you just buy/make a steel replacement. There will be thread tape and sealant compound between the metals. The few little spots where they touch each other will be deep inside the joint, unable to get wet. And the alloy block is much much larger than a small steel fitting, so there is plenty of "sacrificial" capacity there. Any bush you put in there will be dissimilar anyway. Either steel or brass. Maybe stainless. All of them are different to the other parts in the chain. But what I said above still applies.
    • You are all good then, I didn't realise the port was in a part you can (have!) remove. Just pull the broken part out, clean it and the threads should be fine. Yes, the whole point about remote mounting is it takes almost all of the vibration out via the flexible hose. You just need a convenient chassis point and a cable tie or 3.
×
×
  • Create New...